Okey dokey, I'll give a slightly more detailed explanation, given I was using my tablet and waiting for the car to be jump started in the garage. Now I have a full sized keyboard.
Basically, the shortest answer is look at the 2pot link in my sig and work it out from there, if you'd like.
Long answer is:
I punched in the 32 Litres (I got better than that, so used the dilution calc to bring it up to the OG I wanted. I had a gut feeling it would work out that way, so I upped the IBU by 5 IBU to cover its dilution - not very scientific, but it's a method that serves me well) into brewmate, and jigged the strike water to the size of my mash tun (25L esky). I could use a bigger esky, but I reckon that 18L is about the limit of my ghetto lauter tun (more on that later).
Whilst the grain was mashing, I filled one of the entire big w pots with water for the 25L sparge (it can only contain about 18L max) and brought it up to sparge temp. The kettle (1.5L per boil run) made up the balance.
I lautered into the unused pot, and then commenced sparging with the water in the big pot was at sparge temp. I emptied half of it, and sparged through enough to fill up pot #1 and buy me the space needed to top up the sparging (I would guesstimate about 4-6L).
I then split the first runnings, plus the first bit of sparge evenly between the two pots (well actually, I split slightly higher volume to pot 2, given it will be the 2nd under the sparge and the sparge runnings are thinner by that stage - I'm never more than .002 out between the two pots, so it works).
I start sparging. When the pots have as much as they can manage before a boilover will occur (about 17L each), I put them on the stove and start 30minutes on the timer (of 90 minutes).
I use the kettle and run 4-5 lots (6-7.5L) of kettle boiled water though (it's actually around 81 degrees, which brewmate calculates my sparge water should be). I let it filter.
At the end of 30 minutes, enough has boiled off to put the remaining sparge runnings in. Hops go in, timer goes on for 60 minutes and I go and read a book for an hour.
Timer goes off, the boil is done, the rest - you all know.
Things I'd do differently?
I'd probably fill up each pot to about 15L each - so I have lots of head room for the massive rolling boil my stove is capable of. I reckon more will boil off in 30 minutes if I do that (boil off rate is higher when the stove is on full), and then I top up with the sparge runnings after 30 minutes. I reckon I'll gain probably about 3L or more per pot for the same amount of time, and less risk of a boilover. It will also be a good habit for heavy beers.
Other notes:
I reckon if I did a 120 minute boil, I could get it up to about 1.060 after dilution (not before), thus meaning an AIPA/Strong Lager is possible at over 30L; or alternatively a 1.045-1.050 beer is quite do-able in about 40L (after dilution). The key would be an extra staggered sparge or two (or use the 9L Mrs Pasta Pot to collect runnings and gradually add those as I can) - eg. 30 minute boil off, add sparge runnings once, extra 30 minute boil, add 2nd lot of sparge runnings and then start 60 minute boil off.
For lagers, it'll take longer, I prefer a 90 minute boil on lagers, so add another 30 minutes.
My beers end up being slightly caramelised (and darker) with a longer boil (and my stove), but generally the fact that I need to back dilute when cooled to get to the OG I want, means that I generally dilute the colour back to the required colour anyway.
I use more hops. Not much more, but more - as I do have to compensate for the dilution. I have a rule of thumb - about 25% increase in IBU will see me right.
Sorry if this is too long/not enough piccies.
Goomba
