All Grain Kolsch Recipe

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White labs WLP029 if you can get it ferments fast, clean (with required kolsch fruity/winey-ness), and flocculates a hell of a lot better than WY2565. Needs to be fermented about 18C or so with some lagering, nowhere near as much lagering/sulfur dissipation time as WY2565.

I just do no wheat (easier to clear it up) and mostly pils with a touch of vienna/munich, mash about 62-65C and add in some more malt (about 10% of grist weight) at 45m, raise temp to 70C and leave it for another 30-45m. Comes out quite dry but still with enough body. Hops - hallertau or any other german hop all the way - i like 'em with some upfront hoppiness so about 25g at 5 or 10 min before flameout helps.

Polyclar helps get it bright and clean as well even if not filtering.

On the winey flavour you can cheat and use a touch of Sauvin - 5g is plenty....
 
I used the proculture kolsch yeast P83 with great success. The recipee was based around JZ's in Brewing Classic Styles.

01-09-2010 Demolition Kolsch

A ProMash Brewing Session Report
--------------------------------

Brewing Date: Saturday January 09, 2010
Head Brewer: Cubbie
Asst Brewer:
Recipe: Demolition Kolsch

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

06-C Light Hybrid Beer, Koelsch

Min OG: 1.044 Max OG: 1.050
Min IBU: 20 Max IBU: 30
Min Clr: 4 Max Clr: 10 Color in EBC

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 24.00 Wort Size (L): 24.00
Total Grain (Kg): 4.70
Anticipated OG: 1.054 Plato: 13.34
Anticipated EBC: 6.3
Anticipated IBU: 23.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 87 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Actual OG: 1.047 Plato: 11.57
Actual FG: 1.007 Plato: 1.89

Alc by Weight: 4.04 by Volume: 5.14 From Measured Gravities.
ADF: 83.7 RDF 69.1 Apparent & Real Degree of Fermentation.

Actual Mash System Efficiency: 90 %
Anticipated Points From Mash: 54.03
Actual Points From Mash: 56.00


Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour

Raw Pre-Boil Amounts - only targeted volume/gravity and evaporation
rate taken into account:

Pre-Boil Wort Size: 30.97 L
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.042 SG 10.44 Plato

With sparge water, mash water, additional infusions, vessel losses, top-up
water and evaporation rate recorded in the Water Needed Calculator:

Water Needed Pre-Boil Wort Size: 30.90 L
Water Needed Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.042 SG 10.47 Plato


Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Tinseth
Tinseth Concentration Factor: 1.30

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
95.7 4.50 kg. Weyermann Pilsner Germany 1.038 4
4.3 0.20 kg. Weyermann Vienna Germany 1.038 7

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
48.00 g. Tettnanger Tettnang Pellet 4.10 22.4 60 min.
10.00 g. Tettnanger Tettnang Pellet 4.10 0.9 5 min.


Yeast
-----

Proculture Pro-83 German Kolsch


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Name: Kolsch Mash

Total Grain Kg: 4.70
Total Water Qts: 11.98 - Before Additional Infusions
Total Water L: 11.34 - Before Additional Infusions

Tun Thermal Mass: 0.00
Grain Temp: 24 C


Step Rest Start Stop Heat Infuse Infuse Infuse
Step Name Time Time Temp Temp Type Temp Amount Ratio
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maltose Rest 5 60 64 64 Infuse 71 11.34 2.41
Sacch Rest 5 30 70 70 Infuse 95 3.25 3.10
Mashout 5 10 77 77 Infuse 95 6.02 4.38
 
I used the proculture kolsch yeast P83 with great success. The recipee was based around JZ's in Brewing Classic Styles.

How is that Proculture yeast? I'd be keen to give that a go. I really enjoyed the wyeast 2565, and the special release 2575 has a delightful aroma and flavour that is better than the 2565 from memory. I saw Proculture had a couple of Kolsches which I'd be keen to try...if they're any good.
 
I recently used the ProCulture Deutschland Kolsch Yeast as opposed to the German Kolsch Yeast, there's a difference in the numbers and in the temps that they're meant to be fermented at.
I fermented at 17degs and got a lot of Sulfur in the kegged version, but the couple of bottle's I did seem to be fine, so not sure whether it was something in the ferment that the secondary ferment in the bottle cleaned up.
Either version was VERY cloudy, 4 weeks in the keg didn't seem to clear it up much, so if you're chasing something clear you'd definitely need finings or to filter.
My tastes aren't refined enough to tell you how wonderful the yeast was, but it tasted good and going off memory, I'd rate it higher than the wyeast version I'd used previously.
 
