Braumeister - Tips & Tricks

[DeGarre]

Mashing went fine, the rubber seal kept all the grain out of the wort except 2 or 3 that appeared from the center rod in the first few seconds in the beginning. There was no need for the grill and mesh to move up and down with the pump and wort. Got 84% mash efficiency without really sweating it. Happy days!

And thanks again to Mark for sending the seal.

 

[ticinglese]

Anyone noticed the discs that fit in the malt pipe warping over time? Done about a dozen brews and they are warped already.

Despite the wort being pretty clear during mashing and doing a 20min whirlpool after the boil I am getting a cloudy wort in the fermenter. Anyone else getting this? Only things I can think might cause it are the discs mentioned above or when I take the malt pipe out to sparge there is a massive vaccum. Oh and I buy malt ready crushed as I don't have a crusher yet.

TIP: Anyone looking to do big beers or even IPAs the only way is to mash and sparge with water at mash temp rather than mashout temp, then refil the malt pipe with more malt. Great efficiency, and prob only adds less than 2 hours to the brew day, and only 30 mins of that is actual work.

 

[DeGarre]

Anyone noticed the discs that fit in the malt pipe warping over time? Done about a dozen brews and they are warped already.

The wire mesh? Sure, they're all wonky, that's why you tie it to the metal plate/grill on top.

Despite the wort being pretty clear during mashing and doing a 20min whirlpool after the boil I am getting a cloudy wort in the fermenter. Anyone else getting this?

Not here.

Only things I can think might cause it are the discs mentioned above

Don't think so.

or when I take the malt pipe out to sparge there is a massive vaccum.

There is but after 23 brews it doesn't seem to affect the clarity of the wort.

Oh and I buy malt ready crushed as I don't have a crusher yet.

Nice. Makes it easier...

WTF mate, get some Protafloc and stop worrying.

 

[ticinglese]

The wire mesh? Sure, they're all wonky, that's why you tie it to the metal plate/grill on top.

No I mean the plates not the mesh

 

[Wimmig]

Shame CB don't have the reduction fitting / coupler i'm going to do an order and would prefer to order it all in 316 rather than dick around ordering a single bit from China.

 

[Malted]

Shame CB don't have the reduction fitting / coupler i'm going to do an order and would prefer to order it all in 316 rather than dick around ordering a single bit from China.

Most on eBay from China are 306 but at 3 bucks or so with free postage it's pretty easy.

 

[Wimmig]

Most on eBay from China are 306 but at 3 bucks or so with free postage it's pretty easy.

Yeah, they are cheap and easy for 3 odd bucks. Though, i would pay extra for a machined 316 unit instead, the cheapest i could find is around $25 delivered. I might check blackwoods first before getting a cheap one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-x-1-2-MPT-HEX-...=item2eb5c1b977

 

[doon]

Surely there is a plumbing store near you can get it from?

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

I am thinking of doing Ross's summer ale with the 50l malt pipe, but then halving off to do two different hop schedules.

Any reason why I couldn't sit 25l-30l of pre boil wort in a cube while I do the first batch?

 

[Florian]

As long as you start your second boil straight after the first one is finished you should be alright, that's about how long it takes on some systems to finish sparging, anyway.

your other option is to do a full boil with only bittering additions, no chill, then do separate stovetop boils (a la argonaise, search for it) once you're ready to pitch. Will give you two completely different beers fermented at at the same time or after each other.

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

Cheers. You've indrectly pointed out a much better option anyway - send half the wort to my old 30l urn and boil both at the same time.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Last few brews the seal off my 50L malt pipe fall's off when I lift the pipe. I usually remove the pipe and sit it on a bucket to rinse the grain but without the seal the wort just spills over the lid of the braumeister. Really tricky to get the seal back on when the pipe is full. I tried a new seal but same problem. I haven't tried lub yet but looking for some ideas or if anyone else has had this problem?

 

[Florian]

Haven't had that happen yet, although the seal seems to fall off more easily with time.

Only thing I could think of to possibly fix it is to stick some sort of fairly heat resistant masking tape or similar to the bottom of the malt pipe and then the seal over it, hoping that the seal might stay on better. Something along those lines is what I would try.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Haven't had that happen yet, although the seal seems to fall off more easily with time.

Only thing I could think of to possibly fix it is to stick some sort of fairly heat resistant masking tape or similar to the bottom of the malt pipe and then the seal over it, hoping that the seal might stay on better. Something along those lines is what I would try.

I wonder why it comes off over time? I haven't really cleaned in the groove maybe there is a layer inside it causing it to slip off? Although the new seal did the same so im a bit lost. It happens like every other brew.

 

[Batz]

I wonder why it comes off over time? I haven't really cleaned in the groove maybe there is a layer inside it causing it to slip off? Although the new seal did the same so im a bit lost. It happens like every other brew.

I think rather than it slipping off, it is becoming stuck on the bottom and being pulled off when you lift the pipe. They can become a bit sticky, and wash in gentle detergent will fix it.

Batz

 

[zoigl]

Did you check the electric elements, are they off centre? My seals came off a few times, but when I moved the elements apart and and made sure that the seal was not catching, I have not had a re-occurence of the problem. Hope this helps.

