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I probably can if your prepared to wait a month. Im annual leave for next month to look after kids while wife travels Europe.
Our office is 10mins from Henlaws. I can just ring them and see if they have any and just pick it up for you. Only cost for you will be what they cost me.

And of course if your happy to pick them up from me. Good excuse to come out to Hargraves Hill for a beer too.

Luke

I am not trying to "look a gift horse in the mouth" but a month is a long time considering that the plates are all that is stopping me from my first brew. Is there any chance that I could pick it up directly from them?

Either way I still believe that a brew down at Hargraves Hill sounds like a fantastic idea that I would like to take up sometime.

I really wish my fabricator mate would accept cash for stainless, the guilt builds up quickly and all this downtime means that I don't have enough beer to give in exchange for favours.
:)
 
I had a quote done up for 2 malt pipes and two 2mm stainless disks made to order

1 x 350 diameter x 430mm height pipe
1 x 350 diameter x 260mm height pipe

2 x 350 diameter x 2mm plates (said around $150 for these)

Was told $700.

This was from a stainless metal working place in Darwin. He was going to make seamless welds and polish them back for food grade standards

I think a lot of the cost would be labour from what I was told screwing around with the weld and polishing it.

Also to be considered that these are Darwin prices that are usually a lot more then anywhere else in the country

It's to expensive for me, might get a quote on getting the stainless rolled and have a friend weld them for me
 
Just thinking about this, perhaps I am best getting my mate to weld a second pipe to my lock-down bar to turn it into a big x like below images.

Current:
outside2.jpg

Modified:
outside3.jpg


I would probably be able to use the plate below at the filter plate...
traytop.jpg


What do you think?
I've posted my solution before, but worth showing again how I solved this one. My rig has been running for more than 18 months now and this was the trickiest part to figure out. I've tried about a dozen different ideas and finally ended on one that works really well and is very simple to do at home.

Check out the blog post link and scroll down a little for 'top filter locking mechanism'.

BrauBushka blog

cheers, Arnie
 
I thought of something this morning. With the temp probe being in the body of the main vessel: when you are ramping up to mash temperature you don't have the malt pipe in the vessel so thermal convection currents should circulate the water somewhat and you should get a fairly even temp range in the entire body of water

With the temp probe being in the pump plumbing wouldn't you need the pump running to circulate water across the temp probe to give you an accurate temp throughout the body of water. I wouldn't think water would circulate through the plumbing by itself.

??

Yeah good point you made! I suppose I could have the pump run while ramping up to mash temp, its only gonna get to temp quicker with the liqour recirculating. I am going to use mathos arduino set up (if I can build it on my limited skill-set) so maybe can play around with the code to have pump on when bringing up to mash temp. Anyway this is why im doing my research now before I start anything, baby steps!
 
I've posted my solution before, but worth showing again how I solved this one. My rig has been running for more than 18 months now and this was the trickiest part to figure out. I've tried about a dozen different ideas and finally ended on one that works really well and is very simple to do at home.

Check out the blog post link and scroll down a little for 'top filter locking mechanism'.

BrauBushka blog

cheers, Arnie


Very interesting indeed... You have put a huge effort into getting that up and running, I wonder whether this would work for me...
 
I am not trying to "look a gift horse in the mouth" but a month is a long time considering that the plates are all that is stopping me from my first brew. Is there any chance that I could pick it up directly from them?

Either way I still believe that a brew down at Hargraves Hill sounds like a fantastic idea that I would like to take up sometime.

I really wish my fabricator mate would accept cash for stainless, the guilt builds up quickly and all this downtime means that I don't have enough beer to give in exchange for favours.
:)


Just give them a ring and ask if they have any offcuts of perforated stainless sheet and how much, they will give you a price straight over phone if you tell them its for cash.

Luke
 
Edak thought might be of some use to you and easy and cheap to implement

ok so in paint only image thing I have loaded

Yellow is the filter plate

Blue is the presure bar that goes across the top of the malt pipe


the white bit in the middle is the top 2 inches of a pot slightly smaller than the malt pipe
filter_assembly.jpg
I think this would spread the load enough to allow the use of a normal guage flat false bottom
 
Edak thought might be of some use to you and easy and cheap to implement

ok so in paint only image thing I have loaded

Yellow is the filter plate

Blue is the presure bar that goes across the top of the malt pipe


the white bit in the middle is the top 2 inches of a pot slightly smaller than the malt pipe
View attachment 55909
I think this would spread the load enough to allow the use of a normal guage flat false bottom

That's really thinking outside the square!

