Cleaning Fittings On Your Equipment

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wambesi

brewer
Joined
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Location
Narangba, Brisbane
Just wondering what peoples cleaning regimes are with your main brewery equipment.
Mainly your HLT (well nothing much needed there), MLT through to kettle.

Looking at trying a mash tun (I BIAB for now) and have been researching all the designs etc, and from what I have read and learned it seems some people pull apart everything after a brew and clean it and others flush the systems and leave them together.

When I mentioned to my Pop (fitter/turner/jack of all trades) how I was looking at putting it all together he said I should use some sealant instead (name eludes me a this point) as it would seal perfectly and is food grade too, no real need to pull it all apart for cleaning with the chemical cleaners around.

Opinions please!?
 
I'm afraid I'm not up to your grade in the brewing game, but for everything I have ever done in chemical or manufacturing work it has always been a case of "disassemble, clean chemically, rinse/neutralise, [optional special stages for industry specific stuff], reassemble, continue production".

Big case of better safe than sorry. YMMV.

Cheers - Fermented.
 
Me Personally, I am one for 100% result for as little exerted effort as possible, if I coul get my hands on some food grade sealant that your POP suggests I would give it a go.
However if I ended up with some infected brews then I would look at changing.

Just remember rule #1 from all brewers:

Cleanliness is next to Godliness of homebrewness

Makes you kinda want to go and buy a vacuum cleaner :lol:
 
So far with my kettle (only vessel I have with fittings) I take it apart and clean it, but it has a welded thread on it, unlike the newer items I am either building or now looking at acquiring.

Just wondering what others did.
 
So far with my kettle (only vessel I have with fittings) I take it apart and clean it, but it has a welded thread on it, unlike the newer items I am either building or now looking at acquiring.

Just wondering what others did.


i just circulate a mix of 6% white vinigar and water leave overnight and gets rid of all the calcium deposits then rinse with water works a treat cheap too


Pumpy
 
i just circulate a mix of 6% white vinigar and water leave overnight and gets rid of all the calcium deposits then rinse with water works a treat cheap too


Pumpy

Yeah I didn't think you would pull all that apart, first time I have seen a system like that apart from in photos... :)
My hacked together brewstand is going to be so much better though :p ....well at least each piece of steel will have a story anyway!!
 
Yeah I didn't think you would pull all that apart, first time I have seen a system like that apart from in photos... :)
My hacked together brewstand is going to be so much better though :p ....well at least each piece of steel will have a story anyway!!


Wambesi

The main ball valve you want to ensure is clean is the one that dumps the boiled wort from the kettle the ball valves can atract a bit of carbonised muck .

pumpy :)
 
I just wipe mine over with a dirty sock I keep down the chook yard.


Batz
 
I just wipe mine over with a dirty sock I keep down the chook yard.


Batz

Close Batz

The best way to clean Stainless steel the outside of the kettle is with a pair of damp womens Tights followed with a pair of dry ones

heard that on the radio


pumpy :)
 
Close Batz

a pair of damp womens Tights followed with a pair of dry ones




pumpy :)

Starting to sound like the Qld. Xmas case thread

Sorry back on topic

Batz
 
Bloody mods, can't even trust them to keep the thread on topic...then again thats AHB for ya!

Cheers Pumpy, I'm guessing a good run though straight after mashing will ensure sticky wort and whatnot in the manifold etc. is washed away.
 
Bloody mods, can't even trust them to keep the thread on topic...then again thats AHB for ya!

Cheers Pumpy, I'm guessing a good run though straight after mashing will ensure sticky wort and whatnot in the manifold etc. is washed away.


Yep , never leave overnight before rinsing stuff gets harder to remove

some people do acidic clean one time befoer a brew then Alkaline clean the next brew .


Fermentor line cleaner (Sodium Hydroxide)1 litre from ESB is good allrounder strong but


Pumpy
 
Hi all

The sealant mentioned above sounds like Loxeal engineering adhesive 58.11. Its a liquid thread sealer from the pluming shop. About $30 a tube and you use it instead of pluming tape. You apply to the male tread and do it up tight by hand and leave for 20 min. Suitable for potable water and rated to 150c. I use it in my kettle and have used it for about 3 years in my job and around home. It craps on pluming tape. It seals the joint completely so I dont think any nasties can get in there at all.

Only one problem - getting it loose again is pretty strong and leave bits in the treads that need a wire brush to get off when you clean the fittings once apart.

Hanzie
 
Loctie 567 PST Pipe Sealant is recommended for potable water and use on stainless steel fittings. Temp range is -50 to 205 deg C. Andale use it on there fittings so it shouldnt be a problem.

I am wary of using chemical compounds though.

My 2c FWIW
 
I have used the Loctite too. Good sealant but was more expensive at the time. Might be worth the extra coin...
 
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