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Bit Of Advise On Asahi K&k Clone

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rharlow

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Hey all, trying not to flog a dead horse and here but I have a question about the asahi k&k from brewcraft, I've done a search have read whay I could about the kits but would like some clarification.

First of the recipe:
Beermakers larger
Brew blend #10 - beer enhancer
500mls japanese blond malt extract
15g hallertau infusion bag
15g saaz infusion bag
S-23 saflager yeast

It's been in the fermenter for 3 weeks now at about 12 degrees. The og was a little high, 1.048 where the recipe says 1045 so not too concerned about that, over the last few days it has sat around 1.010 although I left the last sample in the test tube for the day and it looked to have dropped to 1.070 where the instructions say 1012-1014. Concern is the dry enzyme that goes in, shouldn't the fg be around 1.000. I asked 2 different people at 2 different brewshops both operating under the same name and got different answers, one (whom I siding with) agreed that yes try and get it as close to 1 as possible, the other said, no it needs to be bottled or it will oxidize, 1010 wont give bottle bombs.

My plan is to warm it up a bit and give it a couple more days then cold crash for a few days to a week,is that too long to be in the fermenter? I dont have a secondary and have checked my hydrometer and it sits at 1 in tap water
 

Fish13

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warm it up to 14 degree's and then bottle after 2 days. a slight diacetyl rest.

or you could bottle it now as it has finished. beer has unfermentables that make it not get down to 1.000 (very simple explanation). second homebrew shop is right.
 

kelbygreen

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one the LHBS guy is alright the other know shit!. since you added dry emzyme leave it longer. If you warmed a sample and it got down to 1007 then this is what you are aiming for and coz its a lager it wont hurt to warm it up to 17deg for a DR this will finish it off faster and clean up heaps better.

You will not oxidise the beer unless you introduce oxigen into the beer by mixing it or by thrashing it about.

dry emzymes can be harmful to people that dont know how to use them and they are not used but brewers that know a fair bit about brewing. So the best bet is to wait, warm it up and check gravity in 3 days if its the same CC if its different check in 3 more days and repeat till its the same. Dont rush it it will be fine. I had a lager ferment for 3 weeks and CC for 2.5 week all in the primary and it was the best beer I made before going to AG and even then the best lager I made. I spent the time to do it right and it was great. I have done 2 lager AG they where good but if I spent the time like the kit one I done it would of been so much better.

Edit:

I done 2.5 weeks CC from the records lol
 

bum

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(very simple explanation)
So simple that it ignores the fact that the brew has dry enzyme in it.

Sounds like you've got a handle on what the issues are, Russ. You can usually grab a fermenter from Bunnings for something like $16 - really worth thinking about because racking can make a big difference for a stuck ferment.

If not an option, 4 weeks is the rough amount of time people talk about as being "safe" for primary but I'm not sure how keen I'd be to push it. At the same time, bottling up to 10 points early is also a pretty terrible idea.

You just need to make some sort of compromise and work out what level of risk you're willing to wear.

Best of luck with it.

[EDIT: typedo]
 

ShredMaster

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Very bad advice is a blanket rule that "1.010 will not give bottle bombs". I'm sorry, that is incorrect.

Bottle bombs are due to the fermentation continuing which produces CO2 which is absorbed into the liquid up to the point that the liquid builds up pressure as it cannot absorb any more CO2 hence putting pressure on the container (bottle) to the point that the bottle may explode or the top of the bottle flies off and the liquid gushes out.

As kelby said, oxidisation will occur if you introduce oxygen and shake the shit out of it to expose the fermented liquid to that oxygen. The fermentation process (including bottle fermentation or carbonation) uses CO2 and NOT oxygen therefore no oxidisation is relevant to being bottled, unless you expose the liquid to oxygen which is not a by-product of any fermenting.

Tell the odd homebrew shop that they are wrong, wait for their reaction and /giggle. You won't change their mindset but you may be able to get them to think about it and read up on it further.

Do not trust that any FG reading is "ready to bottle" until you are sure that fermentation is COMPLETE!!!

Good luck!!

Cheers,
Shred.
 

Brewman_

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If you have added an enzyme satchel, you would expect a FG of around 1.000 as you originally said. Eventually. So as previously stated bottles will explode if bottled at 1.010.

Seems strange to add an enzyme in that kit?

Take 100mls from the fermenter and put it in your hydrometer tube with hydrometer in a warm, not hot, place for 2 to 3 days and see how low it goes - wait until it stops dropping. That will be your target FG, I think thats what Kelbygreen said.
Fear_n_loath
 

rharlow

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Thanks for the quick replies guys, I thought I'd quickly check before crashing for the night and glad I did, I'll sleep better for it tonight and raise a glass to ya's tomorrow
 

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