High Flow Dry Break Couplings

[Fat Bastard]

G'day.
Currently I'm using these CPC couplers on my plate chiller and they work fine under gravity feed. I'm pretty happy with them in that respect.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140547418120?ss...984.m1497.l2648

Since attempting to use these on the inlet side of a brown pump, I've discovered that they're not all that high flowing, and will need something better. I've got some stainless Nitto couplers at work that look to be less restrictive, but they're as heavy as, and only valved in the female side, so could still potentially spill hot wort on my kitchen floor, which is not good for my domestic happiness.

Is there anything available that'll do the job for me, or will I have to start crimping hoses with multigrips?

Cheers,

FB

 

[seravitae]

Only thing that rings a bell when someone says high-flow and quick disconnect are what I got for my pc water cooling kit:

http://koolance.com/index.php?route=produc...ath=0_62_60_105
not sure how it would handle solids over time as it's not designed for that, but all my koolance quick disconnects work beautifully with water.

 

[Fat Bastard]

Thanks Sera!

I had a squizz at thse Koolance couplings today, and they look very good, except they're Nickel plated Brass. Something like that in S/S would be perfect.

I've borrowed some Nitto couplers similar to these to try out in a dry run.

They look to be higher flowing than the CPC couplers, but they're only valved in the female side and weigh a ton, they're probably like a keg ball lock.

 

[QldKev]

If you want all these anti return valves, you will suffer some restriction.

Maybe rather than spending money on new connections, could a stronger pump could be the go?

 

[Fat Bastard]

Yes, I guess that is the next port of call in this train of thought, although after asking a question about it on here a while back, I was lead to believe that there's almost no advantage to using a March Pump or one of those cheaper mag drive pumps Ross sells in comparison to the little brown jobbie. I guess too, with any 240V pump, I'll run into current draw problems with my 10A wiring in the kitchen.

I may have to look at some options in that direction again though if the little brown won't do the job.

 

[QldKev]

Yes, I guess that is the next port of call in this train of thought, although after asking a question about it on here a while back, I was lead to believe that there's almost no advantage to using a March Pump or one of those cheaper mag drive pumps Ross sells in comparison to the little brown jobbie. I guess too, with any 240V pump, I'll run into current draw problems with my 10A wiring in the kitchen.

I may have to look at some options in that direction again though if the little brown won't do the job.

I think March pump Vs brown pump argument depends on a few things.

IMHO the brown pump is great, the March is the superior pump, but the question is do you need it.

The March pump offers
a hell lot more flow, (from memory about 3x)
more pressure resulting in heaps more flow at a given head (important factor)
magnetically coupled impeller.

The brown pump
is great value for money.
On a small brewery a great way to get a pump into the system to allow heat exchangers and recirc'ing the mash

If you're running a 20L pot for a mash tun, and recircing it then the brown pump will do. A couple of restrictive fittings and depending on the job, the brown pump may not have the grunt for the job. If you are running a full sized system and want a reasonable turn over of wort to assist in the clarification process, I think it's pushing it. In my case with the larger brewery the brown pump, allowing fittings and herms etc, would take over 1/4 an hour just to turn over the volume of the mash tun so would not be good. Imagine the differential temps in the mash bed. The March pump becomes the choice. Have a look through the forum for how many people have even upgraded the 809 for the 815 impeller for even more flow.


QldKev

 

[Fat Bastard]

Thanks Kev,

The brown pump certainly had enough guts to recirc the 36 litre pot BIAB mash with an 8kg grain bill to the point it took nearly 2 hours to drain! But that was once the dry breaks had been removed from the inlet side, and probably had something to do with the fine Swiss Voille from spotlight. I'm making a bag out of more open weave stuff for the next brewday.

Just browsing the Tesco pumps site now and it looks like a polysufone head 12v 809, for $205 which is a lot less than I thought they were, and they appear to flow 4 times more than the brown pump. I didn't realise they did them in 12v, which means it'll work with my controller.

I guess I'll have to do another brew day and if I can't sort it out satisfactorily, I'll probably head down the March Pump route

 

[JaseH]

I guess too, with any 240V pump, I'll run into current draw problems with my 10A wiring in the kitchen.

I run my both my March 819 pump and a 2200W element off a single 10amp outlet at the same time and haven't had any problems.

 

[Fat Bastard]

I run my both my March 819 pump and a 2200W element off a single 10amp outlet at the same time and haven't had any problems.

Good to know. I'm running a 2400w element though, and last brewday I noticed that the pins on the plug were mighty warm after the boil. Warm enough for me to be a little worried about 'em. Been looking at some of the 12v March Pumps today with the 'leccos at work. Pretty pricey, but probably about the same as a bunck of stainless quick connects.

 

[Kai]

G'day.
Currently I'm using these CPC couplers on my plate chiller and they work fine under gravity feed. I'm pretty happy with them in that respect.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140547418120?ss...984.m1497.l2648

Since attempting to use these on the inlet side of a brown pump, I've discovered that they're not all that high flowing, and will need something better. I've got some stainless Nitto couplers at work that look to be less restrictive, but they're as heavy as, and only valved in the female side, so could still potentially spill hot wort on my kitchen floor, which is not good for my domestic happiness.

Is there anything available that'll do the job for me, or will I have to start crimping hoses with multigrips?

Cheers,

FB

Best not to restrict the suction side of your pump, and any check-valved disconnect is going to do that. You could always find any quick disconnect with a fully open bore and check it with a ball valve. It's one extra step on your disconnect (shutting the valve) but your pump will appreciate it. You'll still spill a tiny amount of wort on the kitchen floor sometimes though (the wort in the QD).