Help needed: esky mash tun

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mondestrunken

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Please help.
I'm trying to get the right connections to make an esky mash tun. I have both ends (internal/external) covered.
15mm ID threaded pipe connects the inside and outside, hole drilled, but I'm wondering how to make it properly watertight?
Plans I've seen have one each of rubber & plastic washers on either side to seal.
I haven't been able to find the right bits, and I'm sick of standing in the plumbing aisle of local hardware store. The only aisle I've spent more time in is the goddamn nail/screw/fixing one.
Also, do the washers seal everything properly or is there something like silicone needed.
 
Can you post a up a photo of your progress?
 
Hey Nick i haven't been on the forum for ages but just happened to see your post.
I just used a cheap silicon baking tray to cut out some washers. Plenty water tight.
hope things are well and say hi to Bess and the kids for us
 
Please help.
I'm trying to get the right connections to make an esky mash tun. I have both ends (internal/external) covered.
15mm ID threaded pipe connects the inside and outside, hole drilled, but I'm wondering how to make it properly watertight?
Plans I've seen have one each of rubber & plastic washers on either side to seal.
I haven't been able to find the right bits, and I'm sick of standing in the plumbing aisle of local hardware store. The only aisle I've spent more time in is the goddamn nail/screw/fixing one.
Also, do the washers seal everything properly or is there something like silicone needed.


Go to Keg-king and look up BSP/NPT fittings page 2 and 6 you will find all the fittings you will need to fit out your mash tun and o ring to fit into the recessed nut .Failing that go to the big green shed plumbing isle half inch all thread and flanged nut , big arse washers with home made silicone washers from thr $2 shop
 
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With a plastic esky, that is foam filled I doubt you will be able to tighten up enough to get a reliable seal on washers without crushing the walls together.
If it leaks into the space between the walls into the insulation it can get very messy.
I would/have use a piece if threaded tube, 2 washers and 2 nuts, drill the hole and allow a fair amount of clearance, fill the void around the thread with a good Neutral Cure silicone (a co-polymer is best) get lots of silicone in there, use a probe (chicken skewer...) make sure the silicone is worked well into the thread, and into the foam and the space, gently tighten the nuts, you should get a bit of silicone squeezing out around the washers.
Leave it alone for a couple of days, don't even cleanup any excess silicone - trim that off with a knife when its dry - test that it is watertight.
Really you shouldn't need to tighten much more than finger tight.
Mark
 
pretty much done the same as MHB

threaded rod 1/2"bsp through the outlet with a silicone washer, stainless washer and nut before a 1/2" tap and the same on the inside but instead of a tap you might have a 1/2" female coupler before the fitting to attach the copper manifold

i can show a pic if you want
 
^ in regards to above discussion about double wall compression issues, Unless you've got a really soft esky it shouldn't be an issue, most modern eskies are fine.

I did encounter this though on my SS double wall food warmer (mash vessel) but overcame it by placing a chock inside the wall cavity tk prevent compression. Worked a treat.
 
Thanks everyone.
I've been working on this project each time that I have 10 minutes spare on the weekend, and so far it has taken 6 months.

Neutral Cure silicone
Not sure what this is? I got me some Selley's Knead-It after searching AHB for suitable food-grade silicone sealant. Apparently this stuff is rated for drinking water applications up to 80dC. Is there a better alternative?

Hope to have this baby operational in the near future...
 
I’ve had my esky tun for a few years, the previous was made the same way (and was only replaced because mr stupid had a spac out and threw a shifter at it after failing to fix a leaking keg).

Really is quite simple- all thread through the aperture (drill slightly smaller than the thread) locknut on both sides, silicon washer on the inside (cut from silicon baking dish as above). Minimal compression, no leaks over several years.

Neutral cure silicon should be readily available though and is a good idea to have on hand.
 
Thanks everyone.
I've been working on this project each time that I have 10 minutes spare on the weekend, and so far it has taken 6 months.


Not sure what this is? I got me some Selley's Knead-It after searching AHB for suitable food-grade silicone sealant. Apparently this stuff is rated for drinking water applications up to 80dC. Is there a better alternative?

Hope to have this baby operational in the near future...

The old Selleys knead-it would set like steel, unsure if it's the same now but it was pretty smelly when kneading it together. I would never have guessed it was food grade, it's good stuff to have around tho. Silicone is pretty easily removable compared to it, I have some silicone tape in my brew-house tool-kit and heat resistant silicone. The silicone washers teamed up with flange nuts or flat washers and nuts on the threaded rod should do the job, if it doesn't then try a sealant on the outside ... and if that doesn't work either then maybe have a go at the inside as a last resort, personally I would go back to the fittings and try to work that out before using silicone out of a tube etc.
 
Kason Food Service Silicone
Kason.jpg

Premium grade, fully certified silicone adhesive sealant outperforms cheap hardware store brands
• Waterproof adhesive bonds better than generic sealants; won’t peel, reduces service call-backs for leaks
• Air-cures overnight; tack-free in 15 min
• Standard and high temperature formulas, sealant won’t sag during application. Apply vertically, horizontally or overhead.
• One-piece,300ml. rigid plastic cylinder fits all standard caulking guns.
TEMPERATURE RANGE:
Standard formula is serviceable from -62° to 204° C.


Cost $6 + shipping from CRH Australia: http://www.crh.com.au/kasonsil (or elsewhere)
 
Update on this if anyone's interested...

I finally got to use my esky mash tun for the first time this morning, mashed 6kg to 70% efficiency. I was planning a Helles Bock but I ended up deciding bugger it I'll dilute down to a standard gravity and have more beer!

The setup is: 25L Willow esky. 1/2 inch ball valve, attached to 1/2 inch brass threaded pipe (with plumbers' tape underneath), Next a brass back nut, thread the pipe through the hole I drilled in the esky. On the other side, a small "washer" cut out from a cheapo silicone cake mould as per monkeybusiness's suggestion, another back nut, and finally a polypropylene threaded pipe socket, connecting the threaded pipe to a compression tee, which finally connects to a SS braided ring made from a washing machine hot water hose, as per John Palmer's directions in How to Brew.

I can post some pics if anyone's interested.
 
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