OK so I've just purchased 6 Perlick 525ss taps and now im looking to (attempt to) build a font (might end up buying one depending on cost looking to do something like the "pipeline" font) - so im trying to decide between SnapLock / FatLok or PushLock fittings. So if you guys could fill me in with the pros and cons for each and the (approx) cost for complete fitting assemblies (ie http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=732) and where to go shopping for them?
Font Disconnects - Which Ones?
- Thread starter komodo
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
This guy shows great imagination and his site is well worth looking at:
http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Custom-...r-and-Kegerator
On the bottom of the page he has a pdf download listing the parts and prices(US) he paid approx 12 months ago :icon_cheers: .
lefty2446
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 14/8/05
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
Go with Snaplock/Fatlock or Lockin.
Lockin is way more common up here in Brisbane, Snapclock/Fatlock in Sydney. It really depends on what the breweries specifiy in your area.Much more common.
The Pushloc receiver on the fount has a grub screw that tends to come loose, the fitting rotates and can crack the riser line inside the fount. You won't know this until you see all the 'extra' glycol on the floor.
All the other fittings tend to use a 3/4" bsp thread which makes finding compatible founts easier.
Personally I like the pipeline founts as well, they look snazzy. Do try and support the far end adequately as when the are full of glycol and staff are leaning on them I have seen the lower flooding kit snap out of the fount - was not cheap to repair.
Good luck, I hope you find what your after.
Lefty
I am in exactly the same boat.
I have 4 perlick taps and really like the pipeline font as well.
I have access to a very good stainless welder at work and plan the get him to make one up for me.
what fittings should be put on the pipe? 3/4inch BSP?
Has anyone got some pictures of the ends of the pipe, so I can see how the glycol and beer lines feed into the pipe?
I have 4 perlick taps and really like the pipeline font as well.
I have access to a very good stainless welder at work and plan the get him to make one up for me.
what fittings should be put on the pipe? 3/4inch BSP?
Has anyone got some pictures of the ends of the pipe, so I can see how the glycol and beer lines feed into the pipe?
Ok so im going to do a bit more research into contacts for obtaining either the Snaplock/Fatlock or Lockin disconnects (can someone show me a lockin? I cant seem to find an image of one?)
But for now I'm pricing up parts to build the font. I think for now I'll just have it built as an air chilled font as I believe with the desing of the "pipeline" font it shouldnt be too hard to retrofit flooding at a latter date should I decide to go that way (as much as I'd love to do it now I'd like to just get it up and running ASAP LOL)
Now I want to confirm that these disconnects as standard use a 3/4" BSP fitting NOT a metric fitting? The reason I ask is because Geordi stainless dont list a 3/4" or 19.05mm BSP socket only an 18mm which im assuming is not the correct fitting and blackwoods who do have a 3/4" dont have one with a smooth finish.
Any other suggestions for where to look for the (BSP socket) fittings?
EDIT: and to sound like a parrot I need this question answered also - although I think seeing the bottom of any flooded font should answer this question
I'm assuming the way a flooded font works is that the entry point for the cooling solution is low in the leg of the font and the drain point is at the highest point in the font? either that or the drain point is severly flow restricted ?
But for now I'm pricing up parts to build the font. I think for now I'll just have it built as an air chilled font as I believe with the desing of the "pipeline" font it shouldnt be too hard to retrofit flooding at a latter date should I decide to go that way (as much as I'd love to do it now I'd like to just get it up and running ASAP LOL)
Now I want to confirm that these disconnects as standard use a 3/4" BSP fitting NOT a metric fitting? The reason I ask is because Geordi stainless dont list a 3/4" or 19.05mm BSP socket only an 18mm which im assuming is not the correct fitting and blackwoods who do have a 3/4" dont have one with a smooth finish.
Any other suggestions for where to look for the (BSP socket) fittings?
EDIT: and to sound like a parrot I need this question answered also - although I think seeing the bottom of any flooded font should answer this question
I'm assuming the way a flooded font works is that the entry point for the cooling solution is low in the leg of the font and the drain point is at the highest point in the font? either that or the drain point is severly flow restricted ?
lefty2446
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 14/8/05
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
http://www.andale.com.au/product_details.a...=Tap%20Adaptors
I'm not an expert in such matters but when I purchase water fittings 3/4" is usually referred to as 20mm.
Correct, but you have it bass-ackwards. The glycol is fed into the top of the fount with a 1/2" riser (Possibly T'd) with the outlet down the bottom. This way you have all your pretty ice up the top and not down the bottom. Doing it this way you them require a screw hole to bleed out the air. If you don't bleed out the air it dosen't matter, it will dissapear eventually.
Edit: forgot about your flooding kit.
