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Auber PID SYL-2352P for Boil?

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brewologist

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Hi AHBers,

I have been studying up on building my own eBIAB system for a while now. I will reuse most of my current biab gear and add a couple of elements and control box. I'm doing double batches in a 72l pot and can squeeze out around 42 liters into the fermenter with a small batch sparge.

I have purchased an Auberins SYL-2352P for the auto step mash as this was the most widely recommended PID in all the posts I have read on here and other HB sites. I think I've got my head around programing it although, as I haven't received it in the mail yet, I'm sure it will be more difficult than I've bargained for when I finally get it.

One of the many questions I've got is can this PID control the boil? Is it just a matter of programing in a step that ramps to boil after mash out and holding it there for 90mins? I'm wondering if this will cause a boil over if I set it to 100c for 90mins. Do I need a PID with manual control in my control box as well?

I'm hoping someone who uses this PID can help me out with these questions.

Cheers,

Gav.
 

seamad

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Just set mine a couple of degrees past boiling point temp so it goes flat chat and don't need to program the time, just set a timer. Never had a boil over yet . ( crown urn )
 

seamad

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Another thing,
when programing steps and you want the quickest ramp time between temp rests then just use 1 as the time. Eg, say you do 72 for 20 minutes then 77 for ten then boil your steps would be:

72/20
72/1
77/10
77/1
102/1 (or whatever your max temp +2 is so you never reach it, maintaining max boil )

cheers
sean
 

treefiddy

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If your boil is too vigorous there's also a setting in there that can reduce the power delivered over a time frame.
 

mabrungard

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Using a PID in it's temperature control mode can be done, but its not a good way. I had a SSR blow in my brew pot circuit last month and I ended up dumping the wort in my PID controlled HLT to finish the boil. I had to constantly adjust the temperature setting to avoid over-boiling. Part of this is because I have 5500w of power heating 7 gallons of wort. If you have far less heating power, then it may not be so difficult to control with the PID in its temperature control mode. But its better to have the PID in its manual mode where it controls the heater power by pulsing the power on and off. A less expensive way to control a boil heater is to employ a pulse-width modulation (PWM) circuit. It does that pulsing needed to control the heater power.
 

brewologist

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Thanks for the replies guys.

I will see how the 2352P goes for the boil when Im testing the rig and if it doesn't cut it all add a manual control PID to the control box.

I have a camco 5500w ULWD element on order and a bunch of electrical bit and pieces coming in the mail.

I'll hopefully be putting this together in a couple of weeks.

Cheers
 

Sainter1775

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Quick questions guys were in Australia can you buy the SYL-2352P if not where from overseas have you all be sourcing from.

Thanks
 

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