FG question......

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Yola

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So my question is that my fg is lower that what the intended fg is. App says 1.012-1.010 but it has come out real low 1.007 and I don't think it's finished yet. What does it mean??
Does it mean that it will be dry?
S05 yeast smash pale og 1.042
What is the difference with the beer 1.012 and let say 1.007.
Thanks for any help just trying to learn about all this stuff.
 
Thats 84% attenuation which is quite high.
Drier finish.
Low mash temp or ingredients could do this. So could infection.....how does it taste?
 
I think it was 66d for 70 mins maris otter 4kg.
Nelson sav hops which has a different smell/taste.
Tasted it yesterday seemed quite bitter. Have not used this hops before so don't know what to expect.
 
84% attenuation isn't too big a surprise for US-05, the alcohol is only up to around 4.6%, but as above I would be looking at mash temperature (assuming it isn't infected), more precisely how you are measuring your mash temperature and is the thermometer telling the truth.
Mark
 
Quite bitter on the back of the palette
 
Hydrometer out? Water is 996 cold. ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1488869715.491239.jpg
 
If in cold water, it is below 1, then yes, the hydro is out.

Are you checking the correct meniscus? If it does say anything on it, it would be bottom, but there is anyway 1 brand that specifies the upper meniscus (the one I have does).

Also check the calibration temp on the hydro, and check it with water of that temp.

The colder the solution is, the higher the hydro will read. Hotter=lower.
 
i recently brewed a cascade SMaSH as well that had a rather low FG, dont have exact details in front of me but it was BIAB at 66-65degs (digi stick thermometer), 4.5kgs ale, US-05, sg was about 1045 and FG about 1006-7. tasted just fine if a little dryer than i would normally drink in the keg sample. i figured id mashed too low and plan on raising to 67-68 next time to compensate.

so i wouldnt sweat on it too much. its a never ending learning curve.
 
Check thermometer used for mash temps.

I realised I mashed a brew at 60c (Target was 64c) for 90min. Trying to make a light beer with OG-1.040.
Expected FG - 1.011
It finished at 1.002.
Light in carbs but still 5%.
Good beer brewing experience.
 
The beer will be bitter because the sugars have been converted and put the beer out of balance.
 
I would fill the Robobrew. Set it to 65, let it warm up, when it levels out take a temp reading with a second thermometer to make sure its accurate.

Also, did you calculate the strike temp accurately? If not then the grain could have cooled the water by a bit, which may have taken a little while for the Robobrew to get it back up to temp. Also, if you don't have a pump and this happens the grain at the top may take even longer to get to temp.
 
Using a Robobrew myself and have not yet set up a pump to recirc hoping to do that for next brew. Have found temp to be inconsistent without some sort of recirc have been recircing with a jug to try and keep temps even throughout not ideal but seems to help.
 
Yola said:
Robobrew set temp at 66
I discovered recently I need to set my Robo temp at least 2 deg higher than the intended mash temp. I have a recirc pump and use a yoga mat wrapped around the Robo too so your results may vary. The best thing you can do is measure the mash temp with a probe and it will tell you where it truly is. I did this for my last brew and hit my FG right on the button.

Definitely do not set the Robo temp for the number you want though.
 
As Lionhead said - are you heating the water to strike temperature before adding grain (mashing in)? Strike temp should be a few degrees higher than mash temp as you'll lose a few degrees due to the temp of the grain. For a 66C mash, add your grain to 69C strike water.
 
I've always had better attenuation with my Braumeister because I mash in at 25c.

The ramp up for the target temp of 65 or 66c on most beers goes through the lower beta amalayse temps of 60c - 64c and this takes 90secs per degree to get up to 65c. That 5 min rest essentially gets a lower gravity for the final beer by about 2-3points.
 
That's fine if you're after a drier, crisper beer Pratty - but if you want a full-bodied beer, best skip the step.
 
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