@TB, that's interesting. What proportions do you split your wort for separate fermentations?

T.

Sorry for doing the OT thing

I usually don't "split" the wort per se. I will make an over gravity wheat beer in my small BIAB rig, usually about 50% wheat malt, 25% wheat flour, and 25% pale/pilsner. Very very brief boil, sort of just bring it to the boil, simmer it for a few minutes and then off. Shooting for about 17 litters @ something like 1.030 into my fermenter after dilution. Ferment with something fairly neutral to a little fruity... Lager, 1272 or maybe a kolsch yeast... Mostly 1272 because it drops nice and clear.

A week or 3 or maybe more earlier......

I will have inoculated 2-3L of wort, usually just a DME mix at about 1.040 with the dregs of a bottle or two of Orval and whacked it in a warmish cupboard to go all funky and manky.

And there will be 3-5L of wort, probably from a quick arsed stovetop no-boil BIAB, but maybe from DME or spare wort from another brew that I have tossed lactic bugs at. I am unscientific about my lactic bugs. It will be a handful of crushed grain, maybe a spoonful of the clear liquid from the top of a tub of natural yoghurt, some juice out of a jar of homemade sour kraut, maybe the dregs of a bottle of sour beer... Usually a combination of more than one of these things.

The results of the oral culture are pretty consistent... It ends up stinky with bucket loads of Brett character, maybe a pellicle etc.

The lactic fermentation is an altogether unpredictable beasty.. Sometimes it's just good and sour, sometimes it's putrid, one totally bizarre time it was clean, clear and perfectly normal beer with basically no sourness.. But had never to my knowledge seen a single cell of normal yeast. If its rank, I toss it out and try again, if it's just sour and funky... Then it becomes part of the blend.

So now I have 17 litters of "normal" fairly neutral wheat beer, 2-3L of pure Brett funkiness, and 4-5l of lactic weirdness, none of which would be any damn good on their own. So you sit down with a turkey baster as a wine thief, a tasting glass, a partner and do some blending... I want about 21L into the final fermenter and I have 23-25L to play with. Generally the biggest issue is getting it sour enough without making it to funky, and I have a bottle of lactic acid if it becomes a real issue.

Then the 21L blend goes into what was the primary fermenter for a week or so to let the bugs play together for a while - or if I feel the need to make it a fruit beer, to let them have at the fruit which I would put in at that stage (I would give it a month instead of a week if it was getting fruit) and after that I keg it

And it usually only lasts a week or two over summer because I drink it by the liter when the weather is hot. Might start making double batches, it's a shit load of trouble for a keg I can knock over in a week without even getting drunk on.

TB
 
I recently used the ProCulture Deutschland Kolsch Yeast as opposed to the German Kolsch Yeast, there's a difference in the numbers and in the temps that they're meant to be fermented at.
I fermented at 17degs and got a lot of Sulfur in the kegged version, but the couple of bottle's I did seem to be fine, so not sure whether it was something in the ferment that the secondary ferment in the bottle cleaned up.
Either version was VERY cloudy, 4 weeks in the keg didn't seem to clear it up much, so if you're chasing something clear you'd definitely need finings or to filter.
My tastes aren't refined enough to tell you how wonderful the yeast was, but it tasted good and going off memory, I'd rate it higher than the wyeast version I'd used previously.


I only bottled and can't say I noticed sulfur. My beer was also reasonably bright, I may have used geletine.

Which yeast is the Deutschland and which is the German? On their website both are German P 16 and P 83
 
White labs WLP029 if you can get it ferments fast, clean (with required kolsch fruity/winey-ness), and flocculates a hell of a lot better than WY2565. Needs to be fermented about 18C or so with some lagering, nowhere near as much lagering/sulfur dissipation time as WY2565.

I just do no wheat (easier to clear it up) and mostly pils with a touch of vienna/munich, mash about 62-65C and add in some more malt (about 10% of grist weight) at 45m, raise temp to 70C and leave it for another 30-45m. Comes out quite dry but still with enough body. Hops - hallertau or any other german hop all the way - i like 'em with some upfront hoppiness so about 25g at 5 or 10 min before flameout helps.

