240V 30amp Mechanical Relays

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jlmcgrath

Well-Known Member
Joined
18/3/11
Messages
65
Reaction score
44
Hey everyone,

In the gathering stages of putting a control panel together. Very similar to the Electric Brewery setup, but using a gas boil and no volt/amp meters.

I am having a really hard time finding panel mount 240v 30amp mechanical relays for the element switching. I see lots of people using Clion relays but can't seem to find any without having to order 200 of them, or paying $45 each for shipping.

Do I suck that badly at using google?

Anyone have any tips?

Cheers,

Jeff
 
I have SSR's to switch the elements on and off when the PID wants them to. I am looking for mechanical relays so I can use a switch to turn the elements off is I need to.
 
Just put a switch inline with the ssr trigger
 
Try looking for larger current switching relays... I ended up with 80A relays as they were available and reasonably priced.

First hit on aliexpress for me was us$28 for two, free postage. Searched for "80a relay" although often it helps to add the word coil.

No linky sorry, on phone. There was another one there for us$18 ea.
 
Could use a low volt switch on the control side of the ssr.
 
If you are wanting to have electrical isolation then I would stick to the relay/switch on the downstream side of the SSR. Those SSR devices are more fragile than a relay and could fail at an inopportune time, even when working normally they have a small leakage current that may cause safety concerns.
Dave
 
Wow! The difference in returned search results between 80 amp relay and 80a relay is crazy. Thanks for helping to learn the internets. :D

Just to confirm my thoughts really quickly. I will have 2 feeds to my control panel. One 10A and the other 15A. 10A runs the HLT, 15A runs herms, electronics and pumps.

Control panel will have a master key switch. I would use 1 x DPDT relay for the incoming feeds, and a SPST for each of the elements?

Thanks again everyone.

Jeff
 
Throw some links up of the gear that your finding mate, may be able to help better
 
Would you need 2 dpdt for the feeds,1 for each? or instead of isolating the neutral aswell are you just going to use 1 leg for each active supply?
 
Thanks for posting that Dave, it all just clicked. So I would need 4 DPDT total.
 
Like Dave81 says you'd be better to use DPDT to isolate A&N to the elements. My main relay only isolates the active in but I would use DPDT's if I had to do it again.
 
MitchD said:
So many experts so little good advice.
You're an electrician, right? If you see bad electrical advice being given to a forum member then maybe you can chime in and contribute to someone's safety instead of just dropping a smug comment and moving on.
 
Perhaps all the non electricians could stop offering poor advice.

The op hasnt posted any plans so I dont know what he plans to control and how. But I would never be wiring the neutral through a contactor.
 
MitchD said:
But I would never be wiring the neutral through a contactor.
Normally yes but, as the final point of isolation before the element of a portable water heater that may well be supplied via an extension lead, I think a double pole switch/relay would be a good idea.
Dave
 
Back
Top