Because I Can - American Barleywine

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spryzie

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With my stout in the fermenter I'm already planning my next brew which I'll cube next weekend and then pitch the weekend after that when my fermenter is free.

So why not a 10% ABV 100 IBU Monster?

I'm only doing single slab batches so might as well make something interesting.

Tell me if it's going to be horrible please? The IBUs are No-Chill adjusted and I'm beginning not to trust that completely so it's probably more like 85 to 90.

Any and all advice welcome.

American Barleywine (or DIPA or Strong Ale or whatever I don't know the difference).

Recipe Specs
----------------
Batch Size (L): 11.0
Total Grain (kg): 4.500
Total Hops (g): 100.00
Original Gravity (OG): 1.095 (°P): 22.7
Final Gravity (FG): 1.019 (°P): 4.8
Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 10 % !
Colour (SRM): 12.2 (EBC): 24.0
Bitterness (IBU): 100.2 (Average - No Chill Adjusted)
Brewhouse Efficiency (%): 70
Boil Time (Minutes): 60

Grain Bill
----------------
3.400 kg Maris Otter Malt (75.56%)
0.250 kg Munich Malt (5.56%)
0.100 kg Crystal 120 (2.22%)
0.750 kg Honey (16.67%) - Not mashed, will just boil for a few minutes with some water on pitching day.

Hop Bill
----------------
35.0 g Centennial Pellet (9.7% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil) (3.2 g/L)
25.0 g Cascade Pellet (7.8% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (2.3 g/L)
15.0 g Willamette Pellet (4.3% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil) (1.4 g/L) (Because I've got some leftover - why not?)
25.0 g Cascade Pellet (7.8% Alpha) @ 0 Days (Dry Hop) (2.3 g/L)

Misc Bill
----------------

Single step Infusion at 66°C for 90 Minutes.
Fermented at 18°C with Safale US-05

Notes
----------------
Pitch 2 x 7g packets of US-05 for this.
 
Local shop repacks it into 7g packets for $1.90.

:)
 
Grain bill looks fine. Not sure how the honey will fit, personally I'm not a huge fan of honey in beer. On the other hand, it's pretty fermentable so you'll end up with a dryness that's good for a barleywine. Choose a nice delicate honey if you can, as you're adding a fair bit and you wouldn't want it too overpowering.

My only other advice would be:

1. Add more hops than you think is reasonable. You'll want to age it a bit and the hops will fade over time.
2. Do everything you can do to ensure yeast health, as you want full attenuation. Aerate, rehydrate and pitch correct amounts.

Let us know how it turns out.
 
Only did the honey to hit OG. Only have a Big W pot.

Any difference between dextrose, sugar, honey, whatever to bulk it up?

At these proportions I figured I could get away with adding adjuncts without affecting the flavour too much?
 
The thing about Barleywines is they need a really strong malt backbone which you are not going to get by adding honey. You would be better served by using DME. Also, you will be down somewhat on the hop flavour you need. I'd dump the williamette and add something with more punch.
 
Mashing this right now. The Big W pot is full to the brim with 15L water and 3.75kg of grain. That would appear to be absolute maximum. Lot's more dough balls then my last BIAB on strike but it looks like it's all dissolved in well enough 15 minutes in. :)

Couldn't get any centennial hops so I've got 100g of cascade and 15g of willamette. Going to do 25g cascade @ 60mins, 65g cascade and 15g willamette @ 15mins and dry hop with 10g of cascade.

With no chill option ticked it's 100 IBUs and without it's 70 IBUs. So it'll be OK even with out the centennial to get the bitterness up.

It's only an 11L batch.
 
Holy moly, this stuff tastes great right of the fermenter!

Got some Amarillo instead of the cascade to dry hop for a day or two before bottling this weekend.

I'm tempted just to fill up a soda stream bottle and fizz it up and have some now. :icon_drool2:

I'm beginning to suspect you can't make a bad BIAB beer...
 
spryzie said:
I'm beginning to suspect you can't make a bad BIAB beer...
BIAB (or any kind of wort production) is just one part of making beer. Easy to make good or bad beer if you aren't careful in other areas.
 
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