Thanks Mark, I am brewing a Coopers Larger extract kit and just wanted to add a kilo of grain, to give it a lift. I presume the extract has hops in it already.I think I post this about every 2-3 months, short answer is yes. You really do need to boil for 60-19 minutes for most beers so don't even try short boils if your aim is to make the best beer you can.
Sorry I tend to think all grain, if you are talking about kits it might be a different answer.
What sort of wort are you making that hasn't got hops in it?
Thanks guys, I’m happy to boil for longer if it makes a better beer. It makes sense that it kills the bacteria.Davo - you still want to boil your sweet water (that's what its called before it becomes wort), if for no other reason than to sterilise it. Anyone who has done an AG brew or two will know how bad the expended malt gets in a day or two, that's because mash temperatures wont kill Lacto bacteria on the grain, unboiled sweet water will almost guarantee an infected brew. There are very good reasons to boil for longer but a 15 minute boil should see to sterilisation. Read the info I posted above, there are lots of things going on in the boil and they all affect the final beer. In this case where the sweet water is such a small part of the whole, it wont make as much difference as it would in a full volume AG brew.
I doubt you will get enough extract from 1kg of malt to make your usual alcohol, 1kg of grain at best might give 760g of extract, that wont be all fermentable like sugar is and its unlikely you will get all of the ~760g, what's called efficiency is how good you are at getting out the available extract and most think ~80% is a good start. Best to check with an hydrometer to see how much you get and adjust accordingly.
I'm going to disagree with a couple of things.
First, there might be lots of writings by armature/home brewers saying that 30 minute boils are adequate, you wont find any in researched or professional literature. There are ways to speed up boiling in commercial brewing, things like vacuum boiling, Merlin boilers... but we are talking about seriously expensive gear.
Breweries consider this sort of investment worthwhile because Energy is probably the biggest single cost in brewhouse operation, brewers know they cant make the best beer without big investments or longer boils.
Same for fermentation, if you want to make the best Lager it needs to be brewed cold. Again cooling is the biggest cost in fermentation and cellar operations. Pro-brewers aren't all stupid and they will save a bunch of money if they can.
Remember the excitement a couple of yeast ago when Carlton tried to reduce the alcohol by a fraction of a percent, that fraction of a % was worth something like $25M a year to them, so yes they notice the small change.
Yes you can make beer by cutting corners, use cheap malt, use lots of sugar, heaps of adjunct, add hops as iso-extract after lagering, shorter boils, warmer ferments.... but there is a price to be payed, you end up making beer more like the crap I home brew to avoid.
it isn't dogma, its well researched and tested, brewing is a science and an art, a bit like architecture, you can draw a pretty building but it still needs to be structurally sound.
Great advice, thank you Mark.Probably not necessary, there is also a good reason to be careful if you are boiling extract (LME/DME).
When wort is very concentrated its very easy to get scorching, doesn't take much to make an otherwise good brew taste burnt. If you boil concentrated wort you will get lots of Milliard reactions, means it can darken very quickly and develop typical toffee/caramel flavours.
As is so often the case in brewing it isn't a right/wrong either/or answer, developing colour and flavour might be desirable in some beers. You have chosen at do a very pale beer so perhaps not. but its an interesting technique to experiment with if you want an amber beer.
This is some of what I truly love about brewing, I remember talking to and old pro-brewer and he dropping "of course" into a conversation (often). As is in "you could do that but of course then this will happen..."All very nonbinary".
Doing a test batch of a new extra pale for work last Thursday, changed the L:G (liquor to grist or water to grain) ratio pretty dramatically (close to no sparge) it affects not only the colour but how fermentable the wort will be, which is dependant on the ratio of higher sugars to simple ones, that affects the maltyness and body so you have to adjust the bitterness...
Might be able to spend the rest of my life mucking around making beer.