 

[lylo]

I got it!! BM 20L came this week!
Getting psyched up now! I really need to know what to expect for a boil off rate. I tried doing a search of the forum but returned waaay to many results/non results. I don't have my 220 wiring done yet to give the 20L a test run but would like to start planning the brewday.
Thanks
Lylo

 

[dicko]

Lyle, have a look at this video if you havent seen it already.
It has been uploaded by a member on here and is very informative.

Check his other two videos as well .... All of them are a good watch and have plenty of accurate info

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=rs4jaopcjsE&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Drs4jaopcjsE

Cheers

 

[tiprya]

I think I get approximately 1.4L per 30 minutes of boil. I have the jacket and boil outside, with a small amount of breeze.

That's what I base my calculations on anyway, and I get pretty close for volume.

 

[lylo]

Thanks guys, I have watched all the videos and read all of the forums known to man about th Braumeister. thas is part of the problem,I can't remember where I read anything, and between the 2-tablets,and 3-computers that I use I hav ebookmarks everywhere.
The general consensus regarding boil off rate seems to run from 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 liters per hr. depending on conditions.I will definetely
do a test run.
Thanks again to everyone.
lyle

 

[tiprya]

For your first brew, just assume at the high end of that (3.5L/hr) and if you get less than that, just dilute with water to your target OG.

I get spot on 86% mash efficiency every time with mine. My mill is set to 1.1mm from memory.

I tend to hit my pre-boil gravity perfectly every time, but have been missing my OG by a few points, so I'm tightening up my calulations relating to boil-off etc to try and get it honed in.

 

[DeGarre]

I currently use a hop spider and also tilt the BM forward in order to get almost all of the wort into the FV. I know Mark sells this dip / pick up tube which would solve the tilting "problem" but would it be possible to attach some kind of a wire mesh thingy to the tube to keep the hops away from the FV and to get rid off the spider?

I assume not every BM user uses hop bags and hop spiders - what would be the best way to keep the hops from the FV ?

Cheers

 

[swiggingpig]

I currently use a hop spider and also tilt the BM forward in order to get almost all of the wort into the FV. I know Mark sells this dip / pick up tube which would solve the tilting "problem" but would it be possible to attach some kind of a wire mesh thingy to the tube to keep the hops away from the FV and to get rid off the spider?

I assume not every BM user uses hop bags and hop spiders - what would be the best way to keep the hops from the FV ?

Cheers

Hi, I use leaf hops and this is what I use on the end of one of Mark's dip tubes to filter the wort before it gets to my plate chiller.

I bought a sheet of mesh, cut off a section of the sheet and formed it round a 15mm copper pipe to make a straight tube. I removed the copper pipe replacing it with some PVC tubing so that I could bend a curve in it without kinking it, removed PVC tube, folded over the ends and made a hole in the side of it just big enough to insert the end of the pickup/dip tube.

 

[lylo]

Do you take all of your volume readings off of the lug at the bottom of the post?

 

[DeGarre]

1 cm per 1 litre on the rod is close enough for me, I just calculate the volume from the top down ie 11 cm rod above the surface is 40-11= 29L and I don't worry about the lug.

 

[lylo]

Thanks DeGarre,typical Aussie upside down logic.

 

[mikk]

I've brewed some pretty big beers in the last few months, & thought it may be of use to share the process & results with other 50L Braumeister users...

#1- Eisbock
OG 1.092
55L mash-in with 10kg grain.
mash schedule 10 min/38 deg, 60 min/ 68 deg
7L sparge at 68 deg

remove malt pipe, dump grain, refill with another 10kg grain, & mash at 68 deg for 60 min, mash out at 76 deg, 9L sparge.
120 min boil, end result of 48L of 1.092 wort.

#2 Imperial Stout
OG 1.097
53L mash-in with 10.3kg grain
mash-in 38 deg, 70 min at 68 deg
4L sparge at 68 deg

remove malt pipe, dump grain, refill with another 10.3kg grain, & mash at 68 deg for 70 min, mash out at 76 deg, 6.5L sparge.
boil length- pretty sure it was 90 min. (If not, then it was 120)
end result 42L of 1.097 wort

#3 Barley wine
OG 1.111
53L mash in with 10.3 kg grain
mash in 38 deg, 75 min at 65 deg, 4L sparge at 65 deg

remove malt pipe, dump grain, refill with another 10.3kg grain, & mash at 65 deg for 90 min, mash out at 76 deg, 4L sparge.
90 min boil
end result 40L wort at 1.101.
0.8kg dextrose & approx 0.6kg LDME added at end of boil gave final OG of 1.111

Pretty big numbers, with maybe about 80-90 mins added to the brew day length.
tips-
440g of pellet hops makes a REALLY big mess. Hops plugs/leaf for the final additions holds the whole mess together pretty well when draining.
Have some LDME on hand in case you don't reach your anticipated gravity
Have fun trying to get rid of ****-loads of spent grain!

 

[tavas]

Does anyone know if MHB is still selling the pickup tube for the Brau? I notice its no longer advertised on his website. i sent a message via the site but no response - he might be on holidays or something.

 

[dicko]

i sent a message via the site but no response - he might be on holidays or something.

That's pretty funny..........

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Dan Pratt]

Does anyone know if MHB is still selling the pickup tube for the Brau? I notice its no longer advertised on his website. i sent a message via the site but no response - he might be on holidays or something.

i woulod suggest that you call him on the landline. he is pretty busy making grain orders these days and wont get to the PC till later in the day id imagine.