Fullers London Pride

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Brewsmith

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Found this Recipe on the net for copy of Fullers London Pride, is a all grain recipe at the monent only really a extract brewer. So was hoping for some help on what to do to change this, to a extract recipe any help would be great. Cheers Ian.

Ingredients:
Pale Malt 2750 gm (65%)
Crystal malt 430 gm (10%)
Flaked Maize 430gm (10%)
Invert cane suger 640gm (15%)
Target Hops 20g m ( start of boil)
Challenger Hops 20gm (start of boil)
Northdown hops 9gm (last 15 min)
Irish moss 1 tsp (last 15 min)
Ale Yeast was going to use wyeast 1968 fuller ale

Specifics:
OG 1040
FG 1006
Bitterness = 30EBU
Alochol 4.6%

Procedure:
Mash pale, crystal, and flaked maize. Single infusion mash 65c ,90 min. Then Boil 2 hours. Add invert sugar and target hops to boil, then follow schedule listed above.


Ps: why would you boil your wort for 2 hours.
 

Charlie

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Hi Brewsmith,

If you replace the pale ale malt with malt extract (not sure of the conversion factor there) and willing to drop the flaked maize, you don't need to do a mash. The starch in the crystal has already been converted during the kilning process so only needs to be steeped in 65 deg or so water for 20 mins. This cuts out the 90 min mash and you probably won't need to add the irish moss either.

For AG mashing, a long rolling uncovered boil is necessary to kill any wild yeast/bacteria that has made its way into the wort; getting a good alpha acid extraction; forming a good hot break; boil off undesirable compunds; etc.

So I'm thinking something like :

For a 25L batch

1.5kg of light dry malt extract
430g of crystal malt
640g of invert cane sugar

Target Hops 20g m ( start of boil)
Challenger Hops 20gm (start of boil)
Northdown hops 9gm (last 15 min)

Ale Yeast was going to use wyeast 1968 fuller ale

Procedure
1. Bring 1.5 - 2 L of water to around 65 deg to 69 deg and steep the crystal for 20 mins. Drain off crystal through a stainer into the vessel you plan to boil in. Bring another 2 - 3 L of water to around 75 - 78 deg and then run this water over the crystal (sparging the last of the sugar).

2. Fill up your boiling vessel to as close 30L as you can. You can probably get away with an hour boil, but consider the start of the boil when it gets a full rolling boil, not when you turn on the gas/electricity. Boil the hops as per the schedule above and add the extract and sugar at the start also.

3. Once the boil has finished, chill to fermentation temps and pitch the yeast - consider making a nice big starter ...

cheers
 

bconnery

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Hi Brewsmith,

If you replace the pale ale malt with malt extract (not sure of the conversion factor there) and willing to drop the flaked maize, you don't need to do a mash. The starch in the crystal has already been converted during the kilning process so only needs to be steeped in 65 deg or so water for 20 mins. This cuts out the 90 min mash and you probably won't need to add the irish moss either.

For AG mashing, a long rolling uncovered boil is necessary to kill any wild yeast/bacteria that has made its way into the wort; getting a good alpha acid extraction; forming a good hot break; boil off undesirable compunds; etc.

So I'm thinking something like :

For a 25L batch

1.5kg of light dry malt extract
430g of crystal malt
640g of invert cane sugar

Target Hops 20g m ( start of boil)
Challenger Hops 20gm (start of boil)
Northdown hops 9gm (last 15 min)

Ale Yeast was going to use wyeast 1968 fuller ale

Procedure
1. Bring 1.5 - 2 L of water to around 65 deg to 69 deg and steep the crystal for 20 mins. Drain off crystal through a stainer into the vessel you plan to boil in. Bring another 2 - 3 L of water to around 75 - 78 deg and then run this water over the crystal (sparging the last of the sugar).

2. Fill up your boiling vessel to as close 30L as you can. You can probably get away with an hour boil, but consider the start of the boil when it gets a full rolling boil, not when you turn on the gas/electricity. Boil the hops as per the schedule above and add the extract and sugar at the start also.

3. Once the boil has finished, chill to fermentation temps and pitch the yeast - consider making a nice big starter ...

cheers
I'd say that's a pretty good conversion.

Maybe a little carapils or maltodextrin to aid in body and head retention.

A two hour boil may also start to introduce some colour so you may consider it for that reason...
 

