Ducatiboy stu
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Mattrox said:To me I want it to read like this :
1) Best Practice is:
or
2) Alternatviely (ie if you cbf) you can :
Mattrox said:To me I want it to read like this :
1) Best Practice is:
or
2) Alternatviely (ie if you cbf) you can :
I dont know. Show meMattrox said:. How many times is the advice to pitch yeast cooler than worm up or to pitch at 18 degrees (or fermentation temperature).
That's a little presumptuous!nathan_madness said:1st prize "APA" 2016 ...
Mattrox said:How many "sprinklers" aerate, sprinkle at 18 deg then just leave it to ferment?
All I'm saying is the goal posts are shifting.madpierre06 said:Prior to using liquid yeasts, did this every time and enjoyed the ensuing ale'ish product. Just wondering whether you could also apply that same question to 'sprinkling'? Saw a few sprinklers at the last case swap.
I might just use this post as a typical post regarding pitching yeast.Ducatiboy stu said:I dont know. Show me
And i dont think worms have much place in a fermenter
Given that your advice is not in line with the manufacturer's advice that you quoted in evidence that dry pitching can be best practice it seems a disingenuous contention.Ducatiboy stu said:You want your pitching temp the same as your ferment temp
And youve hit my practice on the head - if dry yeast says to sprinkle is fine, thats what i do. If it says to rehydrate, likwise.Mattrox said:All I'm saying is the goal posts are shifting.
There are instructions about dry yeast from the manufacturer that one can reasonably assume is best practice.
Our resident pot stirrer is claiming that sprinkling is also best practice. But this is the alternative to the 1st option. On top of that the alternative includes sprinkling ABOVE 20 degrees and waiting 30 mins and then stirring the wort.
Now, I'm not saying you can't make good beer by just other methods. And I know lots of people make some really good beer. But this whole thing started as how best to handle dry yeast. One can really only say that the best way is to follow the manufacturer's directions.
Now I know Stu has probably forgotten more about brewing than I will ever learn. Actually I don't think his memory is bad at all. However, he's playing the semantics debate.
Mattrox said:I might just use this post as a typical post regarding pitching yeast.
Given that your advice is not in line with the manufacturer's advice that you quoted in evidence that dry pitching can be best practice it seems a disingenuous contention.
A "I get good results doing this"...... Sure, everyone does things differently. But your recommendations are not what the manufacturer suggests.
Funny how that works B)bradsbrew said:I always just sprinkle dry yeast or direct pitch liquid yeast. If its a bigger beer i use more yeast. If i need a big pitch i will use some yeast cake. Its not best practice but it works for me and has never been the cause of infection. I have had a couple of infections over the years but they were from doing stupid ****.
I think you pitched sufficient.rockeye84 said:The great debate. Sprinkle vs rehydrate vs starter.
Who would have thought my lil angry rant at my beer turning to **** would have caused such a blow out of opinion & experience.
Thanks for all of your input. It's good to hear of other people's success and as in my case misfortune, at least I'm not alone.
Have to say I'm on the "starter" apex of the triangle & will probably go to my grave believing that pitching a starter of heathy yeast that was actively fermenting wort days earlier ***** all over pitching dry or rehydrating..
All stated is on my own personal experience. Countless great beers using starters based on dry and liquid strains, a very memorable few beers where I've pitched dry or rehydrated to end up with beer full of yeasty esters due to yeast stress, under pitch or my own process/sanitation issues.
Which brings me to another point in regards to under pitching, not sure who it was someone mentioned on this post that I may have under pitched, I had 60l of wort @ 1.049 and pitched 3.5pks of fresh/new us05, pkt states "sufficient for 23l of wort" so 3.5pks should be sufficient for 80.5L of wort, do they just lie on the packet? If that's the case, and I need to pitch double what the packet suggests, 6 packs of us05 would cost me $30 at my lhbs, vs 1 pack plus $8 of ldme to make a 5L starter, plus the reassurance of knowing your pitching healthy active yeast, the starter route although extra work and a little more work and stuffing around is a no brainer in my opinion.
Funny that.Nizmoose said:It's so weird I have sprinkled and rehydrated and every time this weird sort of 'beer' product which tasted great was bottled every time. It's almost as if, and wait for it, it doesn't ******* matter. ☺
Why?Mattrox said:Don't do a starter with dry yeast it's counter productive.
Dry yeast is optimised for rehydration and then to pitch into a brew.indica86 said:Why?
About arms length last time I looked.Goid said:How closely are we brewers tasting our resulting beers?
Exactly. If it passes the tongue and we go back for more. Success! :chug:Feldon said:About arms length last time I looked.![]()
Where is the PROOF?Goid said:Science side would be concerned over a couple million of dead yeast.
Have a read of the dry yeast FAQ on HBT complete with references. It's a good read.indica86 said:Where is the PROOF?
Not what I read, what is here, what he said, but actual proof?
A blind tasting revealed that while similar, there were distinct differences between the three samples. All exhibited some degree of “musty” yeast off-aroma, with the smell being strongest in 2U and least prominent in U. 2U also had the highest degree of esters (particularly peach/apricot), and was the only sample to exhibit an acetaldehyde flavor. R was the cleanest overall, with the lowest level of “hot” alcohol character.