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American Pale Ale

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wedge

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Guys,
i have been tinkering with this recipe. It is a Pale American Ale Recipe. I wanted something really easy drinking.

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

10-B American Ale, American Amber Ale

Min OG: 1.045 Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 25 Max IBU: 48
Min Clr: 10 Max Clr: 17 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 23.00
Total Grain (kg): 6.20
Anticipated OG: 1.056 Plato: 13.86
Anticipated SRM: 6.2
Anticipated IBU: 32.5
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
56.5 3.50 kg. TF Maris Otter Pale Ale Malt UK 77.43 3
24.2 1.50 kg. JWM Export Pilsner Australia 76.63 2
9.7 0.60 kg. Weyermann Munich II Germany 78.13 12
8.1 0.50 kg. Weyermann Carapils (Carafoam) Germany 76.15 2
1.6 0.10 kg. JWM Wheat Malt Australia 82.41 2

Potential represented as % Yield, Coarse Grind As Is.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 17.1 60 min.
10.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 10.2 45 min.
10.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 2.7 20 min.
15.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 2.6 10 min.


Yeast
-----
Craftbrewer American Ale



What does everyone think?
 

leeboy

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Looks pretty standard. I don't use Pilsner malt though. Alway throw some crystal in there for residual sweetness. Always a light crystal. As for hops they looks great but I would probably throw some in a flame out also. It is a american pale after all.
 

Stuster

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Two things stand out to me. If you want an easy drinker, I'd cut back (or out) that carapils. And I'd use some of the Amarillo late. It's a lovely hop combination with Cascade IMO.

I'd also use a bit more later with some aroma additions. But that might just be me and I've gone over my two things allowance anyway. :D
 

Adamt

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For me the only suggestion is to replace the carapils with a crystal as suggested, oh yeah and...


Dry hop! :D
 

Hutch

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Looks fine to me wedge - the Marris Otter is a great base, while the JW pils will help to provide extra fermentibles, while not contributing much else.
Crystal is not compulsory in an APA, particularly with a half kilo of Munich II.
Ease off on the Carapils, and go with a decent flame-out addition of Amarillo.
My 2c.
 

Asher

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Yep

I'd be reducing the carapils back to around 4%. Just top up bill with base malt
Also I'd alternate the hop additions with one extra at flame out.

Asher
 

Duff

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Too many grains for mine. A good base is Pils (65 - 70%), Light Munich (20 - 25%) and the remainder Wheat. Clean with a good malt backbone.

Cheers.
 

randyrob

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I wanted something really easy drinking.

Anticipated OG: 1.056
Well since youi asked, if i wanted something "easy drinking" i'd knock it down a few points!
you're getting close to a 6% beer there depending on the attenuation of the yeast and if you bottle condition or not.

why not use a clean bittering hop first up in the kettle and then bust the cascade/amarillo combo late?

Cheers Rob
 

wedge

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I knew there was a reason i posted this. All good point most of which i should of thought about.

I dont really know but i guess everyone aversion to the carapils is that is adds more body to the ale than the crystal??? What actually is the difference. Can anyone explain it please? I want this beer to be quit light in colour, i realise this may not exactly meet to the style guide polices recommendations however.....

I think i may totally remove the crystal addition?

Either way i will reduce the starting gravity, thats a really good point.

I'm using the munich because i have 600grams sitting around. Sort of doing this one on a budget. I'm thinking about removing the cascade and replacing it with just amarillo. With a bittering addition at 60 and 40 minutes and final additions at 10, 5 and flameout.

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 23.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.83
Anticipated OG: 1.044 Plato: 10.87
Anticipated EBC: 14.9
Anticipated IBU: 31.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
67.4 3.25 kg. TF Maris Otter Pale Ale Malt UK 77.43 6
25.9 1.25 kg. JWM Export Pilsner Australia 76.63 3
4.7 0.22 kg. JWM Crystal 140 Australia 72.48 145
2.1 0.10 kg. JWM Wheat Malt Australia 82.41 4

Potential represented as % Yield, Coarse Grind As Is.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 17.6 60 min.
10.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 10.5 45 min.
5.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 1.2 10 min.
10.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 2.0 5 min.
20.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.20 0.0 0 min.


Yeast
-----

Craftbrewer American Ale Yeast
 

randyrob

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I want this beer to be quit light in colour


4.7 0.22 kg. JWM Crystal 140 Australia 72.48 145
Hey Mate,

sorry to bust your chops again but in my experience using neary 5% Crystal 140 won't give you a beer that is "quite light in colour"

this one was made with 2.5% Crystal 140, could be a good starting point?

waggin_tail_pale.jpg

Cheers Rob.
 

Vlad the Pale Aler

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Well since youi asked, if i wanted something "easy drinking" i'd knock it down a few points!
you're getting close to a 6% beer there depending on the attenuation of the yeast and if you bottle condition or not.

why not use a clean bittering hop first up in the kettle and then bust the cascade/amarillo combo late?

Cheers Rob

I have a simple formula for my APA's, 1.056 sg, 1056 yeast and 56 IBU's, easy to remember.
 

brendanos

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Another option to lighten it up (and make it cheaper) would be to use domestic ale base malt. You'll still get some malt character (not that you need much more with the dark munich in there), but you'll get a lighter beer than if you were to use maris otter.
 

hughman666

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why not use a clean bittering hop first up in the kettle and then bust the cascade/amarillo combo late?

Cheers Rob
i'm with rob here, in terms of the late combo of amarillo/cascade.

i've been going strong on this combo from the 30 minute mark at 15g each @ 10 minute intervals right through to 0 mins.

for the start, just a light smattering of chinook, perhaps 8-10g. some guys miss the 60 mins altogether and start banging in the amarillo/cascade combo at the 45 minute mark at 10-15 minute intervals....

test and taste! :chug:

edit: spelllling
 

Back Yard Brewer

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Another option to lighten it up (and make it cheaper) would be to use domestic ale base malt.

Totally agree.I have made a number of APA's and they have all been ale malt based.They have come out a treat,and yes the saving is good as well.I would save the Marris Otter for some english beers or dark ales.

BYB
 

rough60

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All the above will produce good beers, so here's my input for an easy drinker APA

50% Pils
35% Pale
10% Wheat
3% Light crystal
2% Melanoidin

70/30 Amirillo/B Saaz upto about 20IBU bittering and 20IBU flava/aroma
 

mikem108

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Also whats your mash temp? Too high and it will be a "thick" beer, keep the temp low for a dry crisp finish
 

drsmurto

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I used this combo in my last APA - chop and change between chinook, cascade and amarillo and combos thereof.

3.50 kg Pilsner (Weyermann) (3.3 EBC) Grain 73.68 %
0.75 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (14.0 EBC) Grain 15.79 %
0.25 kg Caramunich I (Weyermann) (100.5 EBC) Grain 5.26 %
0.25 kg Melanoidin (Weyermann) (59.1 EBC) Grain 5.26 %

For a 20L batch at 70% eff this gives me OG 1.052 and 17 EBC. Drops down to 12 EBC if you drop the caramunich.

And you have to add a metric shedload of hops at flameout and/or dry hopping. I do both.
 
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