Hop Stabilisation

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I already have an autosyphon that enables me to syphon from the open fermenter to the open keg quite easily.

However, all this oxygen exposure this is what some are suggesting may be my problem that is causing my hop flavours to fall away so quickly!?!?!?!

Then others say no!?!?!?!??!
 
Use a floating dip tube.
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1499220784.923019.jpg
 
You need to buy the appropriate fermenter. Keg king fermentasaurus.
 
So when you do a closed transfer, how do you know when your keg is full? Do you weigh it or just go off your fermenter volume markings? I've been thinking of going this way myself. Aside from your pressure ferments have you noticed an improvement due to closed transfers?
By weight. I set the keg on bathroom scales. Keg typically weigh 5kg when empty so stop filling at 23kg =18lt.
Definitely an improvement in process. Its easier and less stress this way. I've never actually had an infection of any kind even before closed transfer but as for flavour Its hard to tell without judging it against my past brews and I'm getting fussier too I think. Improved as in much faster process too and quicker to get clear beer without using finings.
I also wash yeast and harvest yeast into PET bottles all closed transfer as well. (fill mini keg with boiling water and let cool, transfer some water into kegmenter, shake mix the yeast cake, transfer into PET bottles. I really like the piece of mind of this kind of process. Like the pro's. :cool:
I still get disappointed at loss of hop aroma though but hop flavour seems pretty consistant.
 
I already have an autosyphon that enables me to syphon from the open fermenter to the open keg quite easily.

However, all this oxygen exposure this is what some are suggesting may be my problem that is causing my hop flavours to fall away so quickly!?!?!?!

Then others say no!?!?!?!??!
Oxygen exposure is a factor, even throwing your hops in at the start of the boil exposes the hops to the oxygen in the wort, hence the reason Strong does not put his first hop additions in until 20 minutes before flame out when the oxygen has boiled off.
 
I am syphoning out of my open fermenter into an open keg as the tap pulls through too much crud!

In fact my current IPA with 9g/l of dry hop pellets has totally clogged the tap up and I cannot even take a sample!

I've done a few beers like this... Best result has been by dry hoping multiple times. First one (say a third of total) in primary, but then transfer to another purged fermenter with the remaining two third of the dry hop. Transfer is done via silicone tube, tap to tap so there is no additional oxygen ingress to the target fermenter. I'll purge the headspace again with CO2 before bunging the airlock in.

This will get it off the first lot of hops and yeast cake/trub freeing up those first couple of litres at the bottom of the fermenter for the new lot of hops to settle into. I also tip the fermenter on a angle to keep the tap clear.

After a big long CC at zero,I find that I can package without issue.

Also - If you use cling wrap over the keg mouth a poke a small hole for a transfer hose, you can purge and then fill with minimal O2. Purge again after replacing the lid, and the beer would have picked up very little oxygen, and there won't be any left in the headspace.

YMMV, 2c, yadda yadda, whatever works for you.

Caveat: I probably go thru a lot of CO2. [emoji16]
 
Nice mofox1, complicated, but nice!

I am kegging tomorrow and am planning on syphoning out the top on my open fermenter into a purged and closed keg!

Some have suggested the fermenter should have a bed of CO2 over the liquid so O2 exposure from the open fermenter is much less of of risk than from an open keg?

Thoughts?
 
So after 3 days at 20PSI I am over the moon with my first NEIPA. Massive grapefruit hit from the double dose of dry hopping with Cascade!

I transfered into a purged keg through the liquid out this time, but am still shit scared my big bright flavours are going to disappear too quickly!?!?!?!??!
 
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