Get into O2 guys, if you're serious about nicer beer

[mofox1]

I unfortunately can't remember the size of the fermenter which they had, might've been pitching into 1000L in a 2000L FV and then dumping another 1000L wort into the FV a couple days later as the brew rig limit was 1000L.Surprisingly this converts to exactly 11.5grams per 23L, so based on that a similar pitching rate to as recommended by Safale on the packet.
They rehydrated too, but that's another debate...

Assuming you're right about the FV fill - It's also double dropping, yet another topic on yeast management

 

[manticle]

Actually drauflassen. Double dropping is different.

 

[Black n Tan]

Back on topic... one pro brewer I was lucky to be there from start to finish on a brew day looked to base pitch rates more on the commercially available yeast pack size, in this case was US05 dry block of 5kg. I unfortunately can't remember the size of the fermenter which they had, might've been pitching into 1000L in a 2000L FV and then dumping another 1000L wort into the FV a couple days later as the brew rig limit was 1000L. Surprisingly this converts to exactly 11.5grams per 23L, so based on that a similar pitching rate to as recommended by Safale on the packet.
They rehydrated too, but that's another debate...

I assume you mean a pack of 500g, not 5kg.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

I assume you mean a pack of 500g, not 5kg.

Ah yeah, 500g! Have edited my post, cheers.

 

[mofox1]

Actually drauflassen. Double dropping is different.

Dammit Manticle!

Of course you are correct, thanks.

For the rest of us plebs: Double drop fermenting actually refers to transferring off primary into a secondary after a short duration (<24hrs), in order to re-oxygenate the wort. Oddly enough, the Brits do this to increase the amount of diacetyl in the finished beer.

Drauflassen, which is what I actually meant and didn't know the word for, is topping up the fermenter with more oxygenated wort (again, similar time period ~24hrs). Drauflassen will allow you to start off with a smaller amount of yeast, proportional to the final ferment volume.

I am now more learned with my words, and will try not to muddle them up the next time!

 

[Stouter]

Got an oxy cylinder on what BOC gas call a 'D' plan. $79/yr. pick up at the start full, then another refill within that first year, then one refill each year from then on.

Maybe a little off topic, but it came up...

They also do C02 on the same plan and pricing. At $79 a cylinder refill, how does this compare to what you guys pay? You'd have to go through more than one each year depending on the size of your kegging set up surely, just wondering if it would be cheaper?

 

[Rocker1986]

I pay about $60 every 10-11 months for a CO2 cylinder swap, 6.8kg size.

 

[peteru]

It costs me $50 to refill both a 2.6kg and a 6.8kg cylinder. I use about 2.5-3kg of CO2 per year, so the CO2 refill cost is less than $15/year.

When the cylinders are due to expire, I'll take them for a swap at LHBS instead of refilling them and will try to get replacements that have a decent amount of time left on them.

 

[Bribie G]

It costs me $50 to refill both a 2.6kg and a 6.8kg cylinder. I use about 2.5-3kg of CO2 per year, so the CO2 refill cost is less than $15/year.

When the cylinders are due to expire, I'll take them for a swap at LHBS instead of refilling them and will try to get replacements that have a decent amount of time left on them.

And how about the Oxygen?

 

[peteru]

Got a Brewman kit. Not many choices there, you buy another bottle for $55 when the first one runs out. I'm not sure how long it will last. It's certainly a lot less economical than CO2, but the usage rate is going to be a lot lower too.

 

[Dave70]

Sorry to flog an already flailed horse, but can anybody save me trawling back through 35 pages and give the time and reg pressure settings (if it indeed matters), or at least ballpark numbers to aerate a standard 23L batch? (2um stone).
happyface.

 

[Black Devil Dog]

Not sure about the pressure reg settings, but I don't think they're that important anyway. I recall Brewman, telling someone, may have actually been you, haha, that as long as the bubbles are just breaking the surface, that's sufficient. Any more than that and you're wasting o2.
I do mine for around 90-120 seconds.

 

[kaiserben]

1.5 L/min flow rate is what's in my memory.
And about 60 seconds for 10 ppm.

But my reg isn't as accurate as that, so ideally I get it so bubbles don't quite, or only just, break the surface. And I do it for just over 60 seconds for a standard beer. (or longer for bigger beers and lagers).

 

[2cranky]

But my reg isn't as accurate as that, so ideally I get it so bubbles don't quite, or only just, break the surface. And I do it for just over 60 seconds for a standard beer. (or longer for bigger beers and lagers).

Same - adjust so bubbles mostly dissipate before the surface, wave it around in an important manner 60-90 seconds

 

[Lyrebird_Cycles]

Oxygen is 1.43 g/l at STP so 1.5 l/min is ~ 2.15 g/min. 2.15 g in 23 litres is 93 mg/l.

The above recommendation therefore includes a loss of almost 90%.

That sounds about right with a standard sinter and around 0.3 m of head. Practice has shown that you need a head of about 6 metres to get < 5% loss with a standard sinter in wine. Wort is probably a little better but should be in the same order of magnitude.

 

[Dave70]

A round of likes for all.
Seems pretty consistent with the recommendations from a Beer and Brewing article.

https://beerandbrewing.com/how-to-inject-pure-oxygen-into-wort/

With low-tech shaking and splashing, there’s no risk of adding too much oxygen to wort, but with a pure gas supply, it’s possible to over-oxygenate, which may or may not cause problems (at the very least, it’s a waste of gas). So set your timer for 60 seconds, dunk the business end of the stone into cool wort, and slowly turn on the regulator until you just start seeing bubbles breach the surface. Start the timer, and when your minute is up, pitch the yeast.

 

[Tony121]

...dunk the business end of the stone into cool wort, and slowly turn on the regulator....

I would recommend against this as it can clog up your stone. Turn gas on before submerging stone to prevent any issues like that. I have set the reg to the (usually) right flow and just turn on and off at the bottle.

 

[Batz]

. So set your timer for 60 seconds, dunk the business end of the stone into cool wort, and slowly turn on the regulator until you just start seeing bubbles breach the surface. Start the timer, and when your minute is up, pitch the yeast.

That's basically how I do it, works well for me.

 

[2cranky]

I would recommend against this as it can clog up your stone. Turn gas on before submerging stone to prevent any issues like that. I have set the reg to the (usually) right flow and just turn on and off at the bottle.

Yeah this is one detail I missed.

1. turn it on
2. dunk, adjust, time
3. remove
4. turn off
5. rinse and purge (turn on to expel any liquid)
6. spray with starsan and air dry

Not nice getting wort up your wand!

 

[Dave70]

Then its settled.
And since Bunnings are charging near $60 for a tiny disposable bottle, I shall be pinching the G size bottle from the trolley in the workshop..