I doubt it will work because the system is still based on a pivot point in the middle, so excess pressure on one half of the bar will result in spillage.
 
oh forgot to add that white bit is welded to the preasure bar and for mine I was thinking of using the same skin fitting as used on the pump inlet/outlet on the false bottom for the central bolt to go through on the filter plate to help keep it on a level plain. And I can't claim this saw it on youtube, and it worked .... 100l system
 
oh forgot to add that white bit is welded to the preasure bar and for mine I was thinking of using the same skin fitting as used on the pump inlet/outlet on the false bottom for the central bolt to go through on the filter plate to help keep it on a level plain. And I can't claim this saw it on youtube, and it worked .... 100l system

Those fittings are relatively expensive and bulky aren't they? If I can't find an alternative I may need to use one of those. I was thinking that there'd be a bard fitting or something like that.

Luke, do you mean Henlor in heidelberg?

EDIT: Spelling
 
Those fittings are relatively expensive and bulky aren't they? If I can't find an alternative I may need to use one of those. I was thinking that there'd be a bard fitting or something like that.

Luke, do you mean Henlor in heidelberg?

EDIT: Spelling

Yep, that's the one. They are usually very good. Just explain what you want and will pay cash.
 
Thanks mate :)

Ok so I went back down to my fav brew equipment store (keg king) and I discovered that their 13mm barb fittings have a perfect 10.2mm ID, which makes them perfect for sliding down my 10mm threaded rod (ie attaching to the bottom plate to keep it in place). Match it with a 1/2" nut and it will be perfect for keeping the base plate in place with NO excess slack!

SCHWWIIIING! This combined with the SS pizza tray pictured earlier completes the lower filter part of the problem!

This is one happy chappy!
 
DARN!

My mate can't get stainless perf for less than $200 sheet and that's not cool. I called Henlor and they outright said that they "don't do any perforated", so they are off the list also.

This is turning out to be more of a PITA than I had hoped.

Steve (Matho) suggested 1.5mm non-perf (with larger cutouts) with the mesh sandwiched in between. That's a good idea but I have done everything so far to make this as accurate as possible so I am not keen to compromise. :(

Still on the hunt.

I think that I will invest in some insulation for this vessel and I hear that neoprene is the stuff to get. Has anyone here used that stuff from clark rubber for this?
 
DARN!

My mate can't get stainless perf for less than $200 sheet and that's not cool. I called Henlor and they outright said that they "don't do any perforated", so they are off the list also.

This is turning out to be more of a PITA than I had hoped.

Steve (Matho) suggested 1.5mm non-perf (with larger cutouts) with the mesh sandwiched in between. That's a good idea but I have done everything so far to make this as accurate as possible so I am not keen to compromise. :(

Still on the hunt.

I think that I will invest in some insulation for this vessel and I hear that neoprene is the stuff to get. Has anyone here used that stuff from clark rubber for this?

Very interesting, if your still looking when I go back to work ill give them a call, I rang them and they had it ready for me to pick in 20mins.

Sorry they weren't helpfull.
 
Very interesting, if your still looking when I go back to work ill give them a call, I rang them and they had it ready for me to pick in 20mins.

Sorry they weren't helpfull.

I picked up an offcut of 2mm ss perforated plate for $50 from Geordi in Cheltenham . I haven't used it yet it is 505mm x 80mm . If this suites pm me and you can have it for what I paid for it .Or give Geordi a ring .
 
Edak, on my contraption I have used Crim Safe mesh for the bottom filter and sort of in the process of doing the top plate out of the same stuff.
Have you considered an 'H' instead of a "X'. I have come up with this and found that locks down the eadges faily well.
I'll try and upload a pic.
 
hey hey Brisfox, you have already done my idea. I am going to have a clamping system from the top to avoid having a threaded rod run the whole way down the inner pot. Actually looks VERY similar to the system I have been designing in my head... Nice one.

Any design flaws or things to watch put for?
 
DARN!

My mate can't get stainless perf for less than $200 sheet and that's not cool. I called Henlor and they outright said that they "don't do any perforated", so they are off the list also.

This is turning out to be more of a PITA than I had hoped.

Steve (Matho) suggested 1.5mm non-perf (with larger cutouts) with the mesh sandwiched in between. That's a good idea but I have done everything so far to make this as accurate as possible so I am not keen to compromise. :(

Still on the hunt.

I think that I will invest in some insulation for this vessel and I hear that neoprene is the stuff to get. Has anyone here used that stuff from clark rubber for this?

Edak, I recently got in contact with http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ their site doesnt seem to have a way for aussies to order so I contacted them through their ebay store all their false bottoms are made from 1.59mm perf and they will cut to size. Including ship for one was around $100. I have a domed falsey I am going to use for the bottom plate. Hope this helps
 
Edak, on my contraption I have used Crim Safe mesh for the bottom filter and sort of in the process of doing the top plate out of the same stuff.
Have you considered an 'H' instead of a "X'. I have come up with this and found that locks down the eadges faily well.
I'll try and upload a pic.

ok I gotta ask what does the missus think of the hole in the screen door!!! :ph34r:
Really how/ where did you get a sheet of that?
 

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