Voosher

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Hi Brewsmith,

If you replace the pale ale malt with malt extract (not sure of the conversion factor there) and willing to drop the flaked maize, you don't need to do a mash. The starch in the crystal has already been converted during the kilning process so only needs to be steeped in 65 deg or so water for 20 mins. This cuts out the 90 min mash and you probably won't need to add the irish moss either.
1kg of grain is roughly equivalent to 750g of LME or 600g of DME
I don't know of a good substitute for flaked maize without mashing. It adds a dry sweetness flavour-wise but I've never tried to sub it outside of a mash.


So I'm thinking something like :

For a 25L batch

1.5kg of light dry malt extract
430g of crystal malt
640g of invert cane sugar

Target Hops 20g m ( start of boil)
Challenger Hops 20gm (start of boil)
Northdown hops 9gm (last 15 min)

Ale Yeast was going to use wyeast 1968 fuller ale
About another 200g of DME for 1040 in 25l

Check the AA of the hops as well. 20g each of Target (normally around 10%AA) and Challenger (normally around 7%AA) will give you over 40IBU.

Procedure
1. Bring 1.5 - 2 L of water to around 65 deg to 69 deg and steep the crystal for 20 mins. Drain off crystal through a stainer into the vessel you plan to boil in. Bring another 2 - 3 L of water to around 75 - 78 deg and then run this water over the crystal (sparging the last of the sugar).

2. Fill up your boiling vessel to as close 30L as you can. You can probably get away with an hour boil, but consider the start of the boil when it gets a full rolling boil, not when you turn on the gas/electricity. Boil the hops as per the schedule above and add the extract and sugar at the start also.
No need to boil 30l.
100g of DME per litre of water will give a wort of SG 1040.
You'd only need to boil about 3-4l to get the extraction from the hops and add the rest of the DME at the end of the boil.
Agree that there's no real benefit in a 2 hours boil with an extract recipe.
The liquour from the crystal steeping only needs about a 10m boil for sterilisation.

3. Once the boil has finished, chill to fermentation temps and pitch the yeast - consider making a nice big starter ...

cheers
Cheers to that
:chug:
 

Brewsmith

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Thanks for the Help Charlie, Bconnery, Voosher.

That Recipe Sounds great , will but that down on the weekend , and let you know how it turns out in a few months time. The knowledge on this site is great, plus everyone is happy to help out. Hope you back a winner on the cup.

Cheers Ian. :D
 

Ash in Perth

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9g of hops doesnt not sound like enough to give the same araom of london pride.
 

BottleBitch

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9g of hops doesnt not sound like enough to give the same araom of london pride.



Hi Ash, Man you do know all the big brewing terms, I think that "araom" is right up there with liquor to wort interface, when you are talking the techo talk.


Cheers and Beers

Brett
 

Ash in Perth

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nah thats just bad typing. nothing is as technical as the liquor-shit-wort interface
 

BottleBitch

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nah thats just bad typing. nothing is as technical as the liquor-shit-wort interface

Well techincally Ash its the Liquor-caustic-shit-caustic interface and then its the liquor to wort interface, but I'm sure that you will pick it up some day
 

delboy

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ummmmm sounds ok think i will try that one myself
delboy
brp
 

Dunkel_Boy

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Ahhh, London Pride. I once gave it to a friend in leu of other cold beer. He said "Hmm, tastes like your homebrew." While it may seem like a compliment, I believe it was a comment made out of ignorance.
 

dr K

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If you are mashing then you might want to think about water treatment.
There are plenty of calculators out there on the net to help you.
Trust me, when you see how much volume of salts are required to cahnge Canbeera Water to just about anywhere else than Pilsen..you will freak !!

K
 

Dunkel_Boy

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Ah yes, good point Dr K. Why is it that teh best IPA I made contained Burton Ale yeast and about two tablespoons of Calcium Sulphate (not gypsum)?
 

Stuster

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Gypsum is Calcium Sulphate, DB. :rolleyes:

I like the Burton ale yeast. Nice in porters too.
 

Dunkel_Boy

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Gypsum is Calcium Sulphate, DB. :rolleyes:

I like the Burton ale yeast. Nice in porters too.
True, though there's crushed up rock calcium sulphate (gypsum) and 99.98% hydrated analytical-grade calcium sulphate, which is the stuff I use. Sure, it's not as 'organic' :)D), but I prefer to use it in my beer. :D
 

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