The bottom of the fount has clamps that swell a rubber bush to fit to the line to allow a water tight seal.
Can post pics tonight if you need them.
Lefty
I was thinking a 100mm diameter stainless pipe bent to the shape with a thread cut on each end.
One cap has 4 (or how ever many taps you want) through bulkhead nipples welded in plus an extra one for the glycol drain
other cap has two bulkhead nipples welded in for a glycol drain and glycol deliver
mine is to go on the lid of a chest freezer so,
I could geta flange welded on the pipe higher up, so the lower part of the pipe can feed throught the lid into freezer.
distance between flange and end of pipe = thickness of freezer lid
I could have a small diameter SS pipe inside the font to deliver the cold glycol to the tap area.
hmm I think it is time for a drawing.
One cap has 4 (or how ever many taps you want) through bulkhead nipples welded in plus an extra one for the glycol drain
other cap has two bulkhead nipples welded in for a glycol drain and glycol deliver
mine is to go on the lid of a chest freezer so,
I could geta flange welded on the pipe higher up, so the lower part of the pipe can feed throught the lid into freezer.
distance between flange and end of pipe = thickness of freezer lid
I could have a small diameter SS pipe inside the font to deliver the cold glycol to the tap area.
hmm I think it is time for a drawing.
Kirem after reading that a few times I now understand.
Lefty photos (particularly if you could get a close up) would be most appreciated. And thank for the link - seems I was a little blind when I looked at that site previously
Lefty photos (particularly if you could get a close up) would be most appreciated. And thank for the link - seems I was a little blind when I looked at that site previously
Im assuming this is how it ought be?
View attachment Font_rough_design.pdf
PS hope that sketch makes sence.
View attachment Font_rough_design.pdf
PS hope that sketch makes sence.
WOW, thanks!
the only change would be the gylcol drains are only external nipples
the only things left to decide on;
Are the tap spacings (I only have 4 taps)
The pipe diameter
I was thinking of using the standard flexible plastic beer pipe for the beer lines, but there really is no reason that they couldn't be stainless as well. Any thoughts on that?
mika
Lupulin Threshold Shift Victim
- Joined
- 6/11/05
- Messages
- 2,990
- Reaction score
- 6
Ok, call me dense. But how does the beerline attach to the fitting that the snaplock adaptor screws into ? I've never seen a font in pieces.
Presumably it's gotta be some sort of screw fitting with a hosetail on the back.
From my interpretation Komodo's current detail doesn't allow you to service or replace the hose onto the bulkheads at the bottom of the font, unless that bottom plate isn't meant to be welded ?
Presumably it's gotta be some sort of screw fitting with a hosetail on the back.
From my interpretation Komodo's current detail doesn't allow you to service or replace the hose onto the bulkheads at the bottom of the font, unless that bottom plate isn't meant to be welded ?
the bottom would have to be removable - either a double base plate one as a fixing poing one as a seal plate or have a base plate thats machined to have a seal plate with the barbs fixed in sort of a _====_ type fashion (if that makese sence - i might sketch it up if i get 2 minutes to scratch my ass sketch something)
And kirem would have his verticals extend past the "base plate" or rather fixing point so his seal plate could be as the bottom of the verticals
As for using stainless - no flexibility. if you get a leak or want to change to a different fitting you cant (at least not easily) I think beer line is the way to go you can replace the few meters cheaply - it gives you flexilbility
Edit : Try this sketch - might have to scroll - my acad skills are better than my PDF creating skills apparently LOL
View attachment font_base.pdf
And kirem would have his verticals extend past the "base plate" or rather fixing point so his seal plate could be as the bottom of the verticals
As for using stainless - no flexibility. if you get a leak or want to change to a different fitting you cant (at least not easily) I think beer line is the way to go you can replace the few meters cheaply - it gives you flexilbility
Edit : Try this sketch - might have to scroll - my acad skills are better than my PDF creating skills apparently LOL
View attachment font_base.pdf
lefty2446
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 14/8/05
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
Ok here's the making of one of my largest posts.
I have 2 founts here, both Andale type. The Hoshizaki Lancer way of doing things is simmilar.
This first pic shows a brumby tap, lockin shank and adaptor (This system is very popular in QLD)
And assembled...
Now we get into the business end of the fount, Note the riser lines are a single line from top to bottom and are usually approx 2m long.
Top of fount assembled.
And with lockin adaptor inserted.
Assembled complete with adaptor, shank and tap.
Adaptor and tap with shank. Normally the adaptor remains on the fount and is only removed if there is a problem. The tap and shank are removed to rekit the tap when the O-rings wear out.
Retaining nut removed from fount. This nut is usually where the tap decals are mounted. If the tap decals are overtightened regularly then this nut can crack, making for an interesting glycol bath for the bar staff.
