9 gallon XXXX cask. My Precioussssssssssss

[earle]

S.E. I take it I'd have to get soft and hard shives from the UK?

Sounds like you'd have a pretty good chance of just getting soft ones and making them hard yourself h34r:

 

[sponge]

I know a guy for that.. $5 a pop.

 

[Bribie G]

Thanks Sponge, I really only need the hard ones, because I won't be using the cask for UK style real ale conditioning, rather as the traditional Aussie / European and pre Prohibition American use of casks to transport and keep bright beer.

Can you make enquiries? 2 inch slightly tapered required.

 

[S.E]

Thanks guys, currently following up with Anthony at CB to see if they have an adaptor.
S.E. I saw your design and seriously thinking of going that way, just a matter of harvesting CO2, may have to go back to a modified airlock thingo :huh: My clingwrap will hate me.

My shive hole is bang on 2"

I have been harvesting co2 from the fermenter but if you have co2 for your keg system it would be easier to just fill the polypin from that. The polypin just collapses replacing the beer being drawn from the cask.

 

[S.E]

S.E. I take it I'd have to get soft and hard shives from the UK?

You won’t need hard or soft spiles if you are keeping the cask toped up with co2. Spiles are only used (to fill the hole in the Shive) if allowing air to replace the beer being drawn off in the traditional manner.

If using the polypin method you could block the tube between the polypin and cask with something porous like a small bit of tissue, cotton wool or something to act as a soft spile but I haven’t tried that yet.

You could also put a little weight on the polypin. Piece of wood, small book or something to give a little co2 pressure in the cask

 

[S.E]

I know a guy for that.. $5 a pop.

I thought you had given all that up since getting married?

 

[S.E]

Thanks Sponge, I really only need the hard ones, because I won't be using the cask for UK style real ale conditioning, rather as the traditional Aussie / European and pre Prohibition American use of casks to transport and keep bright beer.

Can you make enquiries? 2 inch slightly tapered required.

Usually with a UK Firkin you would use the hard and soft spile to vent the cask and prepare it for tapping.

In your case as you will have the tap fitted (I’m assuming) before venting, you can vent with the cask upright through the tap then lay it horizontal for serving. You will still need to whack the hole through the shive and connect the polypin or whatever for a couple days to let the beer drop bright again.

 

[Bribie G]

I'm thinking of dropping the beer bright in a couple of cornies in my spare kegerator then gently transfer them to the CO2 flushed cask. However I need something robust to put in the spile hole, especially when transporting to a case swap day whatever.

 

[TidalPete]

Bribie G, on 26 Feb 2016 - 9:39 PM, said:

However I need something robust to put in the spile hole, especially when transporting to a case swap day whatever.

Ah yes! That has always been the question since post one.
Congrats on your latest acquisition Bribie.

 

[booargy]

A snaplok adaptor is 3/4 bsp

 

[Bribie G]

A snaplok adaptor is 3/4 bsp

Looks like that's the way I'll be going, Anthony at CB is on the case for me.

 

[HBHB]

Sheesh, last time I saw one of those we were spearing it in the back row at the Keperra Drive Inn and spraying sandman's and bean bags with beer.

Now I really feel old

 

[Weizguy]

FWIW, hard and soft spiles available from Brewery Services Australia, run by one of the more long-term AHB contributors, Bigfridge. (edited for spelling only)

 

[booargy]

I have a 9 and 18 for a bung I was think a silicon bung with a stainless bolt and wing nut through it. So you can jam the bung in and just squash it out with the bolt to tighten it. As a safety measure the bolt could be a wide tee to stop it coming out under pressure.

 

[Bribie G]

Les, I didn't realise BigFridge was still in business. I wish you hadn't mentioned that, now suddenly I can't get thoughts of a beer engine out of my brain.

aarrgghhhhhh

I think this is going to end up the most expensive $25 I've ever spent :lol:

 

[Weizguy]

sorry. ( but only a little bit).

I also have aspirations regarding a beer engine. Are you kicking off a bulk buy right now?

 

[Mardoo]

Everyone thinking of getting into brewing should read this thread, because this is how a brewer turns $25 into $250

 

[Weizguy]

Everyone thinking of getting into brewing should read this thread, because this is how a brewer turns $25 into $250

or buy a conical and find that you need a new larger fridge to fit that bugger....

 

[bradsbrew]

Bribie shoot LRGoomba a pm, a gave him a few stainless bits a while back. He may just have what you need.

 

[Batz]

Bribie, I just had a thought regarding the old style BM taps.

These are 3/4" BSP, they did have a problem with slight dripping when doing the boil (they seemed OK at ambient or cool temperatures) it was also difficult to clamp a drain hose on because of the outlet taper.
Anyway most owners swapped out for a ball value, seems the original will be perfect for these kegs. I'm sure someone here would have one spare that they would be willing to give you, quick and inexpensive fix? My guess is all original BM owners have one at home somewhere.