First timer need help setting fermentation fridge up correctly

[Gloveski]

Firstly sorry If I have posted this in the wrong forum

Hi all just in the process of setting up all my gear before I jump into having a go at brewing my first beers

My set up will be a large fridge suitable for two fv's on the go at once brewing the same beer type.
I have a inkbird temp controller on it's way to control heating and cooling for cold crashing etc.

My main question would one heating source be enough for two fv's in the fridge evironment.
Was thinking of using a heat belt or something simular and run it up the side of the fridge to even out heat distribution, and using the temp probe one one fermenter while also keeping an eye on the temp on the other fv.
Would this be suitable or would I need a heat source for both fv ?

Any help would be appreciated as I would rather have all the gear ready to go before I start by first few brew's

Thanks in advance
Gloveski

 

[timmi9191]

One heat source is fine.

I use a 30watt reptile heating lamp in the bottom of the fridge. I know others that have a heat mat in the bottom or a belt along the side like you suggest.

Temp probe on one fv should also be fine. I place the probe between the two fv pushed close together.

 

[Gloveski]

One heat source is fine.

I use a 30watt reptile heating lamp in the bottom of the fridge. I know others that have a heat mat in the bottom or a belt along the side like you suggest.

Temp probe on one fv should also be fine. I place the probe between the two fv pushed close together.

thanks for the quick reply , didnt think of putting both fv side by side , the fridge I am picking up should be wide enough to enable this , then I will most likely just use a heat mat

 

[bradsbrew]

You are better of with the heat lamp or something that is going to control the temp of the environment as opposed to a mat that the fermenter sits on. You can also install a computer fan to circulate the warm/cold air.

Cheers

 

[Gigantorus]

I would disagree with putting a lamp in your fermentation fridge. One thing that beer does not like is LIGHT.

You would best consider an alternate source of heat that does not involve light.

 

[timmi9191]

I would disagree with putting a lamp in your fermentation fridge. One thing that beer does not like is LIGHT.

You would best consider an alternate source of heat that does not involve light.

My reptile lamp is ceramic and doesnt emit light.

Other reptile lamps are infrared. Not that i use one but id be very surprised If you could show me any negative effect infrared has on fermenting wort

 

[bradsbrew]

I would disagree with putting a lamp in your fermentation fridge. One thing that beer does not like is LIGHT.

You would best consider an alternate source of heat that does not involve light.

Yes. When I say heat lamp, I mean what I have which is a small lamp with a small terracota pot upside down over the bulb. This heats the pot without the light.

Cheers

 

[Droopy Brew]

I do my best to keep light away from my beer but it is my understanding that it is only the UV wavelengths that affect the beer. Very little UV in most houshold lights.

 

[Gloveski]

I have a small heating fan that I might use then as it can be run on low, also can be used as a fan only presume you would still want air to circulate when cold crashing aswell?

 

[timmi9191]

Becareful of the heater, even on low, blowing hot air directly onto the plastic interior of your fridge. At best it will melt at worst woooshka

 

[Gigantorus]

[SIZE=12pt]Some interesting facts on what makes "shunked" beer…[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]http://www.livescience.com/33718-beer-skunks.html[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/skunked_beer.html[/SIZE]

 

[timmi9191]

[SIZE=12pt]Some interesting facts on what makes "shunked" beer…[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]http://www.livescience.com/33718-beer-skunks.html[/SIZE]

[SIZE=12pt]http://www.professorbeer.com/articles/skunked_beer.html[/SIZE]

" In the real world, where beers aren’t bombarded by lasers, light-struck beer is due to visible light between 400-500 nanometers in wavelength (the blue end of the spectrum) and ultraviolet light, which has a wavelength of less than 400 nm."

"Blue light, and to a lesser extent green and a bit of near ultraviolet are the most damaging to beer."

Your links appear to confirm the infrared will do SFA. Not to mention if the FV is stainless, the point is irrelevant. The opaque nature of plastic FV would also make the transmission on damaging light a moot point.

 

[Gloveski]

Thanks all for replies some food for thought

 

[mtb]

What's the ambient temp of the area your fridge sits in?

A quick search on BOM says that Hobart is getting to ~11C at night, high 20's during the day. I reckon you don't even need to heat at this time of year. Fermentation will produce enough heat on its own, and the fridge will insulate your FVs overnight so they don't lose heat.

 

[Gloveski]

Yeah I live in shearwater , north west tassie fridge will be in carport at this stage .Most likely won't need heater for the time being but just getting fully kitted out as can get very cold in winter

 

[Gloveski]

Well I am up and running thanks for everyone's ideas and help.

Came across an old condensation heater that is 40w that will do fine for a heating source added a fan asell to keep the air circulating.
Temp controlled by an inkbird controller.

First two brews on the go , just extraxt kits initially to cut my teeth on and get used to the hole fermentation side , looking to go grain down the track.............happy days

 

[Bribie G]

Yes. When I say heat lamp, I mean what I have which is a small lamp with a small terracota pot upside down over the bulb. This heats the pot without the light.

Cheers

Back in the days of incandescent bulbs this was a good method. However with lights moving to low heat emitting types such as LED and incandescents no longer sold............

 

[Vini2ton]

An incandescent bulb and a tea-chest. "What's a tea-chest ?" I hear them say.