Beer Engines

[Wortgames]

First let me fill you in on the story. A year or so ago I went through a phase of grabbing beer engines that went cheap on eBay and getting them sent to my rellies in Blighty. The plan was that at some point I would organise some cheap freight and get them shipped over.

Well my rellies, bless em, decided to send them over as a bit of a gift, through a friend of a friend who could get a cheap rate.

Unbeknownst to them, I get to cop all the lovely customs fees, duties, wharfie luxury lifestyle tax and whatever else they can fit on an invoice.

So $500-for-cash later this is what I've got:



From left to right there are:

1 - Unbranded oldish handle and plinth (modified with tap, no cylinder)
2 - Homark
3 & 4 - Worthside double
5 & 6 - Worthside singles
7 & 8 - Hi-Gene

Apart from (1) they all feel like they work, a couple will probably need some work but some look like they are good to go. I already have a compact Homark engine, but it will be nice to get a matching pair for the bar.

Not sure yet what I want to do with them. I love to collect but 9 is probably one or two too many for one brewer.

Reckon there would be a market for beer engine hire?

 

[delboy]

wortgames i will take the homark one of you at the right price i have a few spares for this engine at home and could use the frame work .
as it is email me about no1 .
delboy

 

[GMK]

how much for one taht works....

would like one on my bar...

 

[Doc]

Top work Wortgames (except for the duty).

I've been entertaining the idea of a beer engine for a long time. Was even contemplating the BYO Build Your Own version from an issue this year/last year.
If you are planning on offloading a couple I'm interested for sure. No preference of any type as long as it is functional and ready for service.

Beers,
Doc

 

[Wortgames]

In all likelihood I will 'liquidate' a couple but it probably won't be for a few months, after I get round to playing with them a bit and seeing what's what.

Are there many other engine owners on the AHB?

 

[jayse]

Ok since you said you are only likely to get rid of two and three brewers have already got there hawk like eyes on them I just want to put my name down as number 4 just incase by chance I regret it later.

That is unreal by the way, not getting hit with a 500 dollar unexpected bill though.

This Thread I will be watching with interest and not just because I want to come steal one.


I think iam hearing the sounds of happiness
Jayse


EDIT;man this editting thing makes it look like iam sober

 

[nonicman]

If you decide to get rid of 5, I'll reserve number 5

 

[peas_and_corn]

Well, no chance of me snagging one! They all look really nice, having a few lined up on a home bar would look very good.

 

[dreamboat]

Are there many other engine owners on the AHB?

[post="91048"][/post]​

I have a higene pump, and have even used it to server from a keg. There is something special about the "feel" of pulling beer through a pump.



dreamboat

 

[Stagger]

Could be interested in one Wortgames, keep us it touch


Stagger

 

[Wortgames]

Righto, bidding starts at a grand...

I have a higene pump, and have even used it to server from a keg. There is something special about the "feel" of pulling beer through a pump.

[post="91087"][/post]​

I agree, it's kind of satisfying, plus if you keep the beer at a low carbonation level (rather than carb as normal then flatten to serve) the result is somewhat creamier and fresher in my experience. Did you find you could set your reg low enough to just make up the space? This would be the best option if it can be done.

All I've done up till now is to fill a plastic flask from the keg and serve from that (allowing the beer to warm and flatten slightly) and on a couple of special occasions I did a 'real ale' brew which went straight into a jerry can for serving a few days later.

For the sake of practicality I'd prefer to store it under CO2 in a corny, so I can drink it over a few weeks or so. I guess I just need to play with my regs and see if they will do the trick.

 

[delboy]

OK
i have one that will get rid of soon now i dont want cash as i belive in swap or trade i will post a picture when i get the brass base sent to me from england for it and if wort games will sell you the No1 engine he has as well as it is missing the engine cylinder and check valves well you will have a superb engine .

this pump actually cost me 120 dollars to get with the spares as well so i am looking at a secondhand regulator for a swap?

but i will keep you informed.

i also know alot about the technical side and repaires of these as i was a cellar master in the uk when i was working for Charles Wells Brewery in the UK at the George AND Dragon in Bedfordshire England . Although some things have changed a bit since 1993 the fundementals are the same when it comes to beer enginges and plumbing from Cask ,Barrel Cellar to Engine
It was a trining course we did for six weeks and to then become accredited we had to work for 12 months running the pub cellar and bar opperations .

I am certainly not saying Iknow more than anyone else here but can certainly help you when it comes to setting one of these systems up.
And lads if you thought for a moment that a beer pulled from one of these is special then you would be right.

delboy :super:

 

[Wortgames]

Del, do you reckon that first one is a Homark? It looks most similar to the Hi-gene ones. It's larger and older than all the others.