Polyclar helps get it bright and clean as well even if not filtering.

On the winey flavour you can cheat and use a touch of Sauvin - 5g is plenty....


I'm with DJR on this one in regards to the yeast, WLP029 is a top yeast

Rook
 
WLP029 is the best. Period.

On tap at present are an APA and Chocolate Stout brewed with 029. Clean and tasting great.

Even brewed a nice Firkin Bolter with it once which Gerard_M loved. Pity he's not around anymore as many here could learn a lot from him.

A much better yeast than San Francisco lager in the circumstances for the 16 - 18C crowd. Folks would be kidding themselves if they could pick the difference.
 
I only bottled and can't say I noticed sulfur. My beer was also reasonably bright, I may have used geletine.

Which yeast is the Deutschland and which is the German? On their website both are German P 16 and P 83

Hmm, when I posted, I was at work and going off memory. Now I'm home (and obviously completely sober)...

PRO-107
Deutschland Kolsch Yeast

Attenuation: 73-77%
Flocculation: Low (Yeah, no shit !)
Optimum Temp: 13-21degs C

I can't recall which I was comparing it to in the LHBS fridge. I know that this one had a much lower temp range than the other which was ~ 18-22 or some such.
It was a reasonably old vial, maybe they don't do this one anymore.
 
some advice on a 5kg Kolsch grain bill would be appreciated,

planned on a simple Pilsner base + 10% wheat, seems I'm out of wheat and wont make it to the LBS today, thinking it may lack head retention without it,
should I think about using say 100g of carapils or crystal 20 I have, or would that just bugger up the style?
cheers
Mike
 
I just use pilsener malt and a dash of vienna (about 5%) for my kolsch. It's a great style.

cheers

grant
 
I've got some Munich, I'll go 5% with that,
carapils..., what was I thinking
cheers
 
Just brewing a Kolsch after using this and other threads for hints/tips. Thought I would add some comments on WLP029. I pitched 2 vials into a 1L starter at 16degC, about 6 hrs before pitching into the main wort at 16degC. Definite Krausen 12 hours later. It is now 4 days since pitching and the wort is at 1.011, predicted FG. Very impressed with the attenuation at that temp as it is below the temp (18degC) recommended by White Labs.
 
waggastew said:
Just brewing a Kolsch after using this and other threads for hints/tips. Thought I would add some comments on WLP029. I pitched 2 vials into a 1L starter at 16degC, about 6 hrs before pitching into the main wort at 16degC. Definite Krausen 12 hours later. It is now 4 days since pitching and the wort is at 1.011, predicted FG. Very impressed with the attenuation at that temp as it is below the temp (18degC) recommended by White Labs.
How did the Kolsch turn out Stu? I have one in the fermenter now using BIAB. Hoping it clears up well.
 
Extended low temperature lagering is generally required to get your kolsch to clear well. Fining helps too.
 
Mardoo said:
Extended low temperature lagering is generally required to get your kolsch to clear well. Fining helps too.
Currently sitting on 15c, has been since Sunday. Airlock clicks over every 8-10 seconds. I added half a tablet of Irish Moss 15 mins before end of the boil. Is this what you mean by fining?
 
This is from a retailers site...
"Add 1/2 a tablet per 20- 23 liters to the kettle in the last 5 minutes of the boil.
Whirlfloc recommend if boiled any longer than 10 minutes, the active ingredients become denatured and fail to achieve intended results."
Your irish moss may not have helped that much. Search AHB for "gelatine" you can use it with cold crashing to help clear your beer.
 
Bridges said:

This is from a retailers site...

"Add 1/2 a tablet per 20- 23 liters to the kettle in the last 5 minutes of the boil.

Whirlfloc recommend if boiled any longer than 10 minutes, the active ingredients become denatured and fail to achieve intended results."

Your irish moss may not have helped that much. Search AHB for "gelatine" you can use it with cold crashing to help clear your beer.
whirfloc it was sorry. I used Irish moss in a fat yak copy. I added the whirfloc at 15 mins. The crap at the bottom looks minuscule compared to what I've had before so maybe it's working?
 
They are Irish moss tablets. Packet says 5 min but I'm sure the guys from g&g told us 15min. Maybe that's why it takes so long to settle out... Something to try on ur porter Reardo?
 

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