Drying-out a leaky shed - ideas?

[MartinOC]

I've just acquired an 8x20m shed, but one end leaks, as the colourbond wall stops on top of the slab, rather than dropping over the edge of it. Water gets in every time it rains (which it does a fair bit in Kinglake, VIC atm).

I want to dry-out the wall/floor gap so I can run a swag of silicone sealant into it.

I've tried covering the gap with plastic, but the water still gets in (I'm guessing the slab slopes the wrong way).

I've thought of hiring a 125K BTU space heater to dry-out the gap (moving it around a lot) & then get the silicone in ASAP whilst everything is dry/warm.

Anyone got any other creative solutions?

 

[Not For Horses]

Hmmmm. How about a buttload of sawdust along the leaky wall to soak up the water then shovel it all out?

 

[Bridges]

Pretty sure selleys has speed seal silicone which cures in just 2 hours if I remember correctly. It may make the project a bit easier.

 

[jimmybee]

How far does the wall cladding finish short of going down past the slab?

If it's not to far I would consider getting a flashing folded up to sit behind the wall cladding, across the slab, then down the face of the the slab 50+mm...

This would be far more durable than silicone. As the expansion /contraction of the wall cladding will eventually knacker the silicone join...

Jim

 

[MartinOC]

Hmm... Now you guys got me thinking.

Jimmybee, the bottom of the colourbond wall drops straight onto the slab with a variable ~ 5mm gap (which is why I was thinking a simple silicone solution). The slab then extends another 1000mm beyond the colourbond wall. It's a lot to consider, when I could use the space for water storage tanks etc.

I'm open to any suggestions.....Would construction adhesive be more flexible for the gap?

 

[Not For Horses]

Could you get a concrete saw and cut a small gutter into the slab at the base of the cladding?

 

[SmallFry]

Wait til summer?

 

[Smokomark]

Hmm... Now you guys got me thinking.

Jimmybee, the bottom of the colourbond wall drops straight onto the slab with a variable ~ 5mm gap (which is why I was thinking a simple silicone solution). The slab then extends another 1000mm beyond the colourbond wall. It's a lot to consider, when I could use the space for water storage tanks etc.

I'm open to any suggestions.....Would construction adhesive be more flexible for the gap?

You will find that Liquid nails, maxibond and those type products will dry and crack within a year or two.

There are silicones on the market that can be applied to wet / underwater surfaces, but probably best to dry it out to get max adhesion.

 

[spog]

Sikaflex sealant is what you need,it is flexible and a good product.of course you will have to let the slab dry before applying.
It's not cheap and as sticky as ****,apply it where it's needed then using a spray bottle mix of dish washing detergent and water spray a mist over the iron and concrete then gently smooth it into place. An ice cream stick is perfect for this.
The mix stops it sticking to things you don't want it on.
Again Sikaflex is very sticky and stringy so go easy,for filling bigger gaps build it up over a few applications over a few days.
If you do have to apply a few runs, do the first pass slowly and carefully but don't use the spray as the next lot won't adhere,use the spray to finish the job once you are happy that the gaps are filled.

 

[bradsbrew]

Waterproof membrane and bandage?

 

[Liam_snorkel]

Yep, some kind of flashing would be your best bet - pressed metal or membrane. Concrete is porous, so even if you form a seal along the base, it will leech through regardless. My shed has a similar problem.

 

[hotmelt]

I think a combination of Jimmybees idea and Not For Horses might work.
Cut a slot 2 or 3 inches from the wall, insert flashing and silicone then flatten and bend up the inside wall.

 

[MartinOC]

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. You lot are just brilliant! :super:

We need to get this sorted ASAP, as we're planning on moving into the shed (ie. living in it whilst we build a house), so waiting for better weather is not a viable option, but I reckon I can get a good work-around using some heavy-duty plastic sheeting & duct tape to keep the weather out in the short-term.

Wish me luck - it's going to get F'kin' miserable in the next few months.

 

[pk.sax]

How about you mix up a sack of concrete and lay a bead across on the inside. Cut the wind out at least. Might be porous as people say but it won't be flooding in.

Living in a shed mate, you have a very understanding Mrs.