The Homark engine (#2) has a black plastic splashguard, and it looks like it is missing a cover plate as the bit that shows from the front is ugly and structural. It looks like something from the 70s or 80s.

The Hi-gene pumps have the nicest action of all of them, they literally glide back and forth, very sexy. The Worthside pumps all make a bit of a farting noise (probably only because there is no liquid to lubricate the seals).

 

[warrenlw63]

Warren -

 

[Scotty]

Can someone fill me in on what a beer engine is, as i havent seen one before, but they look really cool and would be a great addition to any bar.

Scotty

 

[GMK]

OK
i have one that will get rid of soon now i dont want cash as i belive in swap or trade i will post a picture when i get the brass base sent to me from england for it and if wort games will sell you the No1 engine he has as well as it is missing the engine cylinder and check valves well you will have a superb engine .

this pump actually cost me 120 dollars to get with the spares as well so i am looking at a secondhand regulator for a swap?

but i will keep you informed.

i also know alot about the technical side and repaires of these as i was a cellar master in the uk when i was working for Charles Wells Brewery in the UK at the George AND Dragon in Bedfordshire England . Although some things have changed a bit since 1993 the fundementals are the same when it comes to beer enginges and plumbing from Cask ,Barrel Cellar to Engine
It was a trining course we did for six weeks and to then become accredited we had to work for 12 months running the pub cellar and bar opperations .

I am certainly not saying Iknow more than anyone else here but can certainly help you when it comes to setting one of these systems up.
And lads if you thought for a moment that a beer pulled from one of these is special then you would be right.

delboy :super:

[post="91140"][/post]​

If you can get your pump working - i will trade a brand new Harris 601 DUal Reg for it - but i am confused - do i need to get pump no 1 from Wort Games as well - or will yours have everything i need...

Thanks

Ken..

 

[Wortgames]

Can someone fill me in on what a beer engine is, as i havent seen one before, but they look really cool and would be a great addition to any bar.

Scotty

[post="91174"][/post]​

In the days before CO2 cylinders etc, beer was stored at low pressure in wooden kegs. A beer engine is a type of hand pump that sucks the beer up from the cellar and into the glass. They are also called beer pulls.

You can get the handles easily enough, and a lot of pubs just have the ceramic handles on normal taps for that 'authentic' look, but a real beer engine has a cylinder and piston mechanism to draw the beer up.


Guys, don't get too keen on any of my engines yet, there are a few cracked handles and a bit of restoration work to be done, and I am a long way off deciding what I want to do with them!

I didn't realise they would be in such hot demand, I thought this would be an idle chat about beer engines in general. Sorry to get anyone's hopes up!

 

[Steve Lacey]

Guys, don't get too keen on any of my engines yet, there are a few cracked handles and a bit of restoration work to be done, and I am a long way off deciding what I want to do with them!

I didn't realise they would be in such hot demand, I thought this would be an idle chat about beer engines in general. Sorry to get anyone's hopes up!

[post="91180"][/post]​

ha ha...Warren's photo most apt!!

Interestingly, here in Japan one of the bigger craft breweries (Ya Ho! Brewing) has gone the extra yard; to get its flagship product into bars does a real ale version and will set a beer engine up in the bar -- the bar owner only has to pay about $130 (equiv). Not as many places have taken it up as you would think, but I certainly know how to find the ones that have. The beer is a Cascadey APA called Yona Yona (which means "every night" or "nightly"). Real ale is an absolutely unbeatable way to drink the "modern" hoppy, malty APAs and allied beers. We also have a bar called Beer Club Popeye that carries about 40 draft taps, mostly local craft brews, four or five of which are hand pumps.

The going price for a pint of beer in Tokyo is about $10 to $12. Since most of this has to go towards meeting the high running costs of the bar, there is not much difference in cost between mass market beer and imported or micro-brewed ales, even those on hand pump.

 

[Sean]

1 - Unbranded oldish handle and plinth (modified with tap, no cylinder)

Pretty standard for Addlestones. The cider is crap anyway - "real", but made from concentrate.

The Worthside pumps all make a bit of a farting noise (probably only because there is no liquid to lubricate the seals).

That's pretty common if you pull them "dry". It's not a good idea to do that too much - it tends to rip the seals. Pump some water with a little no-rinse sanitiser or sodium met. through them instead.

 

[Wortgames]

Good idea Sean, thanks. I'm guessing they'll all get a rebuild before I use them anyway.

I guess it won't be easy to find spares for these in Aus