Help Me Disable My Fermenting Fridges Internal Temp Controller

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CamM

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I have an Aldi special wine fridge that I use as a fermenting fridge, it does come with a temperature controller built in, but it's not a wonderful piece of kit. It only does cooling, and it does not remember the set point, instead resetting to 18d if the power is cut off.

I have put an STC-1000 based controller together, however I am looking for some help in getting the internal temp controller by passed. I pulled the "back end" control box off last night (had to buy a new screwdriver! fricken "tamperproof" screws...), and found this inside:

fridge_controller.jpg

I am not a sparky, but from what I can work out, most of what is here is a transformer to power the controller bit up the top of the fridge, which in turn triggers the relay to turn on the compressor when it feels like it.

Leaving the earth in place, is there any reason why I could not just use a terminal block to directly connect the live and neutral from the wall side and compressor side together, hence bypassing the controller completely?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,
Cam
 
As long as the compressor is 240v it would work but If u changed the wiring it would never turn off without the stc
I replaced a broken thermo in a bar fridge by wiring in a stc "inside" the compressor area of the fridge using the steel box thevwiring ran into rather than have it in a jiffy.

Does your fridge have a normal compressor? Some wine ones have something different.
 
Why do you want to disable the controller? Just set it on coolest and plug the fridge into the stc.
 
Why do you want to disable the controller? Just set it on coolest and plug the fridge into the stc.
The problem here is that when the STC cuts the power the fridge controller resets and won't go lower than the preset temp.
I have the same issue using my kegerator. Each time the power is cut it resets to 5C. Fine for fermenting purposes but useless for Cold Conditioning.
The OP mentioned his resets to 18 each time so for anything needing a lowere temp than that it is an issue.
 
Join the 2 neutrals and 2 actives together? The compressor is definitely 240v, yes?
It sounds like the only way you'll easily get below 18 deg on a regular basis.
I'd do it, but then I'm only a lowly apprentice electrician.
 
The problem here is that when the STC cuts the power the fridge controller resets and won't go lower than the preset temp.
I have the same issue using my kegerator. Each time the power is cut it resets to 5C. Fine for fermenting purposes but useless for Cold Conditioning.
The OP mentioned his resets to 18 each time so for anything needing a lowere temp than that it is an issue.

ah, so he did my apologies
 
I also have a wine fridge for fermenting (from Aldi) - but when my STC100 cuts the power it resets in the middle of the temperature range ~12 degrees, so is fine for ale fermenting.

Watching with interest, I'd like to disable the in-built controller as well.
 
The compressor is definitely 240v, yes?
Does your fridge have a normal compressor? Some wine ones have something different.
compressor.jpg

Looks like a normal compressor to me? I have not seen many. Specs say: 220-240V~50Hz 1PH 65W 0.50A.

I replaced a broken thermo in a bar fridge by wiring in a stc "inside" the compressor area of the fridge using the steel box thevwiring ran into rather than have it in a jiffy.
I have since realised that, in theory, I could have replaced the actual inner control panel with the stc-1000, as the inner one looks to be a 1 din device. The problem is it would have taken getting the whole fridge shell off to get to the existing controller! A project for another day.

Looks like jumping the wiring straight through should work fine. Is there any way to check the safety of the modification short of starting it up and touching the frame with the back of my hand?

The compressor says 0.5A on the back, does that mean that the max it will draw is 0.5 amps? I have wired up the STC with "mains voltage" 7 and 10 amp wire from jaycar, so I figure that means there is no risk of fire or anything like that?

Thanks for the help so far!

Edit: compressor specs.
 
I have an Aldi special wine fridge that I use as a fermenting fridge, it does come with a temperature controller built in, but it's not a wonderful piece of kit. It only does cooling, and it does not remember the set point, instead resetting to 18d if the power is cut off.

I have put an STC-1000 based controller together, however I am looking for some help in getting the internal temp controller by passed. I pulled the "back end" control box off last night (had to buy a new screwdriver! fricken "tamperproof" screws...), and found this inside:

View attachment 57981

I am not a sparky, but from what I can work out, most of what is here is a transformer to power the controller bit up the top of the fridge, which in turn triggers the relay to turn on the compressor when it feels like it.

