Cold Conditioning Temp?

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verynewtohomebrew

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Hey Guys

Just a quick question Im about to try my first cold conditioning on a brew.

Its just a simple brew that im experimenting with that im about to rack and was wondering what ppls thoughts were on an ideal temp for CC'ing - keep in mind I can make the temp whatever I want as my mates a fridgy and he will change my fridge thermostat to suit.

Cheers

VNTHB

Merry Christmas and a Happy new Year to all at AHB
 
I do mine at 3 deg C.
But however close you can get your fridge to 0 deg C without it freezing would be fine.

Beers,
Doc
 
Yeah

3C is fine

.5c even better

for a lager, -3C is better still
 
OK no worries

I will get it racked thursday

Do you think cold conditiong improves the brew more than racking or just does it do it faster??

My mate and I have been debating this for a while - he cant see that CC'ing would make any difference but then again he dosnt think there any point in racking either and I know that it definatly improves the brew no doubt.

Cheers Guys

VNTHB
 
well, you need to rack it off the yeast cake to cold condition. . .

Except in summer, keep your beer in primary two weeks, then rack to a 20l food grade cube, shove in a nice cold fridge and leave there at least two weeks (kits, low grav AG beers) to 3 or 4 months (high grav AG beers)

Jovial Monk
 
Hi Guys Iam even newer to this game and have a few questions
If i rack to a 2nd fermenter do i have to CC it or can i leave it in the same place (laundry) as i dont have a spare fridge and if so how long do i leave it and whats the main advantage in doing this??

Ta


Sintax69
 
racking into a secondary essential is done to remove any chance of autolysis or bad 'flavours' we do this by removing the wort from the yeast bed. It also helps to clarify our beer.

We only CC at the end of fermentation. We rack near the end. When we rack we want it cooler but not less than say 14oC (atleast my opinion :eek: )

We CC at < 4oC to improve flavour but (maybe) more importantly to clarify our beer.


Well thats my opinion there are alot of people out their who know alot more than me but..............thats my 2cents worth
 
wedge said:
racking into a secondary essential is done to remove any chance of autolysis or bad 'flavours' we do this by removing the wort from the yeast bed. It also helps to clarify our beer.
I guess every one has their own way of doing things,different as they are, but to the same end. I simply ferment for 7 days then turn the temp down to 0deg for another 7, without racking, and then kegging. According to the Grumps, autolysis is not a problem here because the brew is not on the yeast long enough, and the end result is very clear beer. tastes bloody good too.
 
fingers said:
According to the Grumps, autolysis is not a problem here because the brew is not on the yeast long enough, and the end result is very clear beer. tastes bloody good too.
yeah, two weeks shouldnt be any problem. i did two weeks in primary a couple of months back with no problems. havent tried it, but you could probably go three (and maybe four) with out any trouble.

just a thought, but would lowering the temp after a week or two in primary slow the process? like slowing down the degradation of the yeast allowing you to leave it in primary longer without getting any unwanted results in the finished beer.
joe
 
Don't know about a mash brew Joe, I only do k&k and it works well, probably different for the mashers.
 
no

all beers have a yeast cake

in Oz summer, yeast cake turns into vegemite quickly

better to brew fall/winter/spring
2 weeks in primary
rack to secondary
colder you can secondary the better
at least two weeks

in Oz summer, 7 days in primary is plenty, rack and CC a couple of weeks
no fridge for CC? Drive around a bit, wherever hard rubbish is being collected bet you can see a perfectly good fridge standing on the footpath
grab it and you can CC!

No excuses!

Jovial Monk
 
Just following up on the cold conditioning.
After you have CC'd for however long you want to what is the method for bukk priming if you are bottling?
Do you do it straight away or let the beer come back to room temp?
What is the best way?

cheers
 
I'd just bottle it cold? :) Just me though.

I have no technical reason for doing it apart from saving time in waiting for the brew to warm up :)
 
Thanks kook,
so it doesnt really make a difference if you bottle cold or let it come back to room temp?

cheers
 
johnno said:
Just following up on the cold conditioning.
After you have CC'd for however long you want to what is the method for bukk priming if you are bottling?
Do you do it straight away or let the beer come back to room temp?
What is the best way?

cheers
Johnno, you can do it either way. When the beer is cold it contains more dissolved CO2 therefore you need less priming sugar. Depending on your style of beer you can calculate the amount of priming sugar required.
I use this priming calculator and am very happy with results when I do bottle.

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator...tml?3493970#tag

Hope this is of some help

Cheers and bollocks
TDA
 
Thanks TDA,
I will check it out.
So if you need less primer when its cold there is a danger of creating the ol grenades.
cheers
 
Johnno, this has just done the rounds on the Goliath phorum. Beer retains more dissolved CO2 at lower temperatures so you need to use less priming sugar. I prefer to let it come to room temp over 24 hrs & then prime with the standard amount & bottle. I've had gushers with beer that was primed cold.
 
Thanks TDA, great site for carb. levels.
I was wondering is there any need to CC or rack a draught style beer? As all the ones i have done have been very clear straight from the primary.
 
I've got a question about cold conditioning. My usual process for making beer is about 1 week on the cake in the primary, then rack into a secondary fermenter and let it stew for another week. Would I then neccessarily rack once more for cold conditioning into:

A) a fermenter to allow pressure to seep out?
B) a sealed drink cube to keep pressure in
c) a drink cube with dual outlets, leaving one open to allow pressure to seep out?

If i maintain it with the pressure sealed in, can the cube explode? Will the cold simply slow the yeast? or kill it so pressure build up isnt a problem?

Or is it a matter of after cold conditioning in a sealed container, then allow it to reheat, bulk prime, bottle, and the yeast will start up again and finish the carbonation? Is 3 weeks too long for yeast to work effectively over? I know theres alot of different methods you guys use, but some hard and fast rules would be great! :D

cheers
pr1me
 

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