Braumeister Clone (UK)

[barneey]

As I have already built a 20ltr in the past I thought I would share my current 50ltr build.

I have my name down on the list for a new Aussie Control Unit

Cheers

 

[barneey]

 

[dicko]

Hi barneey,

Great looking unit, I like the plumbing...very neat.
Did you buy a genuine BM malt pipe?
Is the ball valve necessary on the wort return?
Is the controller the one being supplied on this forum from Lael?
Keep us all posted mate it looks like a great build.

Cheers

 

[barneey]

Hi barneey,

Great looking unit, I like the plumbing...very neat.
Did you buy a genuine BM malt pipe?
Is the ball valve necessary on the wort return?
Is the controller the one being supplied on this forum from Lael?
Keep us all posted mate it looks like a great build.

Cheers

Cheers,

Yes both the Malt Tubes are genuine BM units, one advantage of building a 50ltr unit is that you can readily buy both the 20 & 50ltr tubes (from Europe).

On my previous 20ltr build I had to get a 20ltr malt tube fabricated @ a cost of £100.00 (included the screens).

The two malt tubes for this build set me back £175.00, I will make the screens myself from some perorated sheet.

I`ve never used a Chugger pump for a BM Clone so want some control (just in case), the valve however may not be needed in which case I will swap it out for a straight piece of pipe.

Yes the controller will be one made by Lael, the trouble I`ve found in the past with a Matho PCB is that you normally need to by the components in bulk (packs of 5 / 10) so to save all the hassle / experimentation the product Lael is making looks more than ideal as a unit.

My ultimate aim is to build a 50BM clone for way less than an original & have the option of brew size.

I recently sold my original BM on to fund this project.

Cheers

Ps forgot the pic of the 20lt Malt pipe.

 

[Cervantes]

Now that's looking cool...........

I have a genuine 20L BM, but am planning to build another using an old 50L Keg. That way I can brew two different beers at the same time.

I am also down for one of Lael's controllers.

Where did you get the element material from to bend yourself? How will you power it up? I'm a complete electrical dunce.

I'll be following this build very keenly.

 

[barneey]

Bare in mind I`m from the UK so most parts will be sourced from the UK / Europe

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/CATERING-EQUIPMENT-SPARE-PARTS/_i.html?_nkw=ROD+HEATING+&submit=Search&_sid=71326961 for the heating element, which is secured by compression gland fittings. I will wait for the controller to see how it can be wired in. The rod elements are easily bent by hand and for the tighter radius a pipe bender (brakes) can be used.

 

[Cervantes]

Barneey,

Thanks for that. Which model did you buy?

I appreciate that I'll need to work out the length for myself based on my keg diameter, but was interested to see which wattage you went with.

 

[barneey]

As I intend to use the unit for both 20 & 50 litre brews I went for a 3000 watt. / 8 ft (2.4m) element, so quite low density. so wattage wise between an original 20 & 50 BM unit.

 

[barneey]

A little update on my build, holding down bar now cut and drilled.

I`ve been trying to think of an easy way to make a stand for the thing to sit on + house the pump & control box.

May well have found the ideal answer in an up turned 70ltr standard stock pot, this now gives a rim height of 1.10m + plenty of room for everything else.

 

[dicko]

Another good idea barneey and a good fit.

I would be considering some ventilation and air flow for the Chugger.
It has been reported in Australia that they can overheat.

Cheers

 

[barneey]

Cheers,

I think some sort of mechanical ventilation (computer fans) might be the best way forward albeit maybe more complicated than need be. The trouble with one of builds its all trial and error, so very much open to any suggestions.

 

[dicko]

Another good idea barneey and a good fit.

I would be considering some ventilation and air flow for the Chugger.
It has been reported in Australia that they can overheat.

Cheers

Cheers,

I think some sort of mechanical ventilation (computer fans) might be the best way forward albeit maybe more complicated than need be. The trouble with one of builds its all trial and error, so very much open to any suggestions.

I made mention of the overheating in case you were thinking of just using the bottom pot without cutting the sides out.

You could probably shape it similar to the Braumeister legs and that may be sufficient.