Leaving the earth in place, is there any reason why I could not just use a terminal block to directly connect the live and neutral from the wall side and compressor side together, hence bypassing the controller completely?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,
Cam

and you are asking all these questions. Are you sure you should be doing this??
 
View attachment 57983

Looks like a normal compressor to me? I have not seen many. Specs say: 220-240V~50Hz 1PH 65W 0.50A.


I have since realised that, in theory, I could have replaced the actual inner control panel with the stc-1000, as the inner one looks to be a 1 din device. The problem is it would have taken getting the whole fridge shell off to get to the existing controller! A project for another day.

Looks like jumping the wiring straight through should work fine. Is there any way to check the safety of the modification short of starting it up and touching the frame with the back of my hand?

The compressor says 0.5A on the back, does that mean that the max it will draw is 0.5 amps? I have wired up the STC with "mains voltage" 7 and 10 amp wire from jaycar, so I figure that means there is no risk of fire or anything like that?

Thanks for the help so far!

Edit: compressor specs.

The only risk of fire is is you:

Overload the cable - eg draw 15A through a 5A cable
Disable any overvoltage or thermal cutouts

The STC-1000 is in essence just a switch, just install it in series (inline) with the active (brown) and you should not have an issue

I used to be a sparky in a former life

Jaypes
 
and you are asking all these questions. Are you sure you should be doing this??
I appreciate your concern.

The only risk of fire is is you:

Overload the cable - eg draw 15A through a 5A cable
Disable any overvoltage or thermal cutouts

The STC-1000 is in essence just a switch, just install it in series (inline) with the active (brown) and you should not have an issue

I used to be a sparky in a former life

Jaypes
Thanks Jaypes.

I am confident with my plan at this stage, now off to buy a terminal block.

Cheers
 
Just going to connect brown to brown and blue to blue?

How are you planning to secure it, or will that cable tie be enough you think?

Take a photo with what you come up with.

Cheers.
 
I appreciate your concern.


Thanks Jaypes.

I am confident with my plan at this stage, now off to buy a terminal block.

Cheers

I know of some other sites/forums where they frown sternly upon people doing illegal wiring (anyone who is not properly licensed). If you know of a sparky just get them to validate what you are doing first before plugging it in.

Not to scare you but most home insurers will void all policies if you attempt this sort of thing yourself.

PM me if you are still unsure
 
Not to scare you but most home insurers will void all policies if you attempt this sort of thing yourself.

I did not know that. Changes things slightly. Just read the QLD laws on this, they are a bit draconian. Looks like I'll have to find a licensed sparky to connect 2 wires for me :angry:

Thanks for the help all.
 
I did not know that. Changes things slightly. Just read the QLD laws on this, they are a bit draconian. Looks like I'll have to find a licensed sparky to connect 2 wires for me :angry:

Thanks for the help all.

you can connect the wires yourself but you need a sparky to verify it for you.
 
I did not know that. Changes things slightly. Just read the QLD laws on this, they are a bit draconian. Looks like I'll have to find a licensed sparky to connect 2 wires for me :angry:

Thanks for the help all.

What does QLD law say about putting your own STC-1000 based controller together? Is that OK or are you supposed to have a licensed sparky wire/verify that as well?
 
What does QLD law say about putting your own STC-1000 based controller together? Is that OK or are you supposed to have a licensed sparky wire/verify that as well?

Anything with a voltage over 50vac and 120v ripple free dc needs to be wired and verified by a qualified electrician, but if you were to wire one up and have a sparky check it and be happy with the wiring he could sign it off as his work.
 
Found a fridge repair joint down the road happy to disable the controller for me. I'll follow up with more when the deed is done.
Anything with a voltage over 50vac and 120v ripple free dc needs to be wired and verified by a qualified electrician, but if you were to wire one up and have a sparky check it and be happy with the wiring he could sign it off as his work.
And there is the next challenge, anyone in Brisbane able to do this or recommend someone who does? I'll ask at the fridge joint when I am there.
 
What does QLD law say about putting your own STC-1000 based controller together? Is that OK or are you supposed to have a licensed sparky wire/verify that as well?

All Licensed Electricians have to abide by Australian Standards, there are no state laws

It is a portable appliance and needs to abide by those standards
 
Why not get a refrigeration mech to substitute your setup with a older style thermostat unit.
Saves something going wrong later and someone getting Zapped
 
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