wessmith said:
There are also a new group of mash brewers emerging who now demand to know the specs of their malt and are conversant with the key malt parameters - I would respond to several every week on technical related questions.
Time has moved on and so must I. Hope this has been helpful.
Wes.
{Darren Mate, dont where your getting your info from but you are just a little wide of the mark. }
Wes, I have read Brewing (Lewis and Young) and have also worked in biochemistry and microbiology labs for more than twenty years so I do have an understanding of enzyme activites and laboratory procedures.
{First up the EBC (or Lovibond or SRM) colour of a malt is the colour of that particular malt as determined by the malting process - not after a batch of wort has been boiled in the brewing process. It IS a standardised lab test and Yep, it is done on a mashed lab sample with a standard dilution.}
I agree. I was trying to point out that the colour of a finished beer could be different than expected due to many reasons other than the small discrepancy in colour that chiller quoted.
{"Extract Potential"
This is the maximum available extract from a particular malt. It will depend on the malting process, the strain of grain used, the season etc etc. Once again, what the brewer does in weighing the malt, fineness of crush, mashing cycles etc. is beyond the control of the maltster.}
I agree. The large brewery has tens of thousands of dollars worth of equipment to ensure they crush, mash and lauter with the same accuracy to retrieve all of that potential sugar. Homebrewers will usually be up of down a couple of points.
I maintain that extract potential doesn't really mean much to the Hbrewer.
{BTW extract potential does not mean all the resultant wort is fully fermentable.}
Obviously, otherwise the beer would finish at a FG of 1.000 or lower.
{With some crystal malts for instance (Carapils and Caramalt for example) the name of the game has been to add non-fermentable body to the wort. }
Yet this info is not supplied on the spec sheet! Again it is trial and error for the Hbrewer. Given the differences in attenuation capabilities of yeast strains the "non-fermentabilty" of wort will obviously change dependent entirely on the yeast strain of choice. If for example you ferment with a wine or champagne yeast the wort will be almost be completely fermentable.
{"Diastatic Power"
You are correct in stating that most Aussie pales have good DPs usually in the 250 to 300WK range. There is one notable exception where a pale malt for a major local brewer will be nearer 200. When we look at the English malts there is a very different situation. Floor malted ale malts are typically 150 maximum and do need to be mashed longer. Even a new HB masher will need to know this and adjust times to compensate. BTW your assertion that DP will reduce over time is not borne out in practice. }
Here you are quoting a number and unit for which a homebrewer would generally have no handle on the meaning of. Is 300 really much higher than 150. Sure it is twice, but in biological systems a two-fold increase is not generally seen to be significant. I have used bith Euro and Aussie malts. I have always mashed for about an hour to 1.5 hours.
{BTW your assertion that DP will reduce over time is not borne out in practice. We periodically re-analyse malts to check things like this and have never found any deviation that would fall outside normal analytical tolerances.}
I will take your word for it. Quite interesting actually. Suggests to me that the enzyme activity is in excess of available substrate. Therefore it would be difficult to show a decrease. Mega breweries want high diastatic activity so they can get high through-put of beer. After all time is money etc.
Generally doesn't apply to the homebrewer though, who have no way to or don't measure complete conversion.
{You see Darren, the malt world has moved on a fair degree from where it was 4 or 5 years ago. Used to be that all we could get was a "pale" of unknown spec or a schooner malt (whatever that might have been) or a Franklin. They all performed about the same and frankly produced the same tasting beer. Then we started to bring in the German and English malts and found very quickly that mashers in the HB market had to be re-educated to handle the plumper grains, lower DP and in some cases the much stronger flavours of the malts. }
All of these malts were available 5 years ago. The only difference i can see to the homebrewer is that Euro malts have become more competetively priced than the local malt!
{It is also why I personally went to a lot of effort to get all the Australian available malts incorporated into Promash. This included the imports as well and enabled many errors in the standard malt database to be corrected. If all that is trying to make the process more confusing, I aplogise because we thought it would simplify things.}
An applaudable effort on your part Wes, Well done! Gives the brewer a feel that they have some control over these parameters.
{There are also a new group of mash brewers emerging who now demand to know the specs of their malt and are conversant with the key malt parameters - I would respond to several every week on technical related questions.}
Brewing enthusiasm is great and I love open debate. In the end though it is the mega brewery who decides on the profile of a given malt. Knowledge of specs doesn't necessarily make good beer unless the whole process is good.
Brewing is 20/80. That is, 20% of the process causes 80% of the problems. Fix those 20 % and you will make good beer.