Building A Three-tier System

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Ces

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Hi guys,


i'm new on the forum (first post) and am looking forward to learning alot from all the members on board.

i've brewed a number of kit beers and a few partial mashes but after a hiatus, i have decided to return to homebrewing and go the whole hog this time. I'm planning on building a three-tiered (cooler MLT) vertical brew stand for outdoor use. Before i build, i've got a few questions about gear for anyone that can help.

1. What size cooler will i need if i plan on sticking to five gallon batches for the time being? i had considered purchasing a 50 L model.

2. The system will be gravity fed from a converted keg HLT, to the cooler into a keggle. i plan on using plastic tubing for vessel transfers. what valves (brand, sizes, mechanism, temp. rating) can anyone recommend if they are to be welded to the kegs and screwed into the cooler?

3. Are there advantages to employing a purpose built copper manifold (MLT) and a false bottom (kettle) compared to using modified, stainless steel braided connection hosing?

4. I have 2 three-ring-burners that were purchased from a camping store. I have seen pictures of set ups where the burner's appear to have some modifications (extensions?) over the outlet holes... are these necessary or just for expediency?



i have plenty more questions but thats all i can think of for now. i appreciate all the help anyone can provide.
 
1. Plan ahead if you plan to go double batches then get a bigger esky. I got a 70lt and can do 42lts knock out easy I would prob be able to mash close to a 1.100 gravity double batch in there if needed. But 50lt would be fine for singles.

2. You will need ball valves on the HTL, MLT and kettle you will, need a pick up tube on the HTL (This one goes into the centre to try to get as much water out as possible) and one on the kettle this is bent so it sits againts the side of the pot so it will not suck up all the break material. on the esky use a threaded rod or depending on the esky and weather you want to drill a hole in it will determine the fittings used.

Use silicone hose where possible vinyl is ok but really is rated to 60c to attach the hoses you can use barb fittings or rig up standard hose fittings into the ball valves so to take it off just unplug the fittings (use brass)

3. Well the manifold will depend on how you sparge mainly. If batch sparging then a braid is ok as you mix the grain then drain. But if you fly sparge the manifold is the way to go as you need even draining or you will get cracks or channeling and the sugars wont get extracted properly.

For the kettle as said in #2 just bend some SS or cooper pipe and rest it on the wall facing the opposite way you will whirlpool.

4. 3 ring burner will struggle you will need a adjustable reg and will prob go to a spiral after a few batches they are heaps better. The burner has to be spaced right from the pots to get best heat distribution so people make frames or stand them up to suit
 
Agree with everything kelby said apart from the first point.

You can do doubles easily in a 38lt cooler. Mine's 38lt, i do doubles all the time, up to 1.050 (and a bit) - fine for most beers.

My preboil volume is 46.5 lt giving me 42 post boil.
 
Thanks guys,

lots of great advice. as i am looking at starting with a two tap, corny keg beer dispensing system- i might stick with the 50 L cooler for now, thanks big nath.


Kelby Green- i understand what you mean about the directionality of the piping you suggested for the kettle, but what shape should the pipe be bent into?


Also, i had imagined a fly sparge system but after some more thought, i figure that batch sparging might be the best bet for a beginner AG brewer. what do you guys think?

again, thanks for the advice
 
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