 

[spog]

You say a "sack of concrete ",this Sir is Oz it is therefore a Bag of concrete.
But I am sure you actually mean a bag of cement.

 

[pk.sax]

Sack of cement

 

[MartinOC]

Living in a shed mate, you have a very understanding Mrs.

Actually, it's her idea to do all of this (she watches waaay too much property-porn!).

 

[Mardoo]

So what are you going to do while she builds the house?

 

[bradsbrew]

But PF will need a sack trolley for his bag of cement?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

If you try Robot Trading you will be able to pick up some colour bond cover sheets very cheap make a lean to over the remaining 1M and use that to store any building materials you can also get square gal offcuts cheap as well to make your frame.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Slide some 50x50mm 90* plastic angle under the tin from the inside. Buy it cheap from the big green shed. Its cheap.

You could put a bead of silicon on the under side to seal it againt the concrete the screw or rivet it in place

 

[MartinOC]

So what are you going to do while she builds the house?

Ah, there's the rub....you see, whilst she likes the IDEA of building a new "Grand Design", I don't think she'll have much to actually do with it, since she'll be working. I'm the poor bunny that's got the job of paying for it, negotiating contracts, project managing the build etc...etc.... However, there WILL be brewage on a regular basis (I'll need my sanity-time!!). Also, I'm kinda hoping that the tradies will keep happy & focussed on the job if I ply them with free beer at the end of their day.

If you try Robot Trading you will be able to pick up some colour bond cover sheets very cheap make a lean to over the remaining 1M and use that to store any building materials you can also get square gal offcuts cheap as well to make your frame.

Bloody good idea! Firewood storage too...

Slide some 50x50mm 90* plastic angle under the tin from the inside. Buy it cheap from the big green shed. Its cheap.

You could put a bead of silicon on the under side to seal it againt the concrete the screw or rivet it in place

Thanks, Stu, I'll check that out next time I'm in the BGS. I'd need to establish appropriate lengths, since the shed frame (perlins?) might restrict access in places.

Geez you guys are inventive! Must be homebrewers

 

[DU99]

Expanding foam,or no more gaps

 

[djar007]

Brads brew is on the money I think. I used to do a lot of water proofing and tanking. If you are interested in a few local products try a mob called concrete protection in Burnley. Excavate the outside and use sikaflex to fill gaps. Proflex to seal if below soil level. Microl will work if above ground. But sounds like you need Proflex. Embed some fibreglass if you need some flexibility in the joins. Any concrete waterproofing you need without the use of membranes can be achieved using krystol. Slightly affiliated I guess. Well twenty years ago anyway.

 

[Bridges]

If you try Robot Trading you will be able to pick up some colour bond cover sheets very cheap make a lean to over the remaining 1M and use that to store any building materials you can also get square gal offcuts cheap as well to make your frame.

If you want to go this option, try N.P. roofing first. 25 Reservoir Rd Yan Yean, VIC, 3755. ph. 9716 2527

No affiliation, just a happy customer. Fantastic prices and often has seconds available which are cheaper still, and just down the hill from your place.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

The 50x50 plastic angle comes in std lengths.

You an buy it as a thin flashing or thick external corner section used for external cladding

Bunengs might even have a colorbond 90* flashing. Wont matter on dimensions, but you want 50mm or bigger.

* Note. Its the same **** they use on rural sheds for vermin/snake protection that sits under the sheets on the slab and stops water running down the sides and into the shed.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Or you could go to a sheet metal place and get some 100mm x 1mm zinc bent at 90*.

They could do it on the spot.

 

[Martrix]

You're only allowed a certain amount of time living in a shed. Have you got adequate sewerage and water connections? I have prick neighbour's living illegally in a caravan with no sewerage or water connected for well over 12 months!

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

You're only allowed a certain amount of time living in a shed.!

Depends on council.

Rural areas you can live in a shed as long as it is compliant ( ie built to a shed standard ) and it has a proper septic system.

Plenty of blokes I know live legally in sheds.

It is nothing more than a dwelling

 

[Bridges]

Or you could go to a sheet metal place and get some 100mm x 1mm zinc bent at 90*.

They could do it on the spot.

N.P. can bend flashings etc to whatever dimension you want, zinc or colourbond.