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Close to 1.010 would be better, try and get it a little warmer to finish off!
 
NewtownClown said:
Dry yeast consists of live cells encapsulated in growth media (including dead cells) and are best activated or proofed with hydration in warm water (27c +/-3c. for US-05).
They can also be sprinkled directly on the surface of the wort then stirred in after 15-30 mins but you will lose a percentage of yeast with this method.
Where did you get this reference from?
Contradicts the instructions from Saf.
Or Am I missing something?
 
Direct quote from Fermentis PDF for US-05

Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°c ± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes.
Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.
Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle
the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the
wort using aeration or by wort


http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf
 
Good on you Paul, Thank you for that.

Cheers Steve
 
NewtownClown said:
Proving yeast and making a starter are two different processes.
The former is hydrating active dry yeast whilst the latter is propagating yeast in order to have a high enough cell count to inoculate a larger volume of wort.


Splitting hairs is to say that hydrating yeast is just with water.
Starting yeast is with wort and a visual observation of the activity of the yeasts reaction with the sugars etc. - Proving the yeast
Whatever!. If it ferments well then it is well. :chug:
 
Hi James

The Coopers Original Series Lager and BE1 (600g dextrose + 400g maltodextrin) that comes with the DIY kit is best described as a "proof of concept" beer. It includes an ale yeast, and the result is very bland and uninspiring. The average of dozens of batches from different people in 23 litres is:
OG 1.036 to 1.038
FG 1.014 to 1.016 (due to the maltodextrin)
ABV 3.6 to 3.8%

The result is drinkable but hardly exciting. You will get better results if you try some of the recipes on the Coopers website or here on AHB.

Once you start making hop, malt & grain additions it will get better, but most people progress to beers they are much prouder of using the recipes on this (AHB) and the Coopers websites. Cheers.
 
Pleased to say I kegged my brew yesterday. FG 1014 after 14 days. I bulk primed with 170 grams of dextrose and have it in temp controlled fridge @ 18 degrees for the next 2 weeks. Hope it turns out ok.
 
170gms of dex in the keg?i think you may be deagssing rhis one for a while
.i used 50gns as a general rule if thumb and still end up degassing sometimes. (ales tho)
What made you use that much dex,did u use a calculator to work out how much to add?
 
Kit calls for 8 grams per litre so may be slightly over carbed but not too much?
 
I believe 8gms /l is for bottling unless it specifically said kegging. Just used my beersmith app it said 68.5gms @ 18.c for 23litres thats if your kwg can even hold 23l im guessing its a 19l corny
 
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1432360862.199388.jpg
Well first pour last night I was quite surprised. Beer was crystal clear and tasted great.
 

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