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Torsion

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Hi all,

I'm thinking that I will convert my current converted keg kettle into a HLT when I step up to AG brewing. What I'm thinking of doing is this, get one of the tobins "over the side" immersion elements (4108) and control it with a home made thermostat of similar design to this one but with a wider range (use the TS-120S as the guts).

Has anybody used a similar setup to this, and what were the results like? Can anybody see any obvious problems with this design?

On a related note, I have been emailing tobins and they recommended I use the VG250/120 thermostat to control the heater - which I am almost certian is exactly what MAH made in the thread above, but with a wider range - for $143.00! :eek:

TIA
Cam
 

warrenlw63

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Cam,

Shouldn't be a problem. :)

I use something similar as a boil kettle and part-time HLT. Though it's about to become a full-time HLT now I've got another keg for a boiler.

Note 2 x 2400 watt elements in the sides. I can only run one of these on a single circuit. Have to run an extension cord to the other side of the house to operate the 2 at once. Will get cold water up to the boil in just over an hour with 2. With one it takes about 2 hours or so. Needless to say I only use 2 if I'm pressed for time. :)

It's fine to use the one element. I just set the boiler up on a timer overnight and have it switch on about 3 hours before I get up. Water is at a perfect temp by then.

The thermostat shown is one of my refrigerator ones. I've also got another that's visually the same for heating. Has a range from 30-110c. Brand is Adloheat. IIRC They're about $110. Not the cheapest, however they're a very reliable unit. The oldest one I've got is coming to 6 years of service and hasn't skipped a beat.

Hope this helps.

Warren -

Graphic1.jpg
 

Justin

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Hi Cam, that $143 controller that Tobins offers, as far as I'm aware, has come about as a result of a heap of homebrewers buying the TS-040 thermostat. I guess a few people have asked if they have prebuilt ones or they have gotten onto our little project. Its much cheaper to build your own.

I'd built it myself if I were you. It is very basic wiring and if your not comfortable doing it yourself you should have no problems finding someone else to do it. I have posted wiring instructions on this thermostat before (the 120C model is the same), it might be in the post you refer to above but if not just do a search.

As for the HLT idea. What your planning to do is basically what I've done and it will work, but I have made mine a little more complex for a number of reasons. My HLT runs on two kettle elements as above, a 2200W and an 1800W (just what I had at the time). These need to run off different circuits as above also.

Your idea will work as long as you run only the one element. Takes a bit longer but if your going to set it on a timer then it doesn't matter. Just make sure that the timer you choose is rated to the current that the element will draw, because if I remember correctly most cheap timers wont actually handle 10Amps. So just check that.

The way I've set mine up is a bit different in that my thermostat controls both elements. I've done this through a series of heavy duty relays and my thermostat actually only controls the power to these relays. Therefore, I can place my timer switch to control the power to the thermostat (not the elements-different circuit), therefore negating the need for 10Amps of power to run through the timer.

Hope it helps anyway. Get to it.

Cheers mate. Justin

Edit: Here's the link to that thread:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...20diagram&st=15
 

Tim

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Thanks for this info guys.
I was looking at building a multiprobe circuit similar to the one on the ozcraftbrewers site, but this is much simpler!

I am planning to have mine set up as a HERMS with the element in the HLT and the temp probe in the mash tun and have the pump running to heat up the water in the tun by heat exchange. I will use a timer, so hopefully the water will be at mash in temps by the time im ready to dough in.
 

Batz

Batz Brewery...Hand crafted beers from the 'Batcav
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Tim said:
Thanks for this info guys.
I was looking at building a multiprobe circuit similar to the one on the ozcraftbrewers site, but this is much simpler!

I am planning to have mine set up as a HERMS with the element in the HLT and the temp probe in the mash tun and have the pump running to heat up the water in the tun by heat exchange. I will use a timer, so hopefully the water will be at mash in temps by the time im ready to dough in.
[post="64871"][/post]​

Sounds like mine

Batz
 

Tim

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Does it hold the temp alright Batz??
 

lou

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I think you may have a problem with the thermostat

when the element goes off the wort will stop boiling immediatly

there is no in between point with electric elements - they are either on boiling the wort or off. A thermostat imho is waste of time on electric boiler - you are better off matching the wattage of the element to the volume of the wort whether that be through have two elements or just getting the right watteage on the single element.

just my 2 c

lou
 

Torsion

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Thanks for the info/feedback guys, I feel more confident I'm on the right track now.

Lou - I will be using it in the HLT, so maintaining a rolling boil will not be an issue - but controlling the temp will be, hence the t'stat.

Cam
 

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