GUTEN

[malt and barley blues]

I dumped the top screen long ago, stopped using the overflow pipe after reading about it in this thread.

 

[Ballaratguy]

I also don’t use the top screen (easier to stir during the mash)
I use a helix coil on the tap so I use the bazooka on the overflow pipe just for insurance
I always seen to get pretty good efficiency
But each to his (or her) own

 

[Cian Doyle]

I don't use the top screen, I would be surprised if many do. Just started eliminating the return pipe from the mash tun simply to make it easier to stir. I would advise using the new style bottom screen though, I managed to dislodge the old screen while stirring.

 

[soulcash]

Hey guys!

Guten 70l is 40,5 cm in diameter, and Brewzilla 65l is 41 cm in diameter. Did somebody try or know if Brewzilla 65l false bottom / pump filter fits Guten 70l?

Thanks!

 

[goatchop41]

Hey guys!

Guten 70l is 40,5 cm in diameter, and Brewzilla 65l is 41 cm in diameter. Did somebody try or know if Brewzilla 65l false bottom / pump filter fits Guten 70l?

Thanks!

Several people have done it - it needs to be cut down to size so that it will fit

 

[awfulknauful]

No top screen here, haven't tried it without the return pipe.Will have to give it a go.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I wouldn't advise anyone who has just got a SVB to remove the return pipe until they get to know their system, and understand why its there, and to be able to control the flow without using the return pipe. As Ballarat Guy says it is there for insurance, and not to be implemented as part of the brewing process.

 

[golfandbrew]

I wouldn't advise anyone who has just got a SVB to remove the return pipe until they get to know their system, and understand why its there, and to be able to control the flow without using the return pipe. As Ballarat Guy says it is there for insurance, and not to be implemented as part of the brewing process.

I think telling a new SVB user to remove the overflow pipe and watch over their mash is much less risky that what many users will do with the return pipe in. I see too many videos and posts where users start their mash then "go make breakfast" or whatever else. Somewhere along the way SVB became this almost set it and forget method. Maybe that's also got something to do with electric brewing. Not sure really. But anything that gives the user the confidence to not to watch what is going on with their brew is far more risky in my opinion.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I think telling a new SVB user to remove the overflow pipe and watch over their mash is much less risky that what many users will do with the return pipe in. I see too many videos and posts where users start their mash then "go make breakfast" or whatever else. Somewhere along the way SVB became this almost set it and forget method. Maybe that's also got something to do with electric brewing. Not sure really. But anything that gives the user the confidence to not to watch what is going on with their brew is far more risky in my opinion.

Probably comes from the BM which doesn't really leave anything for the brewer to do during the mash. But I do think it is better for a new user to understand why the overflow pipe is there. I still had mine in an stirred until I realised I was installing something each brew day which would never fulfill its purpose.

 

[Fro-Daddy]

@CEO Keg King How are the 70L jackets going?

 

[CKK]

@CEO Keg King How are the 70L jackets going?

Expected in on the 21st of this month.

 

[kadmium]

Expected in on the 21st of this month.

Any update on a false bottom for Gutens? I just bought a MK II pump to try and alleviate my whirpooling issues but a false bottom to keep hops and trub away would be great. Just a simple SS mesh with some legs on it. Nothing fancy.

 

[mynameisrodney]

Yes. They will cut in and out more if you have it on a lower wattage - it's just the duty cycle, that's how they work when you run it at a lower wattage than the maximum. Eg. if you run it at half power then it will be on half of the time and off half of the time

I'm looking to buy a 70L Guten. At the moment I dont have a 15A power socket, so was hoping to use one of those amphibian 15A to 10A converters for 6 months or so until I get some renovations done. Based on the info above it sounds like that wont work. If the wattage is just controlled by duty cycle, then as soon as the elements are on the breaker will trip. Can anyone confirm or deny that this is how it works? Or anyone used one of those Amphibian converters with a gutn 70L before?

Also I was trying to find the volume of the recoverable dead space under the malt pipe for the 70L, and the height of hte malt pipe itself. Can anyone help me with those measurements?

Cheers,
Chris

 

[kadmium]

Those amphibians are not really going to do the job to be honest. Not sure if it alters the duty cycle or not, but you will spend a LONG time heating water. My understanding is that a 15amp socket is all that's needed to be replaced. You should be able to just have the socket replaced where you intend to brew from, as most modern domestic circuits will run the 15amp draw (it's a resistive load) its just the socket that has the standard earth pin.

Dead space I'm unsure of sorry.

 

[mynameisrodney]

My house is 40 years old, and the spot where I brew is on the same circuit as a bunch of other GPOs, so I doubt I'll be able to safely just replace the socket. If I want getting renovations done I would put a new circuit in now, but they'll be adding more cable to the same spot in 6 months or so, so no point paying twice.

