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How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle.

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Looks awesome.

Although I`m Wondering if the cheaper style kettles would rust?...just a thought
 
Thats the ticket, Id not been arsed making a new stick for my new(ish) kettle, mostly Ive been just judging it with my thumb, not really been too much under or over but that is just awesome in it's simplicity and why the hell wouldnt ya!!

Nice one
 
Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.

Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.
 
Truman said:
Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.

Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.
or don't use a vessel, put your pot on an accurate scale and know that 1L water is 1kg.
 
That's great! Much nicer than sticking my tape measure in there. Thanks for posting!
 
Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?
 
Truman said:
Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.

Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.
Better still, use an accurate kitchen scale to weigh your water measurements

EDIT too slow, as per edak
 
superstock said:
Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?
I probably wouldn't do this to an SS fermenter but mash tun/kettle should be of no concern
 
superstock said:
Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?
I was wondering would this be detrimental to the chromium layer?
 
Cool idea, just soldered a couple of alligator clips onto a 9VDC regulated power supply I had lying around at work, will give it a shot tonight.

Thanks argon
 
Cool. I should use this method.
 
not sure found this through some google searches.

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/727806/apple-cider-vinegar-and-aluminium-why-it-doesnt-mix

How it lead to backyard chickens I don't know. That's for google to answer.
Starts talking about apple cider but further on down it has a bit of info on vinegars reaction with untreated aluminium. I would think most posts sold for cooing purposed have been anodised. Personally Id steer clear with the aluminium though.
Stainless id be more confident with. We passivate in work using acid quite a bit and never had any problems.
 
I'm very keen to try this but is it SS safe? Last thing I want to do is damage my shiny 50L BIAB vessel !!!
 
if someone in Sydney has the set up im happy to donate some stainless offcut to test on.
 
Yob said:
would Aluminium fare better / worse?
Might be worth testing it out on the lid first.

dave doran said:
not sure found this through some google searches.

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/727806/apple-cider-vinegar-and-aluminium-why-it-doesnt-mix

How it lead to backyard chickens I don't know. That's for google to answer.
Starts talking about apple cider but further on down it has a bit of info on vinegars reaction with untreated aluminium. I would think most posts sold for cooing purposed have been anodised. Personally Id steer clear with the aluminium though.
Stainless id be more confident with. We passivate in work using acid quite a bit and never had any problems.
You are etching, not leaving the vinegar there to form toxins. A good scrub/clean asap with clean water after the exercise and you'd be good to go. A little bit more reading suggests that because aluminium is so reactive, it'll tend to have a layer of aluminium oxide which can protect it from weaker acids.

For piece of mind I'd definitely test on another piece of aluminium first though.
 
PSA: this was posted today: http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/1zhkvn/a_quick_warning_about_etching_yor_stainless_kettle/

saw with great interest the posts here about etching your stainless kettles. Not wanting to blow $100 that I spent on my kettle, I asked my brother-in-law, who happens to be a PhD metallurgist and a 30 year specialist in stainless steel. I asked if the battery and vinegar process could cause problems with corrosion on a kettle. This was his reply:

Excellent question. Are you sure you're not a metallurgist? Anyway, yes, probably these etched areas would be prone to corrosion and (worse) might cause your beer to have a metallic taste for the first post-etching batch or two.

Interesting how a little knowledge can be dangerous. A fascinating little idea about how to ruin the very expensive stainless kettle that I have gone to a lot of trouble to make. [Since his company produces stainless steel]

All is not lost! All we need to do is make sure the etched areas have their corrosion resistance restored! We can easily do this with materials found around the home. What I would suggest is soaking a washcloth in lemon juice, laying it on top of the etchings (maybe by turning it sideways), and getting it hot somehow - say, 180 deg. F or thereabouts, so we don't boil the lemon juice off but we have some impetus for the passivation reaction. I guess you could put it in the oven on "low". An hour or two should do it. If it dries out you could just pour some more lemon juice on it. Lime juice would work of course. Or just plain lemons. Nitric acid is normally used, but who has that laying around? Plus it's dangerous.
 
I have a spare bigw pot I might test this on, then wash and leave filled with water for a week or so
 
Yeah looks like passivating would be a good idea. I have citric acid at home.


"Yes, the dried acid powder is ~100% citric acid anhydrous (dehydrated citric acid). It will work. Make a solution of 100g/L and expose the surface for a minimum of 30 minutes at room temp. If you can heat it past 100F it will work faster. There is no harm in leaving it longer. Be sure the surface is nice and clean before you begin."
 
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