Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[matho]

well im brewing tonight and it looks like top filter plate problem is fixed I'm using an IKEA splater guard and i cut out larger slots in the filter plate



so far so good ill post a pic of the filter plate later

cheers matho

 

[matho]

what it looks like 45 min into the mash



cheers

 

[blotto]

Wicked trying to decide how to make the filter plates has given me a lot to think about, I like the look of the slots you have there it looks to me like the plate will hold its strength well. I have ordered a sheet of ss304: 2mm x 300 x300mm and 1 x ss304: 1.5mm x 300 x300mm but it's not perforated. I'm thinking that if the 2mm is too thick Ill order another 1.5mm sheet as it's only $14.85 from All Things Stainless

That looks great it's so clear!

Good luck with the rest of your brew night! :beerbang:

 

[blotto]

What sort of crush are you using for your grain matho? The bloke at TWOC in Bibra Lake said to use a very coarse crush when using a braumeister (My brother bought the 50L)

Cheers and Beers

Tristan

 

[matho]

yeah i took my mill out by about .2mm today to see if that would help as well, the braumiester manual calls for a course crush as well

the brew is going well just coming up to the boil, it looks like i got over 80% extract efficiency

cheers matho

 

[ForkBoy]

Matho et al, your builds have inspired me to set up a 20L system along the same lines - looks great!

I really want a clean in place setup with as little lifting as possible, so this will be a primary objective in my designs. Leaning toward the BCS-460 for control.

A question on elements though. I have 3 phase power available, and I'm wondering if a low density single 3600W element would be too much power and cause scorching or localised denaturing during the mash? is it better to go 2 x 1800W?

Or is 3600W overkill, and keeping it to 10A/2400W would be fine?

 

[matho]

forkboy,

I made up a spreadsheet that work out temp rise and element wattage and also took into account losses through the top of the pot


View attachment element_sizing.xls

up the top you enter the volume and wattage, don't worry about the percentage loss, then down the bottom enter the intial temp and steps required and right down the bottom enter the opening of your pot.

Now when i use the braumiser I have the lid on until I boil so the losses through the top of the pot are alot lower, with 11.5l of water and 2.2kg of grain i get about 2.2 deg/min temp rise with a 1.75KW element, also after I remove the malt pipe I sparge with about 6l of water so the volume goes up to 15l, so the spreadsheet can't represent all that but it will give you an idea.

A 2.4 kw will work, it will just take a little longer, the good thing about it is you can use it anywhere. A 3.6kw element would make the brewday faster but you will need a dedicated circuit to run it, with the braumiser a simple single infusion 60min mash and a 72 deg 10min mashout step takes me 3.5 hrs from start to completely packed away and very little work in between.

You will not regret making one, brewday's haven't been more easy it's kind of set and forget but you still get the fun of AG brewing.

all the best

matho

edit: Don't forget to post Pic's when your finished

 

[DJR]

Saw the unit in the flesh on the weekend, it's a good little unit and you've done a great job choosing all the components and building.

Next step automated sparge and chill

 

[ForkBoy]

That's great matho! Love the adjustment for the opening...

So it looks like 2.4KW looks fine until you get to bringing 32L up to boil which is over 45 minutes (with no lid). I could use a lid, but we've all suffered the dreaded boil-over, and with an unattended brew that's a likelyhood!

Perhaps I'll start with 2.4KW and add another 1.2KW if it's too weak.


In terms of cleaning, is there anything you would change in your design?

 

[matho]

Saw the unit in the flesh on the weekend, it's a good little unit and you've done a great job choosing all the components and building.

Next step automated sparge and chill

hehe I don't want a fully automated brewery, you will have to come over soon and we will do a brew on it mate :icon_cheers:

That's great matho! Love the adjustment for the opening...

So it looks like 2.4KW looks fine until you get to bringing 32L up to boil which is over 45 minutes (with no lid). I could use a lid, but we've all suffered the dreaded boil-over, and with an unattended brew that's a likelyhood!

Perhaps I'll start with 2.4KW and add another 1.2KW if it's too weak.


In terms of cleaning, is there anything you would change in your design?

I'm really happy with how easy it is to clean, being able to remove the pump helps alot, as for the element I'm able to just wipe it clean with a sponge, the only thing that is slightly a PITA is where the element coils come close to each other I would try and leave at least a 1cm gap so you can wipe all the element clean

cheers matho

 

[blotto]

I have a 3k element in my 50L pot that I plan on turning into a braumiser when I get the time, if I get the time :unsure:

I did a BIAB in the pot today and it got 35L of wort to a nice gentle rolling boil no worries One of those copper hoods that Braumeister sells would help get it boiling a bit faster but I'm happy with how its going at the moment.

 

[ForkBoy]

Hi all,

thermalproducts.com.au say they can supply a 2400W element with a 90 degree bend in the "no bend" zone ($94+$15 delivery). That will create a really low profile for the element and reduce the minimum wort required.

Now, am I pushing it a bit running 2400W + march pump + brewtroller off a 10A circuit? They're next step down in off-the-shelf elements is 2000W, which is fair step down.

