Chilling vs No Chill

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Do you chill or no chill after boiling

  • Chill

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • No Chill

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
I do 10 minute no chilled IPAs with no calc adjustments and they taste fine to me. I also have no problem controlling bitterness flavour and aroma. But I also have botulism so that might a come into it. I also think red cars are faster than black ones. I know this because the aliens told me when they abducted me. They're just like us, some of them are chillers, some of them are no chillers. They do make some pretty good beers though, the anal probe IPA I had was awesome
 
I chill, immersion chiller, because I have access to unlimited cool water. I run water from rain tanks through chiller then back into water tanks.

Chilling in my mind lessens the chance for infections and gives greater control over the finished product.
And because its what I have done right from day one of AG, I'm used to it and comfortable with the process.

Get 10 brewers in a room and you will get 12 different opinions

Cheers
Chris
 
Both, I'm testing out all of my beers both ways. :D
 
I chill, mostly because I didnt know about the no chill method until recently and I have already had a lot of fun, with the help of a plumber mate, building an immersion chiller. Seems a waste to not use it.
 
Gingerbrew said:
I chill because I make better IPA's than you
Really? Have you ever tasted a well made no chill IPA? I have, and it was one of the best beers I've ever drunk, and one of the worst beers I've had was a chilled IPA.

I don't think chilling or not chilling makes a better or worse beer. The care taken to produce the wort and then how well you can control your fermentation are (IMHO at least) the primary determinants of the quality of the beer.

My 2c

JD.
 
JDW81 said:
Really? Have you ever tasted a well made no chill IPA? I have, and it was one of the best beers I've ever drunk, and one of the worst beers I've had was a chilled IPA.

I don't think chilling or not chilling makes a better or worse beer. The care taken to produce the wort and then how well you can control your fermentation are (IMHO at least) the primary determinants of the quality of the beer.

My 2c

JD.
It doesn't matter whether you chill or no chill. You merely adjust for either process in your recipe formulation. Sure you will handle your aroma hopping differently but it's really not that hard.
 
I'm going to break out the copper chiller :super: .

To save water I'll fill two cubes, dump them into the HLT, pump it through the chiller and back into the cubes and save it. I realized I could throw the cubes in the fridge the night before to chill quicker. Knowing nothing about cold break I wondered if it's OK to use cold water?

Also, is two 20 ltr cubes of cold water going to get a 40 litres down to pitching temp?
 
Over the weekend I got a sweet deal on a 60 litre esky, and an el-cheapo 1000 L/min pond pump. Now I'm pumping ice water through my copper chiller. :D

Haven't tried it "in the field" yet, but I have the connections on the chiller set up like a standard garden hose, so I can connect it to my tap to chill the first 50 - 60 degrees or so, then my ice bath for the remainder. Darwin tap water being ~30ºC it doesn't really help too much.

I don't know if it's worth the money, probably spent at least $200 on my chilling setup alone at this point, but what can I say, I'm an equipment addict. :ph34r:
 
I just saw this thread in the side bar and thought it was Stu trolling again :p .

I chill because I need to keep the fermentation cycle going to keep up with demand and because I think I get better late hop character in the styles that I want it in.
 
I no chill, because it allows me to use leftover wort to make starters, and also allows me to brew at any time and then ferment when I have the necessary resources available.

I've found they make a more bitter beer without changing the hopping schedule, and have found adding an extra 20min to the boil times provides me with a decent approximation of additional bitterness.

As per usual, YMMV, and this is just how I've worked it with my setup. Others have reported not changing hop schedules on their setups to no ill effect either. I originally added on 10min, but still found a lot of the beers to be quite bitter, so upped the times to 15min, then 20min.

Test, taste, and tinker.
 
I NC because I am a busy boy. It's the same as taking a short cut with no ill effects to the final product when done well.
 
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Logman said:
I'm going to break out the copper chiller :super: .

To save water I'll fill two cubes, dump them into the HLT, pump it through the chiller and back into the cubes and save it. I realized I could throw the cubes in the fridge the night before to chill quicker. Knowing nothing about cold break I wondered if it's OK to use cold water?

Also, is two 20 ltr cubes of cold water going to get a 40 litres down to pitching temp?
 
I chill because all of my beers have big late and whirlpool hop additions; I want to preserve as much aroma and flavour as I can and keep things consistent and repeatable. Also, I like to pitch yeast as soon as possible so I can taste it sooner.
 
I plan to knock out my first AG on the weekend. I plan to no chill at this stage even though I have two tanks. With three young kids and lots of other stuff around the house that needs doing, I'll only be able to brew when I get the chance. If the planets align and I can brew on consecutive days, or weekends, I don't want to waste the opportunity because I don't have a free fermenter, so I'll dump it into a cube instead. Secondly, I've spent a fair bit of cash setting up my BIAB system so can't really justify buying a chiller at this stage. If time and cash becomes more plentiful down the track, I will probably move to chilling then.
 
I no chill all my beers. It's more convenient for me to just brew when I can and then ferment whenever I have enough empties to put the batch into. Aside from one batch (recipe formulation issue there), I've been very satisfied with the results I've been getting. :)
 
sponge said:
I no chill, because it allows me to use leftover wort to make starters, and also allows me to brew at any time and then ferment when I have the necessary resources available.

I've found they make a more bitter beer without changing the hopping schedule, and have found adding an extra 20min to the boil times provides me with a decent approximation of additional bitterness.

As per usual, YMMV, and this is just how I've worked it with my setup. Others have reported not changing hop schedules on their setups to no ill effect either. I originally added on 10min, but still found a lot of the beers to be quite bitter, so upped the times to 15min, then 20min.

Test, taste, and tinker.
I agree with this on my many , many no chill brewing efforts. 20 mins to your boil hop additions is almost spot on for no chill
 
20 minutes no chill tastes like 60 chill. Flameout is about 30 minutes to my taste.

I do both. Depends on the beer. If I want to have lots of late additions, aroma, flavour, it has to be chilled.

If I'm doing early addition beers where hop profile isn't within the guidelines, then it's no chill.
 
I used to chill (ice bath) but switched to no-chill to save water. The difference in late hop character is definitely noticable, but I've been getting some good results with cube hopping and dry hopping.
 
Logman said:
I'm going to break out the copper chiller :super: .

To save water I'll fill two cubes, dump them into the HLT, pump it through the chiller and back into the cubes and save it. I realized I could throw the cubes in the fridge the night before to chill quicker. Knowing nothing about cold break I wondered if it's OK to use cold water?

Also, is two 20 ltr cubes of cold water going to get a 40 litres down to pitching temp?
I don't think so. Assuming your cold water is 4 degrees and your hot wort is 90, it's not going to bring the temperature much under 50.
 
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