Another Brew Controller

[Vanoontour]

Hey All,

Well the time has come to pimp to brewery so here's my plans and will post about the build here.

My brewery is currently here (http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/70532-3-tier-gravity-build/) but the gravity and lack of pump is not much fun any more. Still makes alright beer but am looking for a bit more consistency. So, here's the controller circuit:
View attachment Controller Circuit.pdf

I have a 15 A power point in the shed which will run the whole brewery. With help from QldKev and Truman this was designed (please sing out if something isn't right?). As I only have 15 amps and I reckon my HERMs pot will run a 2.4kW element and my HLT will have a 3kW element this adds up to more than 15 amps. So it was suggested to use a simple logic circuit (the NAND gate in the .pdf) to make it work.

Basically if the HERMs wants power it can have it and is top priority i.e. HERMs is off. If the HERMs doesn't need the power and the HLT does, then it can have it. And if neither need power then they are both off.

The PIDs are the Auber ones, 1 x SYL-2352P and 2 x SYL-2352 (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4). The probes will be these (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=261). Is the 2.5" too long? They will be fitted into stainless tee fittings as part of the outlet valves.

So yeah, thats about it for now.

Cheers

 

[Vanoontour]

So I have finally purchsed all the bits last night. Heres a drawing of the proposed panel and its layout. The green circle is the pump on light and the big red one is the pump emergency stop button.

 

[OzPaleAle]

Looks good, I knew there must be another brewer in the Manor Lakes Estate somewhere!

 

[Truman42]

Looking good mate, cant wait to see some photos.

 

[Glot]

Forget the set up and just hand the pretty picture on the wall.

 

[MartinOC]

Since the switching between the HERMS & HLT is all done on the low voltage side, wouldn't this work just as well?:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-MINI-NORMALLY-CLOSED-RELAY-DURITE-20-AMPS-0-727-02-/300931387282?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4610e88f92

 

[Vanoontour]

Since the switching between the HERMS & HLT is all done on the low voltage side, wouldn't this work just as well?:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-MINI-NORMALLY-CLOSED-RELAY-DURITE-20-AMPS-0-727-02-/300931387282?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4610e88f92

The relay doesn't have the logic to not supply power to the HLT if the HERMs needs it? Or did you have it wired some other way? Basically the HERMs and the HLT can't run at the same time.

 

[QldKev]

Also thanks to Edak and whiteferret and everyone else who helped with the design in this thread for that NAND gate setup.

I would also update the wiring diagram to include the wiring going via the extra switches, as at the moment you cannot see that mash/boil switch and how it will isolate between the kettle and HLT/HERMS.

Would the probe for the HERMS be better as a 1.5" so you can use a T-peice? Check out that link they have a pic what I mean.

@MartinOC, how will that relay provide the logic to only allow one of the HMERS and HLT to use the power at a time? I could see it with a 5 terminal relay that has NO and NC terminals. But I doubt that it would last long with PID switching speeds?

 

[Vanoontour]

Also thanks to Edak and whiteferret and everyone else who helped with the design in this thread for that NAND gate setup.

I would also update the wiring diagram to include the wiring going via the extra switches, as at the moment you cannot see that mash/boil switch and how it will isolate between the kettle and HLT/HERMS.

Would the probe for the HERMS be better as a 1.5" so you can use a T-peice? Check out that link they have a pic what I mean.

@MartinOC, how will that relay provide the logic to only allow one of the HMERS and HLT to use the power at a time? I could see it with a 5 terminal relay that has NO and NC terminals. But I doubt that it would last long with PID switching speeds?

Hey Kev, I have updated the wiring diagram to account for the 3 position switch, just not posted it. And i went with the 1.5" probe after seeing that very same pic myself.

Cheers

 

[MartinOC]

@MartinOC, how will that relay provide the logic to only allow one of the HMERS and HLT to use the power at a time? I could see it with a 5 terminal relay that has NO and NC terminals. But I doubt that it would last long with PID switching speeds?

I got the idea from here:

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/6014-nc-ssr-wiring/

I will admit I'm not sure of the practicalities of achieving it &/or the NC relay's capacity to handle the switching speed of the PID (something I didn't consider, but will now!).

 

[QldKev]

I got the idea from here:

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/6014-nc-ssr-wiring/

I will admit I'm not sure of the practicalities of achieving it &/or the NC relay's capacity to handle the switching speed of the PID (something I didn't consider, but will now!).

I can only see 3 x SSRs, I cannot see any mechanical relays as you linked too in that diagram? Am I reading it wrong?

In fraser_john's wiring he adds a NC SSR to isolate the second element when the primary is active. Maybe fraser_john can jump in, but I'm not aware of any NC SSRs for under $100. That NAND gate CMOS in the OP diagram from Jaycar is 0.95c.

 

[MartinOC]

Apparently, this is the exact model that Fraser-John used:

http://au.element14.com/crouzet/mpdcd3-b/ssr-pcb-mount-60vdc-32vdc-3a/dp/1276728?Ntt=1276728

It looks like they're currently out of stock.

When I got the idea, I looked for 12-24V SSR's on ebay (since the above item is out of stock) & that item I initially linked-to was all I could find. I didn't twig that it's actually a mechanical relay & PID's switch quickly. So now, it makes sense to go with solid state &/or source an alternative like the NAND gate (& MUCH cheaper, too!).

 

[Vanoontour]

Got the first aid cabinet from Bunnings, cut some little shapes to ge a feel for how it will look life size and plan where stuff will go inside. The Green pump running LED is above the SSRs and heat sinks but should have 36mm clearance with the door closed.

Can anyone see any gotchas with the layout?

Cheers

 

[QldKev]

I prefer to keep the circuit breaker closer to the power inlet. The shortest path between them is the best, that way if the cable should get damaged it is more likely to be after it and then you have the protection.

 

[Vanoontour]

I prefer to keep the circuit breaker closer to the power inlet. The shortest path between them is the best, that way if the cable should get damaged it is more likely to be after it and then you have the protection.

Nice idea Kev,I will mount it on the same DIN rail as the SSRs down the bottom of cabinet.

Cheers

 

[Vanoontour]

My PIDs turned up today, very impressed with the speed of delivery. All the hole are cut and filed to size. Hope to paint this weekend then wait for all the other bits to turn up.....

The 4 rectangle ones in the base are for the 16 amp IEC plugs to go to the 3 elements and the pump. I dont need that much current for all of them but it will look better the same. The 3 small circles next to them are for the temp sensors.

 

[Vanoontour]

The switches and IEC sockets turned up today. Thought I might give everything a trial fit. Also fitted the cable gland for the 15 amp supply and the temp sensor sockets.

 

[Vanoontour]

Finally got most of the bits, just waiting on the E Stop and the cooling fan grilles. Everything is all cut out, DIN rails mounted. Hopefully paint tomorrow while brewing then wire it all up this weekend if I get the time.

 

[Vanoontour]

Painted the cabinet on the weekend. Final bits turned up tonight to started wiring it up. Pretty happy with the progress to date. The circuit breaker is gonna get swapped out for a two pole RCD/MCB combo breaker. The power supply in the top left of the cabinet is for the cooling fans and the NAND gate.

 

[Truman42]

Mate that's looks great. You've done a good job.