Beer Line - what diameter?

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thisispants

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Hi,

I'm looking at getting beer / gas line for my first kegging setup.

A quick question regarding the line.....

1. Will all the different types of beer line 5mm/8mm, 5mm/8mm, 6mm/8mm fit on my corny keg?

2. What size line should I get, and why?

3. Do you connect the tubing directly to the ball lock disconnect or is there another small bit I need inbetween them?

4. Are the beer / gas lines meant to be the same diameter?

5. Not line related....but tap related.....should I get a tap, a pluto gun or a picnic tap? I like the idea of a tap because it means no messy beer line in the fridge and I can pour straight from the keg..... does it really matter or just personal preference?

Thanks, Sorry for what must be really basic questions for you guys.

Thanks.

Don
 
I'm also interested in responses tot his :)

Currently building my keezer, just sealing the wood now.

I went with same for both gas and beer, from memory it is ID of 5mm, as from what i read this was the best size for my set up and not having to have massive amounts of metres coiled up.

R,

John
 
This is mostly anecdotal based on what I have and what the guys at keg king told me...


1. Will all the different types of beer line 5mm/8mm, 5mm/8mm, 6mm/8mm fit on my corny keg?
It's the connections you have on your keg that it would need to fit - not the keg itself.

2. What size line should I get, and why?
I have 5mm recommended by Keg King... I don't know why - but whatever you choose you can use this calculator to figure out how long to make it: http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
Fatter = longer line.

3. Do you connect the tubing directly to the ball lock disconnect or is there another small bit I need inbetween them?
Straight onto the barb

4. Are the beer / gas lines meant to be the same diameter?
They don't have to be, but it's probably easier to have all the same size so you can use the same size clamps. (Also, don't forget your clamps!)
I use a softer line for the gas. I don't remember why, but it's easier with it being more flexible. It also doesn't have to be any longer than you need to get to the gas bottle.

5. Not line related....but tap related.....should I get a tap, a pluto gun or a picnic tap? I like the idea of a tap because it means no messy beer line in the fridge and I can pour straight from the keg..... does it really matter or just personal preference?
I think it's personal preference, but having a real tap is so ******* cool! The novelty of pouring your own beer still hasn't worn off for me.
 
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Do some searching and reading. There is more than ample information out there explaining how to do this on both this forum and the internet at large. It is more complicated than just whacking some tube in.
 
check out line resistance, it is your friend. you are trying to avoid the C02 from getting dissassociated. Line resistance from smaller ID assists in this.
 
I'd go with a 4mm inner diameter line. You can get away with shorter lengths.

It is a bit harder to get onto barbs though. Not an issue if you use John Guest push fittings.
 
Would recommend 4mm ID line. I use about 5 metres of that and pour very nice @ about 13-15psi.
 
For those who are really space restricted, you can always use these John Guest inline flow restrictors. About $30 each from memory.

upload_2017-8-11_10-31-39.png
 
1. Will all the different types of beer line 5mm/8mm, 5mm/8mm, 6mm/8mm fit on my corny keg?

Usually the basic stuff is barbed. 5mm and smaller is difficult to get onto the standard barb. 6mm is easier.

2. What size line should I get, and why?

Up to you. If you get fatter line, you will need to compensate by using a longer length, or use taps with flow restrictors built in. What you want to do work out what pressure you need in the keg to get the level of carbonation you want. You then need to design the line lengths and/or taps accordingly to provide you a sensible flow rate into your glass that won't just fizz up on you. So you need to slow it down either with friction in the line (smaller diameters mean more friction, means shorter lines for a given pressure), lengthening the line, or a tap with a built in flow restrictor.

Have a look at this good explanation of the fluid mechanics involved. If you don't want to get technical, just plug your numbers into the calculator and it will tell you what line length you need. Unfortunately it's all in US units, but it's fairly straight forward.

http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

3. Do you connect the tubing directly to the ball lock disconnect or is there another small bit I need inbetween them?

Tubing goes straight on if the disconnects have barbs. If they are threaded, you may need a screw on barb or a John Guest fitting

4. Are the beer / gas lines meant to be the same diameter?

They do not have to be. I'd recommend 6mm for gas, it doesn't change anything but it's easier to get on the barbs.

5. Not line related....but tap related.....should I get a tap, a pluto gun or a picnic tap? I like the idea of a tap because it means no messy beer line in the fridge and I can pour straight from the keg..... does it really matter or just personal preference?

I like a tap. But keep in mind that within each category there's a million variations. There are cheap taps around $30 that are chromed brass, or you can get half decent ones around the $45 mark that are stainless. If you want to keep your lines short or use a fatter line, I'd be looking at a tap with a flow restrictor built in, which is a little more again.
 
Valpar flexmaster II 5mm/8mm with john guest fittings

Second this! This line is strong and very flexible, makes neat and tight coils. I prefer john guest fitting for the beer side, especially when re-balancing. Still feel safer locking up my gas lines with barbs and clamps though.
 
Valpar flexmaster II 5mm/8mm with john guest fittings

Does anywhere down under sell 4mmID/8mmOD versions of this? I'd like to replace the more solid Keg King lines I've currently got after encountering some splits recently, but I'd need like 8m of 5mm line to replace my current 4mm set up.
 
I'd go with a 4mm inner diameter line. You can get away with shorter lengths.

It is a bit harder to get onto barbs though. Not an issue if you use John Guest push fittings.
What fitting do you use to get thin line onto a fatter barb?
 
What fitting do you use to get thin line onto a fatter barb?

I dont have any barbs too big on the liquid side. A bit of hot water and elbow grease and it will push on to 6mm MFL and shank barbs ok. It helps if you pre stretch the line a bit, warm it up, push something about 5mm up inside it then run it under the tap to cool it down.

If you are worried about splitting or just CBF, use john guest fittings on the liquid side. 4mmID 8mmOD line with 8mm JG fittings is very easy to set up and no need for huge coils of line.
 
What fitting do you use to get thin line onto a fatter barb?
Reducing-Straight-Connector1.jpg


John Guest reducing straight connector. JG Part number PI201210S. Available from Bracton, Lancer, Andale etc.

3/8" side will take commonly available nylon multilayer barrier tubing that is 6.35mm x 9.5mmm. 5/16" side will take commonly available nylon multilayer barrier tube that is either 4mm x 8mm or 5mm x 8mm.

If you are using a softer 6mm x 10mm tube to go over 6mm QD barbs, use one of these on the 3/8" side:

Tube-to-Hose-Stem.jpg


John Guest Part Number PI251208S 3/8" x 1/4" Tube to hose stem.
 
Perfect thanks!
On the one hand it's good I don't need to buy a new FC tap so I can use a fat line, but on the other hand... I was kind of looking forward to needing to buy shiny new taps :(
 
Perfect thanks!
On the one hand it's good I don't need to buy a new FC tap so I can use a fat line, but on the other hand... I was kind of looking forward to needing to buy shiny new taps :(
It has been said, weak man wait for excuse to buy gear, strong man make excuse WITH BARE HANDS! ;)
 
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