Brew Controller Design

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davelovesbeer

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Looking at making a controller for my brewery, and after feedback on my design. I am planning to use the same pot to heat my water and as the kettle. The gear/details I was thinking of is:
- 809 march pump (already have and is part of the existing wiring I have (fuses, 12v supply)
- PID to control a 2200kw element
- 12v digital thermometer
- PT100 temp probes
- 2 switches for the element - one on/off for element from PID, and an overide, if I just want the element on without PID control

Just after feedback:
- design
- 2200kw element OK for 25L boil
- will all this run OK from a single 10A power point

Any other advice is welcome

Thanks

Dave

Dave_control.png
 
you going to run your MarchPump off 12v? never knew they had a 12v range.
 
i run pretty much the same as my herms controller

seeing as though you are switching the element after the pid you could omit the thermometer all together - just turn the element off and leave the pid on. it will show the current temp

also if you ever wanted to do a half batch i'd consider an temp controller like this that you can run inline with the element override circuit so you can control the vigor of your boil

also check out the herms thread for inspirations
 
The Auber PID instructions mention that the element stays live even when the PID is switched off, so they recommend using a double throw switch (which presumably goes before the PID). In addition (and this might just be your diagram) the power for the SSR/Element does not actually go through the PID.
 
If you are really looking to get a good boil from a 2200W element then you are going to want to insulate that sucker really well. I barely to get a decent boil with a 2400W element on that volume.
 
If you are really looking to get a good boil from a 2200W element then you are going to want to insulate that sucker really well. I barely to get a decent boil with a 2400W element on that volume.

+1

I managed it once, insulate the pot well and use a lid on it to get up to the boil. It should just hold a boil then with the lid off. Not ideal but it might get you through.
 
Good point wolfy. I fixed up the diagram for the wiring (SSR)

I wanted a larger element, but with only 10A supply, and wanting to run the other stuff as well, werent sure about a 2400 element with this stuff

May need to check the power in the garage, and see if there is another power outle to run 2 elementst. The one I use only has a double power point - so I guess running 2 say 2000 elements from this would overload it. I do have a mystery extension cord that comes through the wall into the garage, but not sure where the other end is. May have to explore to find out.

Also, just to let everyone know, an electician will be wiring/checking when complete, save burning the house down

Dave_control.png
 
I have no issue obtaining a good rolling boil with only 1 2200 W element and about 33L of wort:
Brewing indoors and the keggle being insulated obviously help, but (given similar circumstances) I don't see why only one element would not work fine.

Here is 33L wort - boiling with 1 element - attempting to escape the 50L keggle yesterday:
Dortmunder2.jpg
 
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Impressive! What sort of insulation?? I'm sure I could search through your 3v build thread.. but thought I might just ask here :)
 
Impressive! What sort of insulation?? I'm sure I could search through your 3v build thread.. but thought I might just ask here :)
I'd have to find that thread, then the individual post about the insulation ... so here it is on my blog: http://blog.bracio.com/2012/06/brewery-bui...insulation.html

It's just a slightly thicker (about an inch thick) version of the more usual camping-mat stuff people use, but I've no idea what it is since I found it on the street (council pickup). :p
 
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