3v AG to BIAB No Chill - A downgrade of major success

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bear09

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Hey All,

Its probably a story told before but for me... wow. Have worked my way up the ranks to 3v AG brewing and spent a fortune alone the way. Ive had some minor success and a heck of a lot of failure. I was on the cusp of giving up brewing for good when at the last minute my old man expressed a small interest in giving it a try. I thought 'stuff it' and so he and I spent about $200 together on a large pot, bag and a few other pipes, connectors and spoons/chemicals etc.

I am in just pure shock about it all. BIAB NO CHILL has given us some of the most delicious beers. Not only are these beers delicious but they are bright and hold a head to the bottom of the glass (of which said head is thick like a layer of cream with the tiniest bubbles I have ever seen). On top of this the two things I always HATED about 3v Brewing were sparging and chilling - BOTH of which are eliminated from the process under BIAB NO CHILL.

So anyone out there thinking of taking the plunge into AG brewing I can only recommend to you that you start with BIAB NC. Its cheap to setup, easy and fun to do and will yield you a quality of brew you couldnt possibly imagine.

Enjoy.
 
3 V no chill should be just as good what went wrong
 
I started with BIAB NC 3 years ago.

Still doing it now with no plans to "upgrade". I like the simplicity of it and I'm more than happy with my results, so I really don't need more shit to waste money on or clean up after a brew day. :p
 
3v for 10 years. Saw side by side Comparison at a club brew day. Sold my mash tun within a week and got a bag. Now have less gear, taking up less space.

Beers are as good as before.

I work as a manitenance fitter so I get to play around with lots of pumps, valves and all sorts of whizz bang tools at work, at all hours of the night, so at home I like the KISS of biab.

No better no worse just different
 
The difference between BIAB and the "traditional" methods is that you remove the grain from the wort, not the wort from the grain.
I often wish that BIAB had never been named BIAB, because it only refers to one stage in the journey of the grain to the brain.

Should really have been called MIAB (Mash in bag) or in my case MIABBCSOV (Mash in a bloody big circular sheet of voile)
 
I got into All Grain Brewing well before bag brewing came to be.

Like many, I graduated from vessel to vessel, mash tun to mash tun, kettle to kettle, no herms to herms, full on electric controllers,
Gas burners to "better" gas burners, and so the develpoment goes on.

I made beer.....:)

Then one day after many sleepless nights thinking about it I bought a 20 litre BM and I luv it...brewing made easy, clean, predictable, and with a great result.

A couple of years later my son, who has never done AG before and is sick of doing Kand K with poor results asks me can he make beers like I make them.

I said lets give BIAB a go so, he gets given an old urn from a local footy club, cleans it up and gets it working, we buy a bag and I crush him some grain and away he goes.......no chill and ferments as usual with his temp controlled fridge from the k and k days.

His comments and my observations.....are the best beer he has ever made.

BIAB is a great method and a very economical way to get into AG brewing....I would not go to it over my BM but IMO it is way ahead of a 3 v development model. If you go 3v plan it very carefully BEFORE any commitment.

My view is, an electric fired kettle with a simple mash method is a very economical way to achieve a great brew in an enjoyable way without a big outlay of hard earned money
 
Bribie G said:
or in my case MIABBCSOV (Mash in a bloody big circular sheet of voile)
definitely an acronym that would have taken off ;)
 
I started out with BIAB and find it a great way to brew. The only issue I have come across is that it is a challenge to hit really high gravities say over 1.080. There's ways to do it but it's more fiddly.

It seems to me that 3v brewing is an attempt to mimic commercial breweries on a small scale and that although it was popularized by a few brewers on here that it was probably a method used by many home brewers historically.

No doubt people have been making beer at home for hundreds if not thousands of years and it's easier to imagine them doing it with one big pot than having complex 3v systems.

I think it is more than a great entry point into all grain brewing it's a great method full stop!
 
bear09 said:
Hey All,
Its probably a story told before but for me... wow. Have worked my way up the ranks to 3v AG brewing and spent a fortune alone the way. Ive had some minor success and a heck of a lot of failure. I was on the cusp of giving up brewing for good when at the last minute my old man expressed a small interest in giving it a try. I thought 'stuff it' and so he and I spent about $200 together on a large pot, bag and a few other pipes, connectors and spoons/chemicals etc.

