Arduino Development Thread

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Considering the cost of those cables and boards I will probably grab one of these 328 kits that come with a board:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-Pro-Min...e-/180747779579
as well as Bonj's. I've been doing some reading and Arduino looks fun to play with. I've wanted to make a robot for ages.
I can't read the print on the chip on the USB board, so assuming it is an FT232RL, it will be able to program a bonjuino or any other arduino compatible board using the same programming pin format (RBBB, Arduino Pro 5V, FTDI programming cable), but it doesn't appear to have the pins broken out into the same ordering as the aforementioned boards, so You'll need to sort that out before you can directly program a bonjuino/Arduino Pro 5V/RBBB.
 
Anyone able to tell me what they use for lcd buttons.

I've seen a video somewhere with like a potentiometer you can push in for a button.
So you can scroll through a menu and push to select.

Anyone know what this is called?

Thanks heaps
 
Anyone able to tell me what they use for lcd buttons.

I've seen a video somewhere with like a potentiometer you can push in for a button.
So you can scroll through a menu and push to select.

Anyone know what this is called?

Thanks heaps
Jaycar sell an Australian made LCD shield, comes with all the buttons built in and ready to go. Works for me. If you want to DIY, I'm not sure sorry.
 
Anyone able to tell me what they use for lcd buttons.

I've seen a video somewhere with like a potentiometer you can push in for a button.
So you can scroll through a menu and push to select.

Anyone know what this is called?

Thanks heaps
you might be thinking of a rotary encoder.

I just use normul pushbuttons with a 10K pull-up resistor (the inputs on an arduino "float" (ie they go back and forth between high and low) if they're not specifically pulled high or low). The 10K resistor between the input pin and positive (5V) pulls the pin high, but if you then have the pin connected to a switch, which when activated, connects it to ground, the resistance to ground is much lower and pulls the pin low (like water, electricity likes to take the path of least resistance). I haven't needed to conserve pins by using any encoding method (binary encoded inputs) ey, so I just use one pin per push button.
 
Hey Bonj, if you don't mind, I think I'll post the development of the Brauduino here

had some spare time today so i designed a board today it fits on a 10cm X 7.5 cm

brauduino.JPG

its all 20mil traces with 20mil clearances
the bonjuino will plug into the component side and the LCD and buttons are on the bottom side

cheers matho
 
Hey Bonj, if you don't mind, I think I'll post the development of the Brauduino here

had some spare time today so i designed a board today it fits on a 10cm X 7.5 cm

View attachment 50660

its all 20mil traces with 20mil clearances
the bonjuino will plug into the component side and the LCD and buttons are on the bottom side

cheers matho
Looking good matho!

It would be nice to get a set of boards available for different brewing applications. As you know I have been working on a design for my HERMS controller that will plug into an arduino/bonjuino board. I have opted to use crew headers and external SSRs for my board.

This is an early draft version of the rv2 board. I have made some changes since this screenshot, but I haven't settled on some features yet.
herms_rv2.png

(I noticed an airwire on one of the arduino pins at the top of the brauduino board, and another on the LCD contrast pot)
 
(I noticed an airwire on one of the arduino pins at the top of the brauduino board, and another on the LCD contrast pot)

yeah i picked that up too its fixed, I think when i ripped up the GND a couple of via's disappeared too.

I was looking at your herms board, i could make up a board for the braumiser that uses your herms board for the LCD and DS1820, might be a better solution, ill chat with you later about that :)
 
yeah i picked that up too its fixed, I think when i ripped up the GND a couple of via's disappeared too.

I was looking at your herms board, i could make up a board for the braumiser that uses your herms board for the LCD and DS1820, might be a better solution, ill chat with you later about that :)
Yeah, it all depends on whether you want the modularity of using the extra board, or the decreased cost of a single board.
 
bonj,i dont understand electronics but, to use this Bonjuino to control the temps in the kettle i would have to connect it to the heating element,and connect a temp sensor to the Bonjuino,then connect the lot to a computer. the computer would then be programmed to make the reguired adjustments.


i would need to buy the sensor probe,usb-ttl cable and connections to the heating element?
hope this post makes sense.....cheers.......spog..........
 
bonj,i dont understand electronics but, to use this Bonjuino to control the temps in the kettle i would have to connect it to the heating element,and connect a temp sensor to the Bonjuino,then connect the lot to a computer. the computer would then be programmed to make the reguired adjustments.


i would need to buy the sensor probe,usb-ttl cable and connections to the heating element?
hope this post makes sense.....cheers.......spog..........
To control the temps in a kettle, you would need a temperature sensor, a way of mounting the sensor in the kettle (a thermowell/probe end), a relay to switch the element on and off (solid state seams to be preferred because they can be switched on and off rapidly without wearing out the physical contacts). The computer is only required to program the Bonjuino, as the microcontroller on board is a fully capable computer on a single chip. It is possible to use it in the way you describe, by using the computer as the main controller, but not required. If you wish to use a computer as the main controller and an arduino as an interface to the controls, you are better off getting an arduino with the FT232RL chip on board. That way you can plug it straight into the computer with a standard USB cable. The Bonjuino lacks that chip as a cost saving measure. It is designed for those that are likely to use more than one arduino for several standalone projects.

I hope that answers your questions.
 
ahh hah,now i understand,i reckon i can ddo this without any troubles ....cheers.....spog........
To control the temps in a kettle, you would need a temperature sensor, a way of mounting the sensor in the kettle (a thermowell/probe end), a relay to switch the element on and off (solid state seams to be preferred because they can be switched on and off rapidly without wearing out the physical contacts). The computer is only required to program the Bonjuino, as the microcontroller on board is a fully capable computer on a single chip. It is possible to use it in the way you describe, by using the computer as the main controller, but not required. If you wish to use a computer as the main controller and an arduino as an interface to the controls, you are better off getting an arduino with the FT232RL chip on board. That way you can plug it straight into the computer with a standard USB cable. The Bonjuino lacks that chip as a cost saving measure. It is designed for those that are likely to use more than one arduino for several standalone projects.

I hope that answers your questions.
 
ahh hah,now i understand,i reckon i can ddo this without any troubles ....cheers.....spog........
no worries.

obviously, you'll need some form of input and output, whether that be pushbuttons, rotary encoders, LCDs, 7 segment displays, etc.
 
got my Bonjuino today thanks mate :)
Awesome!

Let me know how the assembly goes. It's pretty straight forward. All the parts are clearly marked on the PCB, and the parts list tells you the capacitor codes (I always have problems with them :p ). You can see a large image at the website for reference here. Oh and please disregard the spelling mistakes in the tips page :p
 
Spog, if heating a kettle is all you need to do you could use an STC-1000. Not trying to put you off experimenting, if that's what you want to do, but an STC-1000 is a cheaper and simpler way to heat a kettle or HLT etc. If you want to do both then an arduino may be cheaper.
 
tanga,thank's for the info,i am bouncing several ideas around and slowly getting my head around all this tech stuff,...cheers...spog....
Spog, if heating a kettle is all you need to do you could use an STC-1000. Not trying to put you off experimenting, if that's what you want to do, but an STC-1000 is a cheaper and simpler way to heat a kettle or HLT etc. If you want to do both then an arduino may be cheaper.
 

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