First attempt at a Russian Imperial Stout - questions and advice

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Muz

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So, I wanted to brew a few different things before the world ends. I've always wanted to brew an RIS but haven't got around to in until now.

I'm using as a base the Brooklyn Brewery's Black Ops Clone recipe from BYO:

https://byo.com/article/the-king-of-stouts/

Questions:

1) So the recipe recommends a few yeasts. The first one, which I've used often, is Wyeast 1968. When building this in beersmith the forecast FG raises from 1.018 to 1.032 when I add this yeast. This changes the ABV from 10% to 8%. Looks like the yeast struggles above 9% ABV. Is it a crap recipe or can 1968 get this beer to 10%? Can I try it and pitch another yeast if it konks out early?

2) Unfortunately I don't have any oak bourbon barrels laying around (donations accepted though) so I'm going to give the oak chips a go. Sounds simple enough. 1 ounce to 5 gallons is 28 grams to 19 liters in normal speak. Two week soak then dump into secondary... Is it that easy? I feel I'll find a way to mess this up somehow.

3) I usually don't do secondary fermentation. I was thinking I could rack to a carboy and stash it away for six months but then it's going to be a pain getting it from the carboy into bottles and I don't like the idea of all that oxygen exposure getting it into the carboy and then into the bottles. Could I just add the oak chips to the primary fermenter once fermentation finishes, give it a few additional weeks, then bottle and age in the bottle? How do others do it?

4) I usually us a paddle connected to my drill to aerate my wort. Do I really need pure oxygen for something this big? I've been reading about vitality starters. Is this another option?

Any other RIS advice or lessons you've learnt would be appreciated.

Brian.
 
Last edited:
On 1
More opinions than brewers on the best yeast, I have had to resort to finishing off barley wine with Champaign yeast, will attenuate very well and can handle 18-19% ABV. Far from the only option but one that will work if you pull up short.

2
Chips have a very large surface area and can get real Oakey very fast, but it tends to be a fairly course flavour. Have found dominoes or batons give a better (finer more integrated) result but take longer. Again a personal opinion based on personal taste.

3
If you are going to have the beer in secondary for weeks/months at high alcohol the odds of yeast autolysis go through the roof (lost a good Barley Wine to autolysis). I would be tempted to rack to a keg and then transfer to package, at least that would make getting the Oak chips/dominoes/batons in and out a lot easier. Might be worth fitting a strainer/filter to the dip-tube to keep bits of Oak out of the fittings.

Fun and challenging brewing very high alcohol beers, I find they can improve dramatically with age (up to several years) Yeast Autolysis and Oxygen being the enemies, bottle in small bottles and enjoy for up to a decade.
Mark
 
I haven't brewed RIS many times, but have won state medals for those I've entered in comps so hopefully my experience will help.

1) I've never used 1968. WLP090, WLP007 and US-05 have all made RIS between 9-11% successfully for me.

2) Have never used chips in a RIS. Didn't like the woody (not just oaky) character they imparted to an imperial brown ale I made and wouldn't use them again.

3) I have never done secondary for a RIS, and I both keg and bottle. Adding fruit/hops/oak to primary won't be an issue.

4) I just pour my wort from a cube (as a no-chiller), which gives sufficient oxygenation RIS just like any other beer. However to be on the safe side I'd suggest pitch a very healthy yeast starter or cake from a previous beer.
 

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