Cheers

 

[matho]

nah you should be right, a march pump runs at 0.7 amps and the brewtroller would be almost next to nothing at 240v, when your mashing the element will not be on all the time and when it is for the boil the pump will be off, the power point should be able to handle, the wiring will be and the circuit protection, if its a CB will most likely be rated at 20A and if its a fuse it should be rated at 16A, with the element turning on and off with the PID your not running 10A continuous. All this is assuming that you have 240 at the power point, it will me more likely some where in between 220v and 240v.

cheers

 

[blotto]

Yeah I have my 3000w element on a 10a circuit, the cheep cable I got from the big green shed was getting a little warm so I'm going to beef that up but you'll be right for sure! Just be aware that if that circuit happens to be on with the kitchen or any other circuit that might be loaded up you could trip the breaker. Just reset and avoid running the kettle until your boil is done

 

[AlexL]

Well I had my first brewday today on my new system (5 months after I started the build).
Everything went exactly to plan, which surpirsed me!
I brewed a Dr Smurtos Golden Ale with 3kg grains and 18L starting water - I probably ended up with around 8-9L of wort, which seems a little low to me.
I'm still having issues with my Brewtroller setup. The first board I received had a short in the outputs and the second board won't pick up my temperature sensors. As such this was a completely manual brew with only on/off control on the element which is probably why I lost so much liquid during the boil. I tasted the wort while hot and it was quite bitter, my initial hop addition calculations my have been off. I haven't measured the FG yet but will do so before pitching and adjust with extra water if needed.

Things I would do differently:
I would try and source a SS pot instead of the aluminium pot I have.
I would spend more time bending my element (with a pipe bender!) so that it sits lower in the pot allowing for smaller batches if needed.

A huge thanks to matho for his help with the thermowell.

 

[matho]

Well I had my first brewday today on my new system (5 months after I started the build).
Everything went exactly to plan, which surpirsed me!
I brewed a Dr Smurtos Golden Ale with 3kg grains and 18L starting water - I probably ended up with around 8-9L of wort, which seems a little low to me.
I'm still having issues with my Brewtroller setup. The first board I received had a short in the outputs and the second board won't pick up my temperature sensors. As such this was a completely manual brew with only on/off control on the element which is probably why I lost so much liquid during the boil. I tasted the wort while hot and it was quite bitter, my initial hop addition calculations my have been off. I haven't measured the FG yet but will do so before pitching and adjust with extra water if needed.

Things I would do differently:
I would try and source a SS pot instead of the aluminium pot I have.
I would spend more time bending my element (with a pipe bender!) so that it sits lower in the pot allowing for smaller batches if needed.

A huge thanks to matho for his help with the thermowell.

looks good Alex, I had the same issue with bending the element myself, next time I'm going to ask if the can bend it for me
its a bugger about the brewtroller, you'll get it working no doubt, I have been looking at the brewtroller over the last couple of week, its a unit that is packed full of features.
By the way what is wrong with the ali pot?

again good job cheers steve

 

[AlexL]

The only concern I have with the Alu pot is long term galvanic corrosion as I'm using brass and SS fittings.
The DIY elements seem like a no-brainer but it's easier said than done to bend an element in a neat circle - I would have also chosen a shorter element as I have it overlapping a third time for about 10cm. However I might try and fix this by putting in a couple of S-bends. I have seen a Braumeister element and it looks pretty schmick.
All the features on the Brewtroller was the reason I chose it - the support from Jeremiah has been great (he sent me the second board free of charge). I think I've been unlucky with the boards as most of the other guys are having no problems with it.

 

[claypot]

I fully understand people wanting a hand made one...... they do look the goods...... but for those who want a ready bought one....... i just ordered one of these for mine.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_pag...2cc7484ccf182f0

30 programable steps, dual alarm relays, Analogue output to run one of these:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_pag...;products_id=30

That puppy is good for 9600w @ 240v and there is a 25A good for 6000w @ 250v for $15

Going to fit it to one of these:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_pag...products_id=224

cost about $150 delivered.

They have temp probes, flashing alarm buzzers ( i ordered one of these too ) and other cool stuff.

cheers

Hey Tony,
I am looking to start a build shortly, and really like the idea of the ramp/ soak.
I have noticed on a few American forums thay reckon that these are no good for the boil as they don't have a manual function.
I only know enough to be dangerous about PID's, but would of thought you could still use them for the boil?
Or is it that in manual you can control the boil vigor more finely?
Any one got any feed back?
Thanks and Regards,
Clayton.

 

[seamad]

Clayton, i use one on my system. I have a crown urn( pictures in blackdog brewhouse on this forum...should of put them here). I did have the non ramp one at first and liked the % output to control the boil, however i find the ramp model works fine. My boil is between 98/99 C, ( live on a mountain) so i just set it for 99, urn still cycles on/ off but decent boil.
Not as much control but works on my system + ramp/ soak feature makes up for it. The basic pid is pretty cheap so could have both in the control box and switch at boil.
Cheers
Sean

 

[claypot]

Clayton, i use one on my system. I have a crown urn( pictures in blackdog brewhouse on this forum...should of put them here). I did have the non ramp one at first and liked the % output to control the boil, however i find the ramp model works fine. My boil is between 98/99 C, ( live on a mountain) so i just set it for 99, urn still cycles on/ off but decent boil.
Not as much control but works on my system + ramp/ soak feature makes up for it. The basic pid is pretty cheap so could have both in the control box and switch at boil.
Cheers
Sean

Hi Sean,
Thanks mate, just checked out your thread, awsome set up mate well done. I'm on night shift at the mo so have be reading so many different posts and sites that it has all blended into one I'm afraid!
Looks like the ramp soak PID is the go, and as you said a basic PID is cheap so I think I will go with ramp soak for mash and second PID and probe for boil.
Thanks again mate.
Cheers Clayton.