Another Brew Controller

[joshF]

I am envious of the neatness and symmetry of all your wiring and cutting mate. Looks awesome!!!!

 

[QldKev]

Looks good.

I would talk to your sparky about the wiring on that volt/amp meter, looks wrong.

 

[Vanoontour]

Looks good.

I would talk to your sparky about the wiring on that volt/amp meter, looks wrong.

Hey QldKev, what part of it looks wrong? Heres the link I got it from http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141094274381?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_5528wt_984 There are pictures at the bottom. After your comment I have looked at other meters similiar and one shows the coil connected to the screw down terminals and the power connected to the red/black plug. Both of them have shown them working....

Now I'm confused.

 

[Vanoontour]

Heres the link showing the opposite, http://www.aliexpress.com/item/D69-2042-LCD-Digital-Voltage-Panel-Mount-Voltmeter-Ammeter-double-output/1359373459.html

And heres a link to a similiar one from the same seller connected up and working, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-AC-LCD-Panel-Digital-Ammeter-Volt-Meter-Amp-Voltmeter-100A-80V-300V-DIY/141094273034?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D3491713439255334731%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D131024109025%26#ht_5342wt_980

Advice?

 

[OzPaleAle]

Hey Dan, I suspect the issue is with the indicator (power on light) being inline(in series) with the voltage meter instead of in parallel.
Normally a voltmeter is used in parallel with the thing being tested so having something else in series may effect the reading\operation of the module.


The inductor looks like its on the active from the mains supply which should be correct.

 

[QldKev]

Heres the link showing the opposite, http://www.aliexpress.com/item/D69-2042-LCD-Digital-Voltage-Panel-Mount-Voltmeter-Ammeter-double-output/1359373459.html

And heres a link to a similiar one from the same seller connected up and working, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-AC-LCD-Panel-Digital-Ammeter-Volt-Meter-Amp-Voltmeter-100A-80V-300V-DIY/141094273034?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D3491713439255334731%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D131024109025%26#ht_5342wt_980

Advice?

That first link is how mine is wired up. Seeing the wiring diagram of the one you have purchased, it looks like the Chinese producer has made them backwards to each other?

 

[Vanoontour]

Hey Dan, I suspect the issue is with the indicator (power on light) being inline(in series) with the voltage meter instead of in parallel.
Normally a voltmeter is used in parallel with the thing being tested so having something else in series may effect the reading\operation of the module.


The inductor looks like its on the active from the mains supply which should be correct.

Ah Gotcha, its easy enough to put a jumper around it.

 

[Vanoontour]

That first link is how mine is wired up. Seeing the wiring diagram of the one you have purchased, it looks like the Chinese producer has made them backwards to each other?

I know what your saying QldKev, I will have a closer look at the circuit board and see if there is anything identifying it further.

 

[QldKev]

I know what your saying QldKev, I will have a closer look at the circuit board and see if there is anything identifying it further.

Now we know the difference, you can actually see in the pic the arrangement of the resistors and caps are arranged opposite to each other. So the opposite power and current connections looks correct. Your electrician will check it before he connects it up.

 

[Vanoontour]

Wiring confirmed as being correct.

 

[Glot]

Bet it goes bang. Stop and think. The max current rating of the amp meter is 100 amps. Do those terminals look like they are rated for 100 amps? Nope. You should have a current transformer that actually connects to those terminals and one of the current carrying conductors goes through the transformer ( the small brown coil thing with two wires off it). Some of these meters have one built onto the board and some have a separate one. I cannot actually say that as a definite without seeing it but just making you aware of a possibility of it being wrong.
These home made set ups are scary. I can see a number of safety issues.

 

[OzPaleAle]

I don't follow, 100A never passes through the meter, it inducts a small current into that inductor thats around the active input wire to the controller that the meter measures and outputs a reading relative to that.

Edit: Might be worth putting an earth wire that attaches from the door to your incoming earth so you are not relying on the door hinge to ground it if it became live.

 

[Vanoontour]

Bet it goes bang. Stop and think. The max current rating of the amp meter is 100 amps. Do those terminals look like they are rated for 100 amps? Nope. You should have a current transformer that actually connects to those terminals and one of the current carrying conductors goes through the transformer ( the small brown coil thing with two wires off it). Some of these meters have one built onto the board and some have a separate one. I cannot actually say that as a definite without seeing it but just making you aware of a possibility of it being wrong.
These home made set ups are scary. I can see a number of safety issues.

Bet it doesn't!! Current rating and indicating capacity are two very different and separate things (as I suspect you are aware of given your signature block). You are correct, there is nothing at all on the amp meter board that could handle 100 amps. But as a gauge to indicate it is fine. And if you can see anything wrong then please speak up as this is what the whole thread/forums are for. Not for cryptic guess work.

On a separate note, this is going to be fully check by a sparky and if there are any problems they will be rectified before first use. And yes the door will be earthed, I have a spare on the earth bar just for it.

 

[OzPaleAle]

Nice one, look forward to seeing the beast up and running. :beerbang:

 

[Vanoontour]

Well....after it having it checked over the switch was thrown and the box came to life. Shock horror the amp meter didn't go bang h34r: . The programmable PID however is faulty, continued input error after swapping out the sensor with a new one that proved to work. Swapped the cable connecting them, swapped the internal wiring too. After some emails to Auber I was given some more fault finding stuff to do which didn't work so it was decided to return it for a replacement.

Guess its back to old faithful for the xmas brewing. Was planning do use the box for a step mashed beliner weisse with a sour mash.... Oh well, guess it can wait.

 

[Vanoontour]

Righto. I got another PID from Auber (can't fault there service at all. They have been fantastic) but it would appear the NAND gate idea is not working yet as advertised to control the power supply to the HLT or HERMs so I dont exceed my 15A supply. For those that are geeky feel free to have a look at the attach spreadsheet which will give you the readings when faultfinding but this is now beyond me so I have started doing some further research. I have since found a normally closed, SSR DC output relay that appears to do the same job for $40 delivered from RS components (http://www.crydom.com/en/Products/Catalog/d_c60.pdf) any reasons why this would do the same thing?
View attachment nandlogic.xls

Cheers all, Dan

 

[dblunn]

Bump
Have you sorted your cct yet?

 

[Vanoontour]

Yeah shes all up and running. Just need some process refinement and I'm away.

 

[kjparker]

Did you end up going with the NAND gate or the NC relay?

Got any pics of how it ended up?

 

[Mr B]

Bump

Interested in how this one turned out if you have an update

Cheers