How Crucial Is Fg?

[rodderz]

Gday fellas

The last week I have a coopers Aust Pale Ale fermenting away at 18-22C, tastes ok too when i've been checking the gravity readings.

The OG reading was 1040, now it's down to 1012, temp has remained constant but hasnt moved much off the 1012. It's been 7 days since the brew was mixed (with brew enhancer 2) but i'll leave it and see whether it goes below 10 tomorrow or the weekend.

The book says to have a FG of no less than 1006, ideal 1008...but how crucial is this...would 1012 be ok if it doesnt change?

cheers

Rod

 

[ColdBeerLuke]

Rodderz,
I did the Coopers Pale kit with Brew Enhancer 2 a few months back and finished with an SG of 1011 after 2 weeks ferment.
Coincidentally I have another going at the moment which after a week is at 1012. It won't go much lower than that from previous experience with this yeast (I am using recultured Cooper's yeast)
If you're using the kit yeast it is all but finished ferment after 4 days anyway.
Your 1012 should present no problems.

 

[dreamboat]

1012 is not the worst outcome.... not the best either, but with a kit +pack like you have used, if it won't drop any further at 22C, let it warm a touch, say to 25C for a day or two, if that won't move it, i'd bottle.



dreamboat

 

[rodderz]

Rodderz,
I did the Coopers Pale kit with Brew Enhancer 2 a few months back and finished with an SG of 1011 after 2 weeks ferment.
Coincidentally I have another going at the moment which after a week is at 1012. It won't go much lower than that from previous experience with this yeast (I am using recultured Cooper's yeast)
If you're using the kit yeast it is all but finished ferment after 4 days anyway.
Your 1012 should present no problems.

Thought so, there hasnt been much activity in the fermenter since the bubbles were rising to the surface and the froth cleared up. Didnt seem to be as much airlock bubbling as the lager either, but having said that the fermentation period included quite a few late night booze ups where i wouldnt of noticed it anyway...

I've heard it's one of the better coopers brews to get a good taste out of, i'll be looking foreward to sampling it in a while...just the waiting to drink bit will be the ball tearer

 

[ColdBeerLuke]

First time around it was hard to tell the difference between my brew and the real thing. Mine was actually a bit drier. The real thing had a noticeable sweetness when tasted side by side.
This time I've added 250g liquid malt to give it a bit more maltiness. It still won't be as sweet as the real thing, but I prefer my beers a little drier anyway.
The kit yeast tends to brew a bit drier again, but I was impressed that a simple kit with Coopers brew enhancer got so close.
Great value for the little effort involved.
Enjoy. :chug:

 

[rodderz]

What are everyones thoughts on the coopers carbonation drops also?

I've heard from most people that siphoning the primary brew into a secondary fermenter is better for carbonation...is there a lot of difference and if so, what sort of differences?

 

[Asher]

1012 wont be too bad... With a starting gravity of 1.040, your looking at about a %4ABV beer. The slightly higher FG will add some extra body/aid head etc. IMHO the hardest part of making lower alcohol beers....

I'm not familiar with the contents of the booster you used, but If it contains some malt extract or other less attenuating fermentables this will account for a slightly higher FG than stated on the can......

As long as your happy fermentation has finished I'd bottle/keg as normal and look forward to a much better mid than the cans sitting in the back of my fridge that my mates keep leaving me!!!

Asher for now

 

[sosman]

I've heard from most people that siphoning the primary brew into a secondary fermenter is better for carbonation...is there a lot of difference and if so, what sort of differences?

Siphoning from one container to another will simply drive off some CO2 and make more containers to wash.

If you mean "bulk priming" where in the second container you put all your priming sugar before bottling then that avoids the "oops, did I put two or one in that bottle?" kind of scenario. OTOH, you have to dissolve everything thoroughly while trying to minimise aeration of the beer.

At the end of the day, you need to get the right amount of sugar in each bottle - whichever way works for you.

 

[rodderz]

cheers, while I have the coopers carbonation drops here and no 2nd fermenter i'll try them, cant be too bad

Later on in other brews i'll try other methods & ingredients

 

[Chatty]

Once three consecutive SG readings give the same value the brew is finished.

I have found that bulk priming by simply racking the beer from one fermenter to another is enough for adequate mixing and have found no need to stir. All batches of beer I have bulk primed have had very consistent carbonation. Siphoning, IMHO, would have the same risk of aeration as bulk priming so transfers of beer should be kept to a transfer to secondary and the bulk priming.

Chatty

 

[Backlane Brewery]

You can cheat a bit by racking into a secondary with a sediment reducing tap attached, and bottle from there.
Yes, two fermenters to clean, but not three.
If you use dextrose to bulk prime, it dissolves really easily- just mix 180g or whatever (refer to bulk priming chart posted previously) with a small amount of water, say 500mls, boil, cool, and gently add to the secondary/bottling fermenter. Let it sit for an hour or two to re-settle, then bottle. Voila!

 

[Bilph]

You can cheat a bit by racking into a secondary with a sediment reducing tap attached, and bottle from there.
Yes, two fermenters to clean, but not three.
If you use dextrose to bulk prime, it dissolves really easily- just mix 180g or whatever (refer to bulk priming chart posted previously) with a small amount of water, say 500mls, boil, cool, and gently add to the secondary/bottling fermenter. Let it sit for an hour or two to re-settle, then bottle. Voila!

"refer to bulk priming chart posted previously"
Was this posted on this thread?
I would be interested to view it if you can point me in the right direction.
Thanks

 

[rodderz]

I'de also be interested in a thread that explains how to get the primary brew into the primed fermenter for secondary...but couldnt find a match in the search function

was there a thread on this?

 

[Weizguy]

Bliph,

Couldn't find anything comprehensive here, so I'd suggest Mark Hibberd's Primer on Priming. Not that there's nothing on this forum, but I feel this is more informative. It mentions different priming sugars (sucrose, dextrose, LME and DME), and mentions that the CO2 content of your final beer is dependent on bottling temp as well as priming sugar. Not sure why some people reckon priming depends on FG. This should only matter if the beer is not fully fermented at bottling, or contains lots of dextrins. And U can save the primer to your PC as an html file and view as required.

Rodderz,
Here's a link for you too. You wanted to know about transferring the beer from primary to bottling. Well, Johnno sums it up pretty well, and I would add that you should stir without aerating (about 3 stirs with a spoon that reaches to the bottom of the bottling bucket).

I fill my bottling bucket (fermentor) with water and include my spoon, bottling valve/tube and jiggle-syphon hose (19mm). I give it an egg-cup of cheap bleach and top up with water. Leave 10 min with lid on. Drain and rinse all with hot water twice. No need to fill, just rinse from the bath tap. Oh yeah, and I run some of the bleach solution through the tap and remove/ replace the tap when draining the fermentor, to get the threads clean and sanitised before rinsing.
I weigh the sugar (usually dextrose of DME) and boil the kettle while the fermentor is sitting with the bleach solution. Add 500 ml boiled water to a clean vessel and dissolve the sugar.

Hope this is enough info. If not, PM me and I'll see what else I can tell U.
I've been meaning to work on a spreadsheet/ calculator where you can select different temperatures and desired carbonation levels. This Carbonation Calculator seems to cover it and saves me some work.
Lazy Seth

 

[rodderz]

Thanks Seth

You guys are a wealth of handy info!

Rod