Ditching the 4V HLT & HERMS and going 2V RIMS heating questions

[droid]

That's the kind of thing, nice and simple.

 

[malt junkie]

Pic didn't work in my prevous post: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/56974-Dedicated-Rims-Guide,-Problems-&-Solution-Thread#entry886947

1 extra valve and 1 extra pump fly sparge

 

[droid]

something maybe that looks a little like this without the badges and holes, I like this shape. The door would be welded shut and the end would be open instead.

the other end could house some elements plugged into a controller

 

[droid]

Pic didn't work in my prevous post: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/56974-Dedicated-Rims-Guide,-Problems-&-Solution-Thread#entry886947

1 extra valve and 1 extra pump fly sparge

you posted that while I was farting about with my post Mike - I'll check the link, cheers mate

 

[Adr_0]

Pic didn't work in my prevous post: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/56974-Dedicated-Rims-Guide,-Problems-&-Solution-Thread#entry886947

1 extra valve and 1 extra pump fly sparge

Yeah, that's what you'd need if you wish to fly. My setup is only appropriate for 1 batch sparge.

That's not a bad setup - I would say the CFC is optional and for a 100-114L batch, sub in a 10,000W element.

 

[Mr B]

What about something like this - hlt top, herms mash and gas boiler (need to sort an electric element for your boil, might be ok as you are looking at bigger pots). Fly sparge no probs. herms heats strike and mash

But you do need to lift the mash, I use a pulley, this may not suit your thoughts. Only use one pump.

Excuse the pic, need to find a bench one day.



For sparge the hose comes off the boil outlet and goes on the hlt out. Through herms to ensure exact temp, throttle pump for appropriate flow.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Thinking outside the box, as I've seen people discussing 'cool' sparging benefits. So if you have an instantaneous or house hot water why not just have a mash tun on RIMS, use kettle for heating to strike, recirc in mash and maintain/step with RIMS. But then sparge with your house hot water at whatever max temp you get out of it be it 50, 60 or 70C etc...? Saves worrying about this additional fancy schmancy device purely for gaining a bit of unneccesary heat in the water.

Ed. Night time spelling

 

[droid]

Thanks mr B
Dj, no hot water to the shed just that blue drinking hose from a tap. I guess I could ask the plumber when he fits out some new taps in the laundry, could have a sneaky outlet under the laundry sink and run a hose but thinking about it I'm not sure that hose is any good for heat, though granted its not much heat

Hmm

 

[malt junkie]

with you on hot water in plastic hose, though I like DJ's suggestion.

Droid what sort of power have you got in the brew house?

 

[Mardoo]

You can easily make up a silicone hose to run from here to there.

 

[droid]

with you on hot water in plastic hose, though I like DJ's suggestion.

Droid what sort of power have you got in the brew house?

Mike - Madhu the hot water for the house is maybe 15-18mtrs from the brew
I have SOlar panels right above the brewhouse. Its only household power but I can run 4400w through, would 15amp be enough if fitted?

Seems like I'm a bit stuck between freestanding gas that's a bit fugly but more mobile and neat, slick brew power that would need upgrading?

You can easily make up a silicone hose to run from here to there.

I could do that, it would be $150ish but might be a cheaper alternative.

if I was recirculating the mash up to sparge temps then using 60-70C water on top for the sparge, would that mean batch sparging only? It would be better to pull ALL that hot water off the mash before sparging with the lower the temp wouldn't it, from an efficiency pov? I just continually feed the top of the mash with sparge water at the moment but am getting a sparge arm

 

[QldKev]

Do you really need a hot water sparge on a home brewer scale? On my 1V and my mates 2V we both now cold water sparge. I only hot water sparge on my 3V (aka 4V with HERMS) as it helps the kettle get to the boil faster as it has a smaller watts per liter ratio. On my 1V I called it a "hose sparge™"

 

[malt junkie]

I'd have a chat to your plumber, you can pickup on demand systems on ebay for a couple of hundred, but your plumber would need to advise if the particular unit is adjustable to a max of 80c then it's flow control to vary that, run it on LPG and bolt it to the rig.

4400w is going to struggle with 80L+ so gas looks like your easiest path.

 

[droid]

Do you really need a hot water sparge on a home brewer scale? On my 1V and my mates 2V we both now cold water sparge. I only hot water sparge on my 3V (aka 4V with HERMS) as it helps the kettle get to the boil faster as it has a smaller watts per liter ratio. On my 1V I called it a "hose sparge™"

I had no idea that you could cold water sparge - that makes a big difference ... a huge difference, cheers Kev!

I'd have a chat to your plumber, you can pickup on demand systems on ebay for a couple of hundred, but your plumber would need to advise if the particular unit is adjustable to a max of 80c then it's flow control to vary that, run it on LPG and bolt it to the rig.

4400w is going to struggle with 80L+ so gas looks like your easiest path.

I don't know the total watts I can run at one time Mike, I know that it runs fine with two 2200w KK elements on at one time for the HLT

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

I run hot water in the "light blue" hose from Bunnings (caravan drinking water hose), as it's confirmed safe at temps up to 90C (I emailed the Pope supplier way back, there's a post on here somewhere from me)... so just connect it to the hot tap in the house instead of the cold. I do that for my entire brew day.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Found it http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/85380-drinking-water-hose-for-brewing/?p=1269659

 

[droid]

thanks DJ and thanks everyone for advice and thoughts

i managed to score a 6' stainless bench Wednesday night for a brilliant price. It has a solid stainless undershelf and legs - some new ones are gal legs and undershelf. This one is older and nice and strong. So I'll utilize the bench space and stick with 3V + HERMS or RIMS

but I really like the idea of a small compact system so as bits come to hand I'm going to build a 2V keggle arrangement on a trolly for smaller batches and for the build enjoyment too.

cheers!

 

[QldKev]

If you are going to build a trolley for the 2V consider 2 trolleys, that are equal. Then while one of the vessels is at the boil, you can wheel the mash tun one out for cleaning. Best idea we did on my mates setup.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

That's awesome Kev. I'm yet to NOT make a sticky wet grain mess cleaning my mash tun whilst waiting for the boil.

 

[TheWiggman]

I've been a solid advocate of using RIMS/HERMS to heat strike water since like forever you know? It takes one step out of the system and does a completely adequate job. It's not so much about the volume; provided you have the heating capacity (i.e. power/W) then the method of applying it is up to you. You'll get some minor losses through the circulation but in reality it's not justification to change your system. Other benefits -

• Don't have to calculate heat offset for transfer between vessels
• Fewer valves or less complicated valve
• Can fill all vessels to correct volume prior (critical for me as I use RO water for most brews)