I am in just pure shock about it all. BIAB NO CHILL has given us some of the most delicious beers. Not only are these beers delicious but they are bright and hold a head to the bottom of the glass (of which said head is thick like a layer of cream with the tiniest bubbles I have ever seen). On top of this the two things I always HATED about 3v Brewing were sparging and chilling - BOTH of which are eliminated from the process under BIAB NO CHILL.
So anyone out there thinking of taking the plunge into AG brewing I can only recommend to you that you start with BIAB NC. Its cheap to setup, easy and fun to do and will yield you a quality of brew you couldnt possibly imagine.

Enjoy.
Why did you use a chiller then? Was nothing stopping you from going no chill off the bat..

I use a hybrid 3v herms setup but can all be gravity fed, open the tap on the hlt and walk away and do something else for half hour if I fly sparge.. I also exclusively no chill, I don't understand why, if you didn't enjoy chilling you persisted with it. How is ot any different to BIAB? Surely it's just the extraction method that differs.
 
I stopped doing BIAB when my grain bill was ~9kg for an imperial pilsner. Trying to lift that mofo up when it's absorbed water and squeezing... urgh.

Anyway, the scientist in me says that if everything else is controlled and done properly, there should be very little difference except for efficiency. It sounds like your bag gives you a clearer wort. Perhaps your lautering process with your three vessel (sometimes I really get tired of how many acronyms exist) setup may have had room for improvement.

Nevertheless, it's great that you've found a process that works for you.

I suspect a lot of people here, myself included, find that playing with our brewing equipment is half the fun and hence like the added complexity of the three vessel set up.
 
klangers said:
I suspect a lot of people here, myself included, find that playing with our brewing equipment is half the fun and hence like the added complexity of the three vessel set up.
totes, with the HERMS it's currently 4V (for me) and Im just about to build a 5th V so I can do reiterated mashes more easily (1.100+ beers)

tinker tinker... love the tinkering
 
I'm currently building a 3v set up. I have biabed for about 2 years and love it but I wanted something abit more involved. I don't have kids and this is my only main hobby so I am free to spend a bit more time on my hobby.
I will still do the occasional biab for experimental stuff. I think it's each the there own set up wise as each person may have different factors that may inhibit them enjoying the hobby.
I no chill now and will continue to.
 
Hey Everyone - thanks a lot for the feedback. Im glad to hear that I am not alone. So a few things...

'I also exclusively no chill, I don't understand why, if you didn't enjoy chilling you persisted with it. How is ot any different to BIAB? Surely it's just the extraction method that differs.' --> I have done a lot of reading on chilling in that it helps to lock in hop flavour and profile. No chill is a long slow constant cool down which does have an affect on the potency of the hops. I chilled because I was trying to do what breweries do.

'I stopped doing BIAB when my grain bill was ~9kg for an imperial pilsner. Trying to lift that mofo up when it's absorbed water and squeezing... urgh.': Fortunately the old man is handy with a welder and whipped me up a basic crane. Our grain bill is 11kg normally and we hoist it up like its nothing :)

I got to 3v as fast as I could because I wanted to do it how the big boys did. I ALWAYS found sparging a challenge be it fly or batch (I tried both many times). I always found sparging to be very time consuming... same deal with chilling. For me so far BIAB has been simpler, more fun, more rewarding, cheaper, easier and has yielded me some of the best possible results I could have ever imagined. Taking a step back has been really helpful indeed.
 
bear09 said:
I got to 3v as fast as I could because I wanted to do it how the big boys did. I ALWAYS found sparging a challenge be it fly or batch (I tried both many times). I always found sparging to be very time consuming... same deal with chilling. For me so far BIAB has been simpler, more fun, more rewarding, cheaper, easier and has yielded me some of the best possible results I could have ever imagined. Taking a step back has been really helpful indeed.
Hey mate, why do you find batch sparging to be so time consuming?

I do it pretty crudely and there is little more than 15 - 20 minutes in the whole process for me?

After mash i pour off a little to clear the tube in my false bottom mash tun and then run it all off (gravity fed) into the kettle. I then top back up my mash tun with the require liquid in 5l lots form my jug and pour it over my mash paddle to make sure it doesn't disturb the grain too much. I then leave it for 15 and then run off again. I hit my OG's every time?

Just wondering if I am not giving this process enough attention?
 
Can you tell me the difference between no chilling from BIAB and no chilling from 3v?

I'm glad you've got it going with your old man, that's cool..
 
Wouldn't the fact that no-chilling is in a sealed vessel lock in the hop profile anyway? :unsure:
 
No.
Heat above about 80 sees alpha acids isomerising which allows them to dissolve more effectively, thus adding to bitterness.

While volatile aromatic compounds will not be driven off as they would be in an open vessel, they are delicate and I believe the extended heat will change their chemistry.
 
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