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50lt Keggle

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Lazy

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I recently converted an old beer keg that I got from my FIL. There was a lot of conflicting views on the web so I thought I’d share my experience.
I used a cut off wheel and abrasive flap disc from bunning for the top hole.
I then used a step drill and knock out die from keg land. These worked well with a battery drill on slow using chainsaw oil mixed with water.
I installed a 2200w element and a ball valve with a 90 degree elbow as the pick up. It leaves 3lts and picks up a bit of hop trub. This settles in the cold crash.
The element gets 38lt from 20 to 70c in 1 hour 10 and to the boil in 40 mins. The boil is a perfect rolling boil that doesn’t evaporate too much. (4lt per hour).
I use a pizza tray as a lid and a $10 Kmart yoga mat for insulating.
Including the bag and ratchet pulley from bunnings, it was around $125 for the build
 

mje1980

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I had pretty much the same thing for a few years, except gas fired. Simple and very effective.

Great view!
 

Malted Mick

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Yah, keep it simple and in the interest of perfecting a great basic BIAB set up here are my thoughts and experience. If you can find a dumped keg, my came of of the kerbside it can be a cheap way to get into all grain brewing. Cost can be as low as $125 for a ball valve, temp gauge, heating element, chiller coil, bag and ratchet pulley. Just bear im mind that you can get a Brewzilla fot around $300 so it pays to scrounge and shop around!
I have a 50 lt keggle gas fired, with a 1" ball valve, (its what I had in the shed) at the same position as yours and with a short probe temp gauge on the opposite side at the same height. The temp gauge from KL is very accurate and was a great addition to my setup. I used a large fire blanket as insulation as flames sometimes came up the sides. I tried a helix coil connected to a tee on my outlet but it blocks up with trub. I am going back to no helix coil and have fitted a upturned elbow to leave about 4 litres of trub and hopefully not suck off too much trub! Prior to fitting the helix coil, I did a second whirlpool after removing my chiller coil at around 28c and let it sit covered up for about an hour to let it settle out. I found that by opening the ball valve slightly I could get a reasonable flow rate without disturbing the trub too much. Likewise I had about 3 litres remaining which I dumped. I plan on ordering a 2200w element when they are back in stock at KL and switch over to electric. Burning gas and the resultant fumes worries me a bit!
Lazy did you consider using a power controller to regulate the heating? I will try the simple power on/off to adjust my mash temp when I go electric.
 

Lazy

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Yah, keep it simple and in the interest of perfecting a great basic BIAB set up here are my thoughts and experience. If you can find a dumped keg, my came of of the kerbside it can be a cheap way to get into all grain brewing. Cost can be as low as $125 for a ball valve, temp gauge, heating element, chiller coil, bag and ratchet pulley. Just bear im mind that you can get a Brewzilla fot around $300 so it pays to scrounge and shop around!
I have a 50 lt keggle gas fired, with a 1" ball valve, (its what I had in the shed) at the same position as yours and with a short probe temp gauge on the opposite side at the same height. The temp gauge from KL is very accurate and was a great addition to my setup. I used a large fire blanket as insulation as flames sometimes came up the sides. I tried a helix coil connected to a tee on my outlet but it blocks up with trub. I am going back to no helix coil and have fitted a upturned elbow to leave about 4 litres of trub and hopefully not suck off too much trub! Prior to fitting the helix coil, I did a second whirlpool after removing my chiller coil at around 28c and let it sit covered up for about an hour to let it settle out. I found that by opening the ball valve slightly I could get a reasonable flow rate without disturbing the trub too much. Likewise I had about 3 litres remaining which I dumped. I plan on ordering a 2200w element when they are back in stock at KL and switch over to electric. Burning gas and the resultant fumes worries me a bit!
Lazy did you consider using a power controller to regulate the heating? I will try the simple power on/off to adjust my mash temp when I go electric.
I am only 2 brews in. I heat to 70 and mash with no heat. The mash starts at 67 and drops about 1.
I worry about burning the bag with the element on?
Great tip in slowing the tap.
I no chill cube so I leave for 20 mins so it goes in hot.
it had about 5cm of fluffy trub that settled during fermentation. I did my first cold crash and can’t believe the clarity. I bottle and cannot see a yeast layer. In PET and it feels carbed.
Thanks for the info and advice.
image.jpg
 

kadmium

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I am only 2 brews in. I heat to 70 and mash with no heat. The mash starts at 67 and drops about 1.
I worry about burning the bag with the element on?
Great tip in slowing the tap.
I no chill cube so I leave for 20 mins so it goes in hot.
it had about 5cm of fluffy trub that settled during fermentation. I did my first cold crash and can’t believe the clarity. I bottle and cannot see a yeast layer. In PET and it feels carbed.
Thanks for the info and advice.View attachment 119341
Be careful with clear plastic, it will get light strike and skunk up. Make sure you keep them in the dark.
 

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