Coopers Real Ale - details please

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aamcle

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There was a 1/2 price offer so I bought a tin with the idea of using is as Hopped LME to boost the SG of the 2nd gyle(?)/runnings of a huge stout I'll be brewing soon but I'd like a few details.

Made up to 23 litres how many IBU should I expect from the Real Ale kit?
What hops are used in the Real Ale?


Many Thanks aamcle
 
I'd guess they use the same hops as in most of their kits, an extract probably of Superpride.
I used it a lot in my KnK days when I did an ale.

The kit itself is 560 IBU, that's how Coopers quote their bitterness.
In other words if you dilute the 1.3 litre tin to 23 litres that works out to about 19 IBU so it's a good base kit that you can add hops to.
 
Like Bribie said thats the concentrated IBU before dilution
 
Stu, for example when you drink your Coopers Mild at the bar, the concentrate in the keg is 6325 IBU and by the time it's been mixed with the carbonated water in the Coopers Dilutinator on the way to the tap (the bit you don't get to see) it ends up as 25 IBU in your glass.
 
earle said:
Like Bribie said thats the concentrated IBU before dilution
I think he just wanted emphasise the bitterness, and maybe to swear a little.

Real Ale was one of my favourite cans, back in the days before the dreaded monster of grain brewing stole my will and took my ability to brew cans with any level of flavour.
 
I taught a couple of guys to brew using kits and although the standard "entry" kit tended to be the rather ordinary Coopers Lager, I always steered them to the Real Ale kit instead.

I found that a real ale kit, just the standard kit yeast and a box of Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 always produced a very drinkable beer and usually blew away the typical VB drinker. As well as being a shade darker than most commercial megaswills. And as we all know, if beer is darker then it's gotta be stronger, right.

For the OP, it should go great in a stout.
 
Taken from Coopers.com.au. From their FAQ list.

To calculate the bitterness of the brew:



Multiply the quoted product bitterness by the weight of the product (1.7kg)* and divide by the total brew volume (normally 23 litres). * We use the weight because our quoted colour/bitterness figures are based on a 10% weight/volume dilution.



Product bitterness x 1.7 / Brew volume = Brew Bitterness before fermentation



As an example, if a brew is made with Mexican Cerveza up to a volume of 23 litres:

270 x 1.7 / 23 = 20 IBU (International Bitterness Units)



This figure represents the brew bitterness prior to fermentation. Generally, fermentation reduces bitterness by between 10% to 30%. So final bitterness of the fermented brew may be anything from 14 to 18 IBU.



Colour may be calculated in the same way but don't bother with % loss through fermentation. Ensure to add the colour contribution of all ingredients together. Colour figures are quoted for liquid extract at the time of packaging as these products will darken with time. The darkening process is accelerated by exposure to elevated temperature.
 
Real Ale:
560IBU X 1.7kg devided by 23lt = 41 IBU.
Then minus 10 to 30% after fermentation according to them = Between 28.7 to 36.9 IBU.

Colour 230 EBC X 1.7kg devide by 23lt = 17 EBC

I got nostalgic and had to refresh my memory.
 
Bribie G said:
Stu, for example when you drink your Coopers Mild at the bar, the concentrate in the keg is 6325 IBU and by the time it's been mixed with the carbonated water in the Coopers Dilutinator on the way to the tap (the bit you don't get to see) it ends up as 25 IBU in your glass.
Is this for real?
 
I just came home from the pub

I only manged to drink 10 Schooners of Coopers Bookeeprs Ale on tap ( and 2 or 3 Makers mark on ice waiting for the bus )

I am not sure i iknow where Bribie is comming from

Unicorns *******
 

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