squirt in the turns
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Hi folks,
I'm trying to figure out a layout for the HERMS controller I'm about to build, and I'd really appreciate any feedback you guys might have on the design below (especially if it's likely to kill me!). It's an all-electric set up, with a Crown urn (2400w) as the HLT, separate HERMS HEX (using element from a cheap kettle), and 2x2200w elements in the boil kettle. It'll be a 2-tier with the HLT on top, MLT and kettle on the same level below.
I'll be using a March pump to move wort/hot liquor around, and a 12v bilge pump to recirculate ice water through a plate chiller. While chilling, I also use the March pump to recirculate though the plate chiller and whirlpool.
For the 2 PIDs, I've got my eye on the cheap and cheerful Sestos D1S-VR-220 from evilbay. The whole thing will be plugged into 2 separate normal 240v domestic 10a circuits.
I thought about some kind of programmable embedded solution (Arduino or something) but have no experience with those. Maybe a project for later on.
I've tried to meet the following requirements:
1) It should be impossible to overload either of the circuits by having more than one high-wattage element drawing power from each one concurrently.
2) During the mash, it should be possible to power the HLT (to heat sparge water) and HEX elements simultaneously.
3) During the sparge it should be possible to simultaneously control sparge water temp with the HEX and be bringing the runnings up to the boil with one of the kettle elements.
4) When ramping up to the boil, both kettle elements should be on. PID #2 should switch off kettle element #2 (and maybe sound an alarm) just before 100c is reached.
5) When boiling, PID #2 should duty cycle kettle element #2 in order to maintain the boil (kettle element #1 is just plain on).
6) When cooling, PID #2 will shut off both the March pump and coolant pump when the pre-set yeast pitching temperature is reached.
Other notes: Not shown in the diagram are earth connections (obviously everything will be earthed), or the LEDs that will sit across various connections to indicate what is currently "hot".
I've taken a few cues from Wolfy's blog and The Electric Brewery, so credit where it's due. Also, apologies for my awful MS Visio skills (I wanted to attach the Visio file but AHB doesn't seem to allow it).
Thanks in advance!
I'm trying to figure out a layout for the HERMS controller I'm about to build, and I'd really appreciate any feedback you guys might have on the design below (especially if it's likely to kill me!). It's an all-electric set up, with a Crown urn (2400w) as the HLT, separate HERMS HEX (using element from a cheap kettle), and 2x2200w elements in the boil kettle. It'll be a 2-tier with the HLT on top, MLT and kettle on the same level below.
I'll be using a March pump to move wort/hot liquor around, and a 12v bilge pump to recirculate ice water through a plate chiller. While chilling, I also use the March pump to recirculate though the plate chiller and whirlpool.
For the 2 PIDs, I've got my eye on the cheap and cheerful Sestos D1S-VR-220 from evilbay. The whole thing will be plugged into 2 separate normal 240v domestic 10a circuits.
I thought about some kind of programmable embedded solution (Arduino or something) but have no experience with those. Maybe a project for later on.
I've tried to meet the following requirements:
1) It should be impossible to overload either of the circuits by having more than one high-wattage element drawing power from each one concurrently.
2) During the mash, it should be possible to power the HLT (to heat sparge water) and HEX elements simultaneously.
3) During the sparge it should be possible to simultaneously control sparge water temp with the HEX and be bringing the runnings up to the boil with one of the kettle elements.
4) When ramping up to the boil, both kettle elements should be on. PID #2 should switch off kettle element #2 (and maybe sound an alarm) just before 100c is reached.
5) When boiling, PID #2 should duty cycle kettle element #2 in order to maintain the boil (kettle element #1 is just plain on).
6) When cooling, PID #2 will shut off both the March pump and coolant pump when the pre-set yeast pitching temperature is reached.
Other notes: Not shown in the diagram are earth connections (obviously everything will be earthed), or the LEDs that will sit across various connections to indicate what is currently "hot".
I've taken a few cues from Wolfy's blog and The Electric Brewery, so credit where it's due. Also, apologies for my awful MS Visio skills (I wanted to attach the Visio file but AHB doesn't seem to allow it).
Thanks in advance!