 

[angus_grant]

The original Aus chugger had some problems with thermal overloads. That was fixed in a subsequent release. That being said, they still run quite hot and I don't think you'd want to enclose them. My current build just has the pump sitting on my bench next to pots, but will eventually be mounted to metal brew frame. I am hoping being attached to a metal frame will be a heat sink of some sorts.

The UK chugger might be different to the Aus chugger.

 

[Cervantes]

Barnee,

What are skin / bulkhead fitting that you have used for the pump suction and discharge through the bottom of the pot?

Very neat looking on the onside and easy clean.

Cheers
Andy

 

[barneey]

Barnee,

What are skin / bulkhead fitting that you have used for the pump suction and discharge through the bottom of the pot?

Very neat looking on the onside and easy clean.

Cheers
Andy

They are called
SKIN FITTING SS316 1/2"BSPx60mmLONG Part Number 403523
from a company in the UK http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/403523/stainless-steel-threaded-skin-fitting-403523
As most stainless bits originate from China they can be sourced from all over the world so you should find a supplier in your area.

 

[lael]

Your main pot is fantastic! Where did you get that one and what volume & dimensions is it?

 

[barneey]

It was a one off purchase from ebay, I had been looking for ages for a suitable donor pot, the critical dimension (to mimic an original) is the diameter which is 450mm the height is a little higher than a 50 BM unit at 650mm (100ltr pot).

Its a pharmaceutics pot which had been used for the storage of distilled water & is of very quality.

Just one note a standard stainless Bergland 70ltr pot (easily available) has the same diameter so if you only wanted a 20BM unit , the additional 20BM malt tube could be bought and the match would also be perfect, rather than try and replicate the size of an original 20BM pot. (ie you don't then have to mess around making malt tubes - which IMHO is the biggest hurdle on the mechanical side of things).

 

[barneey]

Top and Bottom screen made

 

[lael]

Yeah, that is the perfect size pot in my calculations. Allows a 600mm malt pipe which is slightly taller than a brau one but shouldn't impact fluidization.

Your plates look great! What is the ring around the outside you've used and what are the parts you've placed in center hole? Very neat so far!

 

[barneey]

The central (pull down rod) for the build is 12mm diameter to which I threaded the top and bottom (a pet hate of mine is using threaded rod as its APITA to clean after a brew), anyway the 12mm diameter rod is a very good fit for stainless 3/8 threaded fittings. http://www.bes.co.uk/products/165a.asp part number 14473 + lock nuts. If your careful you can drill a hole through the perforated plate slight less than the tapered thread on the nipple, than a standard ss washer with the lock nut just pulls everything together. I would silver soldier the bits but fear of heat distortion put an end to that idea.

The tube around the outside is standard 3/16 beerline which may be swapped for some "u" channel silicone.

I just need to fit the element, then fingers crossed everything is ready for testing and perhaps a standard 67c mash + boil (manual made = no controller ) to make sure everything is running correctly, then its job done really , apart from making a hop filter which will either mimic the BM one or maybe a stainless hoop with meshbag, that will depend on if I use a plate chiller or IC unit to reach pitch temp.

 

[dicko]

Keep us posted on how it goes barneey,

Here is a great design for a hop basket which lets you use an immersion chiller around the outside of it.
The unit is specifically made for the Braumeister as you can see it fits onto the centre rod

Stainless mesh hop sock

 

[Cervantes]

The central (pull down rod) for the build is 12mm diameter to which I threaded the top and bottom (a pet hate of mine is using threaded rod as its APITA to clean after a brew), anyway the 12mm diameter rod is a very good fit for stainless 3/8 threaded fittings. http://www.bes.co.uk/products/165a.asp part number 14473 + lock nuts. If your careful you can drill a hole through the perforated plate slight less than the tapered thread on the nipple, than a standard ss washer with the lock nut just pulls everything together. I would silver soldier the bits but fear of heat distortion put an end to that idea.

How does the cost of these parts compare with buying the filters pre-made from Speidel when you buy the malt pipe?

Brilliant work by the way. Definitely the inspiration I need to get started on my clone.

 

[barneey]

Keep us posted on how it goes barneey,

Here is a great design for a hop basket which lets you use an immersion chiller around the outside of it.
The unit is specifically made for the Braumeister as you can see it fits onto the centre rod

Stainless mesh hop sock

Cheers for the website addy, I`ve seen a few bits on eBay (more than likely the same supplier), I see they do a BM 20ltr unit but cant see one for a 50BM, has anyone asked / got one made up?

