40l Nut brown ale is 1 pkt of Wyeast enough and dry hop suggestions

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Neanderthal

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I brewed a double batch of a nut brown ale.


Muntons Nut Brown Ale
2 cans nut brown ale
1 can coopers Dark malt
1 can coopers light malt

Steeped in the over 67C

250 Wheat malt
100 Chocolate malt
300 Crystal malt
250 Caramunich 11

approx 46L water

OG 1.0447

For the yeast I bought 1pkt Whitebread ale Wyest, would the one packer be enough for this volume? I havent used liquid yests before.

Also what would be a good hops to add for fry hopping.
What would go best, Goldings, cluster or cascade.
 

treefiddy

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An easier way might be to make your brew up as planned, but only use two of the cans.
Pitch the yeast into the cooled wort (volume 23 litres) and aerate as usual.
When you see activity (Krausen), dissolve the last two cans into the fermenter with another 23 L of water (final volume 46 L).

I think that's called a texas two step.
 

Neanderthal

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Ok I am new to starter I only usually rehydrate dry yeast with the wort for 30 mins.

So to make a starter is the following correct?


So i need to have 342 million yeast cells.

To get this i use 4.5 l water added 400gm of DME , boil for a few mins then chill

Smack the pack let sit for 10 mins, sterilize yeast pack and pour yeast to starter

cover with sanitised alfoil and shake hourly wile at a temp of aound 22-25C

When I finish do I pour the 4 liters in to the fermenter or do I drain off the clear liquid and just add the slurry into fermenter.
 

seamad

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Rehydrate dry yeast with water not wort.
If you put the manufacture date into yeastcalc your yeast is about 3 weeks old ?
Easy way to make starter is 450g dme then make up to 4.5l. ( easy ratio)
Let yeast settle out and pour off oxidised beer, good idea to have a taste to make sure no infection, but will taste oxidised.
Next step is get a stirplate, there is a recent thread on a new one out, @ $75 and it's a ripper, much better than my previous homemade jobby.Improves yeast growth rate/health.
Then check out how to split smackpacks ( wolfy and tony )
cheers
sean
 

peas_and_corn

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is a basic video about how to make a starter. This is the best place to start when it comes to basic yeast handling to ensure a proper fermentation. While some of the details people may disagree with, the principles of boil wort-> chill-> add yeast-> aerate. When I make starters I step up a couple of times as well to larger containers with more wort to get more yeast growth.
 
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Neanderthal

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seamad said:
Rehydrate dry yeast with water not wort.
Ok interesting, I have only ever pulled off 250mls of the brew I am about to ferment into a steralized pint glass, add yeast, stir vigorously, cover with glad wrap and leave until the yeast is growing and pop into fermenter.


I hadn't actually changed the manufacture date, that makes a huge difference, I need to make a 17 liter starter
 

seamad

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With dry yeast the cell wall is easily damaged ( ruptured) so follow the yeast makers directions regarding the temp of the water to maximise the # of viable cells.

You are better off stepping starters as already suggested as putting too few yeast cells in wort and trying to get a lot of growth results in a lot of crook cells.With really old yeast I do 50ml/ 200ml/ 800ml etc, I try to keep the growth factor @5 and under, you can go higher but I prefer not to rush things. Get a stir plate if you are serious about using liquid yeasts and some Erlenmeyer flasks, by splitting packs you will eventually recover the costs.

Hope this helps
 

Neanderthal

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Cheers Seamad.

I have done an hour or two of vids and reading and pretty much came to the same conclusion re stir plate and flasks. I will just pitch some US 05 in this batch as its waiting in the fermenter.

I do have the Yeast: the practical guide to beer fermentation in the mail so may wait until after I read that to play with liquid yeasts.

Thanks for the info thogh as I used your post as a basis for what I needed to study.
 

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