Adaptor, retaining nut and insert. Note the locating pins on the insert. This enables rotational force to be applied to the insert. The large black O-ring is what seals the glycol side.
Rear of insert showing riser line attachment. This one used an ferule insert that is pressed into the end of the riser line then the retaining coller is tightened up forming a seal on the end of the beer line. Commonly the riser line will attach to a John Guest fitting. Andale seems to love these ferule fittings. They do notthing but piss me off, dificult to work with.
Inside of the bare fount with locating pins that match the insert.
Empty fount, showing all the holes with no riser lines or glycol.
Another mic of the same thing...
From the top of a T'bar fount back to the bottom end.
Side on view of bare fount with no insert or retaining nut.
I hope that this post has answered more questions than it raises but there you go.
Lefty
I have 2 founts here, both Andale type. The Hoshizaki Lancer way of doing things is simmilar.
This first pic shows a brumby tap, lockin shank and adaptor (This system is very popular in QLD)
And assembled...
Now we get into the business end of the fount, Note the riser lines are a single line from top to bottom and are usually approx 2m long.
Top of fount assembled.
And with lockin adaptor inserted.
Assembled complete with adaptor, shank and tap.
Adaptor and tap with shank. Normally the adaptor remains on the fount and is only removed if there is a problem. The tap and shank are removed to rekit the tap when the O-rings wear out.
Retaining nut removed from fount. This nut is usually where the tap decals are mounted. If the tap decals are overtightened regularly then this nut can crack, making for an interesting glycol bath for the bar staff.
Adaptor, retaining nut and insert. Note the locating pins on the insert. This enables rotational force to be applied to the insert. The large black O-ring is what seals the glycol side.
Rear of insert showing riser line attachment. This one used an ferule insert that is pressed into the end of the riser line then the retaining coller is tightened up forming a seal on the end of the beer line. Commonly the riser line will attach to a John Guest fitting. Andale seems to love these ferule fittings. They do notthing but piss me off, dificult to work with.
Inside of the bare fount with locating pins that match the insert.
Empty fount, showing all the holes with no riser lines or glycol.
Another mic of the same thing...
From the top of a T'bar fount back to the bottom end.
Side on view of bare fount with no insert or retaining nut.
I hope that this post has answered more questions than it raises but there you go.
Lefty
lefty2446
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 14/8/05
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
Your welcome!
Those inserts nuts and bits are what goes into increasing the cost of the fount...
Adrian
how do you get beer line straight into the tap?
Man I shouldn't be allowed to think. I had a thought last night...
If I was to put a PVC pipe "sleeve" inside and run the beer lines in that I could flood that continuously with a glycol mix at the same temp as the fridge. Then when I wanted to entertain (or just show off) I could run a glycol mix at - 20 degrees to freeze the font up because the beer lines are in a PVC sleeve with glycol at a warmer temp the beer lines shouldnt freeze up?I would just need to run T pieces into the BSP socket. Yep probably wont work but im gunna have to give it a go now I've though about it.
Man I shouldn't be allowed to think. I had a thought last night...
If I was to put a PVC pipe "sleeve" inside and run the beer lines in that I could flood that continuously with a glycol mix at the same temp as the fridge. Then when I wanted to entertain (or just show off) I could run a glycol mix at - 20 degrees to freeze the font up because the beer lines are in a PVC sleeve with glycol at a warmer temp the beer lines shouldnt freeze up?I would just need to run T pieces into the BSP socket. Yep probably wont work but im gunna have to give it a go now I've though about it.
From what I can gather the line travels inside the font and connects to a fitting inside the font that has a thread on the outside of the font that you normally connect a disconnect to.
So if you screw a tap directly onto the font (rather than a disconnect) then beer is then fed straight into the tap, ie screw directly into the insert in this picture.
View attachment 32117
I would think you would need something like this to connect the beer line to?
But how do you get that into your font?
Unless you had some kind of union that was male 5/8" female 5/8" welded to the font - but then how do you connect the hosetail?
I don't think the tap would screw into the insert - you would need some form of bushing?
But how do you get that into your font?
Unless you had some kind of union that was male 5/8" female 5/8" welded to the font - but then how do you connect the hosetail?
I don't think the tap would screw into the insert - you would need some form of bushing?
lefty2446
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 14/8/05
- Messages
- 179
- Reaction score
- 0
In a commercial installation the tap adaptor/shank combo allows you to remove the tap from a 'live' beer line and not wear a keg of beer. Not a real problem in a home setup though. So what you really need is a special shank that allows a JG fitting in the back, screw the tap onto that and is removable somehow.
(Throwing ideas around)
Adrian
Similar threads
