Anyone Interested In A Fridge Temperature Controller?

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Impy

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I just purchased a temp controller from a fridge I just acquired for homebrewing, but didn't realize when I bought it that it's a heating OR cooling controller, not both at the same time. The fridge I have is an outside garage, and with cold sydney winters I can imagine the fridge will actually get colder than I want it (which is why I require a controller that can switch on heating when necessary)

It's a WH7016 and can monitor and regulate the temp in your fermentation fridge by simply turning the fridge on whenever cooling is required and switching it off when it's at temp. It's easy enough to wire up and would be perfect for anyone with an old fridge they would like to re-purpose into a temperature controlled fermentation chamber.

I got it for ~$22 from over seas, and am willing to pass it on to an Aussie homebrewer for $20 including postage.

Here is a great forum post that explains how it's hooked up - http://www.jimsbeerkit.com/forum/viewtopic...f=6&t=46976

Any takers?
 
It looks identical to the ever-popular STC1000 unit, but be careful with those instructions, they might be for UK power supply/cords.
(You should also have this post in the Market Place forum).
 
Why would you want to heat and cool at the same time? Its either heating or cooling amd looks exactly like the ones i use...
 
I have to agree with Yob, Ive got the STC1000 which has dual heating and cooling connections but Ive found I have never needed to use both at the same time. In summer I use it with my fridge to cool and in winter Im going to use it with a heating element of some sort to warm up. I use it for mashing too and its just set to heat.

Ive never needed to plug both outlets in even though I have them.
 
I think that these units need to be set to either heat OR cool via the interface when you fire them up. There's only one relay and it switches either the fridge OR the heating unit, depending on whetehr you select heating or cooling. You can only plug one thing into it. The STC-1000 has 2 relays and you can attach BOTH a heating and cooling unit to it, and it will control both to regulate temperature. You can plug two things into it.

Sorry Yob, maybe I misinterpreted your post. Yes, you're right, it's rare that you need a controller to operate heating and cooling within the same ferment. Use this one and you can attach a heater in winter, and hook it up to the fridge when the weather warms up. Personally, I find that while my shed can get to 0C overnight in the dead of winter, my ferment fridge stays at a pretty constant 16C due to the heat generated by the yeast and the insulating factor of the fridge. I've never needed to heat, just use cool tolerant yeasts during winter. Preferably brew lagers and age them till summer!
 
I think he means it won't "auto-switch" between Heating and Cooling like the STC-1000 does. It only has 1 relay, and you set the controller to either heating mode or cooling mode. So in summer, you'd have it in cooling mode with the fridge pluged in. And in winter you'd plug in the heater and set it to heating mode.

The big disadvantage is that when you need it to cool in the day, and heat at night.

Would be good for anyone wanting to setup a chest freezer for kegs though, since you only need the cooling side anyway.


edit: beaten to it twice. I need to learn to type faster :)
 
I think that these units need to be set to either heat OR cool via the interface when you fire them up. There's only one relay and it switches either the fridge OR the heating unit, depending on whetehr you select heating or cooling. You can only plug one thing into it. The STC-1000 has 2 relays and you can attach BOTH a heating and cooling unit to it, and it will control both to regulate temperature. You can plug two things into it.
Here is the schematic of the back of the unit, and it seems you're correct, only 1 relay, so you plug it into the heating or cooling circuit.
wiring.jpg

Still useful, but since I'm lazy, it's easier just to set it all up and then let it do its own thing.
 
Ahhhh sorry, misunderstood... Would be good for a HLT controller or hex or something then...

Sorry my bad.

:)
 
I got it for ~$22 from over seas, and am willing to pass it on to an Aussie homebrewer for $20 including postage.


Any takers?

I thought about it but I can also get it myself for around 21-22 from the guy you bought it from (who you linked to), instead of getting it from you for $20 + probably $10 postage to Melbourne.

My vote so far goes to Hong Kong retail.

Unless you mean 20 total in which case I can save ~1.50.
 
Link in the first was 14.99 + 6 shipping so I can't imagine there's a lot of difference between this one or either of the two HK ones.

Temp controller, delivered to your door for roughly 20 bucks. Take your pick who you want to buy it from.

^ I just saw the free shipping bit in your link and apologise. I should have waited before ordering one from the first HK retailer (and posting a reply).

Live and learn.
 
Except you can get them from HK for under $15 (link)

On the link you provided postage is free to Hong Kong. To Australia its around $6.

To be clear, I'm not trying to screw anyone out of money.

I'm selling it for $20 *INCLUDING POSTAGE* so I'll be losing money from my original purchase. Yes a buyer from here will only save a small amount. Sorry if you think I'm doing something wrong, if I sold it for any cheaper I'd be losing a huge amount on a brand new, never touched unit.
 
(You should also have this post in the Market Place forum).

Sorry, that was an oversight on my part, I'm more than happy for it to be moved if necessary.
 
I have to agree with Yob, Ive got the STC1000 which has dual heating and cooling connections but Ive found I have never needed to use both at the same time. In summer I use it with my fridge to cool and in winter Im going to use it with a heating element of some sort to warm up. I use it for mashing too and its just set to heat.

Ive never needed to plug both outlets in even though I have them.

This time of the year where in Sydney (as an example) we can have pretty big temperature fluctuations between day and night. eg around 10 deg c at night up to mid 20's during the day. In those circumstances I find the heating and cooling parts both kick in at some stage, especially after the main part of primary fermentation has ceased and all that heat energy has disappeared. :beerbang:
 
Sorry if you think I'm doing something wrong

Sorry Impy, didn't mean it in that way at all - in fact if I hadn't just got a new STC-1000 for my chestie over the weekend i would have grabbed it from you cause i wouldn't have to wait 4 weeks for stupid slow HK postage.
 
This time of the year where in Sydney (as an example) we can have pretty big temperature fluctuations between day and night. eg around 10 deg c at night up to mid 20's during the day. In those circumstances I find the heating and cooling parts both kick in at some stage, especially after the main part of primary fermentation has ceased and all that heat energy has disappeared. :beerbang:

Yeah that's what I was thinking. It's only a short period of the year, but we can get some pretty harsh cold snaps where nights are low single digits and days barely reach the high teens.

When I get a unit that can do both (stc1000 probably) I was thinking of hooking the heating side up to something like this http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Fermentation-Can-Heater
 
PM me your details... I need a stand alone unit for either my H-EX (builing this weekend hopefully) or my HLT and I rekon this will siut nicely.

Im sick to frikkin death of changing my CC Fridge controller on brewday ;)

:beerbang:
 
Slightly confused about this litle one...

First issue, it's rated for 5A so am thinking of using it just for the CC fridge, What does a compressor draw on start up? Suitable?

Secondly, in the attached diagram, which number, 2 or 3 should have the relay active to power socket? Whats the purpose of the second switch? Power in is clearly 1..

Capture.JPG

ed: Payment sent
 
First issue, it's rated for 5A so am thinking of using it just for the CC fridge, What does a compressor draw on start up? Suitable?
As a rule of thumb, the startup current is around 4-6x the running current of the fridge (which should be printed somewhere on the fridge).

You can always connect an external relay that is rated to 10 amps to it.

Secondly, in the attached diagram, which number, 2 or 3 should have the relay active to power socket? Whats the purpose of the second switch? Power in is clearly 1..

Attach 2 to the active of your power point. Leave 3 unconnected.
 
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