The way I am currently brewing the slow heating time wont really be an issue for me. I set up the night prior with a timer to start heating water so its ready for 7am. Then I mash in and go to work. Come home about 5:30pm, pull the brew bag and start heating up to boil at about 1000W. ~7:30pm when kids are in bed I start my boil. So my equipment is sitting around for a long time between steps already. I do it this way so I can keep weekends free for family and other hobbies. I'm actually pretty happy with the system I have, but I want to do more double batches and higher gravity beers which is where I struggle.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[kadmium]

My house is 40 years old, and the spot where I brew is on the same circuit as a bunch of other GPOs, so I doubt I'll be able to safely just replace the socket. If I want getting renovations done I would put a new circuit in now, but they'll be adding more cable to the same spot in 6 months or so, so no point paying twice.

The way I am currently brewing the slow heating time wont really be an issue for me. I set up the night prior with a timer to start heating water so its ready for 7am. Then I mash in and go to work. Come home about 5:30pm, pull the brew bag and start heating up to boil at about 1000W. ~7:30pm when kids are in bed I start my boil. So my equipment is sitting around for a long time between steps already. I do it this way so I can keep weekends free for family and other hobbies. I'm actually pretty happy with the system I have, but I want to do more double batches and higher gravity beers which is where I struggle.

Cheers,
Chris

Yeah thats a fair point there. Great idea to mashing all day, why not? Very smart.

Aight, another option would be to run an extension cable from the oven outlet to your brewery if that's possible? Might not have a 15amp circuit there though, but might be lucky?

Otherwise as a last resort yes an amphibian should work as long as the power consumption is not full power less time. I don't think it is, its digitally adjusted but someone with more knowledge could expand further!

 

[mynameisrodney]

Good idea on the oven outlet, I'll see if its possible to string something up that's not too annoying for the wife.

The all day mashes work great but I do get higher attenuation. For most beers this is fine for me, but I recently brewed a NEIPA this way and it was too thin bodied, so I'll go back to a normal mash for this style or others where you want a higher FG.

 

[mynameisrodney]

FYI I got a response from Keg King that the unit will still trip a 10A breaker at low power settings.

 

[Keg King]

Those brewers using the 70L systems - We now have jackets available for them.

https://www.keg-king.com.au/jacket-for-70l-guten-brewery-system.html
Should have standing false bottoms available by about mid to end of November!

 

[Fergy1987]

Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?

 

[Keg King]

Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?

All kind of depends on your batch size, ambient temps, whether or not you use an insulation jacket and mash thickness. You'll find a good spot where you can maintain the temp with the lid on recirculating and then adjust the power. Some brewers do the sacrification rest without recirculating after seating the mash. Most prefer to recirculate though out the process up until preboil.

 

[golfandbrew]

Just wondering what wattage does everyone mash at? I was mashing at 1000 to 1200 and now hear of people mashing at 200w. Thoughts?

Been a while since I checked my settings but I'm pretty sure mine is set at 1200 or 1500. I do heat my strike water at max though. I tried as high as 1800 for the maah and thought that was a bit much. Interested to hear what others are doing.

 

[kadmium]

I heat at 2500w then drop to 1000w unless it's a big grain bill or I'm mashing high. That's using a jacket.

 

[Fro-Daddy]

I put the jacket on my 70L tonight, very snug fit. I had to loosen the recirculation pipe to get it on.
Would be a pain to remove when chilling.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I mash at 1700 watt, checking the temperature coming out of the return pipe it was 2 to 3 C lower than indicated on the screen. Also started checking the temperature against the screen for each brew, and re calibrating, a few brews ago it was out by 3 C the 60 litre Hop Cat was 5 C out. Not a big deal to check when setting up for a brew.
Also secured the bottom screen into position, twice it has lifted, well it won't lift now.

 

[Fro-Daddy]

Do you use the locking screen or the original? The one on the 70L is great.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Do you use the locking screen or the original? The one on the 70L is great.

Locking screen, but I put it in the night before, I usually forget to press it home with the paddle the next day, so I have made a retaining strap to secure it in position. No way it can move now.

 

[Fro-Daddy]

Any updates on the false bottom for the 70L?

 

[Cian Doyle]

Any updates on the false bottom for the 70L?

Was down in Melbourne last week popped into KK yesterday to get some grain, saw them in the shop, the guy serving said they came in Friday.

I picked up these when I was there, sick of cleaning the blow tie so I am going to replace it with one of these. Saves worrying about my pressure gauge too.
Any one else tried them yet, the Blue is 69 kpa Purple 103 kpa or 10 and 15 PSI in the old money.
Going to set them up on my Snubnose.

 

[goatchop41]

Was down in Melbourne last week popped into KK yesterday to get some grain, saw them in the shop, the guy serving said they came in Friday

Unfortunately they're still out of stock on the website...they obviously haven't updated it yet (that's the ones for the 40/50L)