 

[dicko]

There is a link on another forum for the 50 litre unit.

I will see if I can find it

 

[barneey]

How does the cost of these parts compare with buying the filters pre-made from Speidel when you buy the malt pipe?

Brilliant work by the way. Definitely the inspiration I need to get started on my clone.

I was lucky enough to buy a sheet of this for the build http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261516549295&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123 which I collected on a round trip with the pot.

I think speidel do sell the filter plates but at a cost of £50.00 each! they are rather expensive. If you have access to a jigsaw and bench grinder they can be made easily enough (3hrs for the pair).I also think speidel sale the floppy stainless filters (£12 each!) but again an EBay search will produce lots of stuff that can be cut with a pair of scissors.

As for the "Brilliant work by the way" well its near enough a clone of the original mechanics so its very much a meccano bolt together exercise. I`m more impressed with the BM builds on this site that have started to re-invent things. & the control unit is a little beyond me (fat fingers) hence I have my name on the "lael" list.

Cheers

 

[dicko]

These guys make a 50 litre model for $110.00 I believe but it is not on their web site you have to contact them and talk to a guy named Chad I believe.

http://arborfab.com/

 

[barneey]

Cheers have sent them a message, so will wait for a reply.

I do also have some large diameter stainless tube so might just make a standard "tube with hop bag" supported via 3 tripod lid legs (another meccano exercise). My problem is that I can silver solder but have yet to learn the art of welding (especially with thin stainless objects).

 

[JB]

Ps forgot the pic of the 20lt Malt pipe.

Can I ask a few rookie questions - or just send me off to the relevant thread/s or location if this has been previously covered & done to death ...

It looks like the malt pipe has a rubber(?) edge that sits flat on the base of the pot? How do DIY folk normally build the non genuine malt pipes, wouldn't malt pipe steel on pot steel cause an issue down the track?

Also, does the element coil then sit underneath the malt pipe?

And, where does the temp probe normally sit? I've seen them fitted to a t-piece on the wort out fitting, not sure where this would live in barneey's setup though?

My understanding:
The wort returns from the pump back into the pot through the 2 return fittings in the base of the pot, because the malt pipe base sits flush on pot that causes the returned wort to flow up through the grain then flow out & over the top of the malt pipe back into the pot.

My question:
What's the clearance from the base of the pot to the bottom filter in the malt pipe?

 

[MastersBrewery]

Can I ask a few rookie questions - or just send me off to the relevant thread/s or location if this has been previously covered & done to death ...

It looks like the malt pipe has a rubber(?) edge that sits flat on the base of the pot? How do DIY folk normally build the non genuine malt pipes, wouldn't malt pipe steel on pot steel cause an issue down the track?

Also, does the element coil then sit underneath the malt pipe?

And, where does the temp probe normally sit? I've seen them fitted to a t-piece on the wort out fitting, not sure where this would live in barneey's setup though?


My understanding:
The wort returns from the pump back into the pot through the 2 return fittings in the base of the pot, because the malt pipe base sits flush on pot that causes the returned wort to flow up through the grain then flow out & over the top of the malt pipe back into the pot.

My question:
What's the clearance from the base of the pot to the bottom filter in the malt pipe?

okay
1 The rubber is actually silicone, some people like me have made their malt pipe the same diameter as Speidel and use their seal, the alternative is to slit some silicone hose.
2 Coil element sits out side the malt pipe, although on the original 50L there are two and the second smaller element is only used for the boil and sits inside the malt pipe under the bottom FB.
3 In the Original it sits inside the malt pipe under the bottom FB, most clones have it outside the Malt Pipe close to the wort inlet
4 On the original it's 110mm (from memory) on most clones it's less (lots less, mine is set for 30mm)

If your thinking of building a clone there is a wealth of information across about 3 or 4 threads on this site, let me know if you want some links( be prepared for a week or two of reading)

MB

 

[barneey]

I think most of the questions have been answered, I have loaned out the 20 & 50 litre Malt Tubes at the moment which are of a different size to a stand alone 20 litre unit.

I can however let you have all the dims of the original 20 litre unit one.