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$15 Kmart Pot / CraftBeerPi BIAB Rig

Aussie Home Brewer

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mickeytee

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Hello AHB Crew,

Thought I would share a few pics of my frankenstein CraftBeerPi rig capable of currently doing 10L AG batches but built for expansion. First brew under the belt on Friday night and it didn't skip a beat. Ultimately heading for a HERMS system but have a few life things going on that are currently taking precedence.

Wiring is a bit messy and still using solderless breadboard to be sorted soon but the guts of it is:-

Controller:
Raspberry Pi 3B+ running Raspbian + CraftBeerPi3
2x Fotek SSR25DA Solid State Relays
2X DS18B20 Temp Sensors
1x MeanWell 15W 5v 3A Power Supply
1× 15A RCD
Mini XLR Connectors for Temp Sensors
IEC Connectors for Power
ABS Plastic Enclosure

Mash/Boil Vessel
15.1L Anko Stock Pot from Kmart
1x 240v 2000W Heating Element
1x 100mm 1/2" Stainless Thermowell
1x Weldless Bulkhead/Ballvalve Outlet
1x False Bottom

Will be adding insulation around kettle before next brew to keep mash temps closer to the mark when element is not on. CraftBeerPi autotune for the PID works pretty well tho.

Feel free to ask any questions or if anybody out there has upgrade suggestions im all ears!

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hoppy2B

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BigW have a 19 litre pot for $20, or at least they used to. They probably still do for all I know.
 

matt77

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How warm does the box get with 2 solid state relays?
 

burrster

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Just feel the need to say, you should get a qualified electrician to check out your work, as I'm not convinced it's safe.
 

mickeytee

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How warm does the box get with 2 solid state relays?
Hasn't been an issue at all matt - the RPi actually gets hotter than the relays.

Just feel the need to say, you should get a qualified electrician to check out your work, as I'm not convinced it's safe.
Have done so already burrster. What leads you to not be convinced that it isn't safe; the lack of earthing given all the third pins on the IEC's don't have connections?


Cheers
 

mickeytee

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Hi Mickeytee,

Nice looking setup. I'm looking to do something similar in the near future as I transition from heating with a gas burner to an eBIAB setup. Perhaps a silly question but what is the 'Aux' temp sensor for?

To follow on from hoppy2B- Big W still sell this pot. Here is the link https://www.bigw.com.au/product/smart-value-19-litre-stock-pot/p/3083819/
Not a silly question at all coolnerf! The 'Aux' temp is just another temp sensor. For example given the DS18B20 temp sensors are waterproof currently I run the "thermowell temp" sensor in the thermowell at the bottom of the kettle and just for curiosity sake put the "aux temp" probe into the top of the kettle in the wort to gauge the temp difference without having the mash recirculate (as I am yet to get my pump).

I designed it into my system basically to not restrict myself from expansion in the future, given i want to move to a HERMS system and would like 2 temp outputs then.

If you need a hand with your eBIAB setup I would be more than happy to help.

Cheers for the bigW link!
 

burrster

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Hasn't been an issue at all matt - the RPi actually gets hotter than the relays.



Have done so already burrster. What leads you to not be convinced that it isn't safe; the lack of earthing given all the third pins on the IEC's don't have connections?


Cheers
Yes, lack of earth. It's hard to say exactly what is Happening without closer inspection, but the not sure what a 32A breaker(not a 15A rcd as original stated) is doing in there, probably should be 10A max, as it seems it plugs into a 10A gpo, but depending on what is plugged into it, could draw more than 10A. The breaker appears to be switching neutral( but cannot say for sure from those images). Which is unsafe. The point is I felt an obligation to say something, and I am aware alot of DIY goes on, and safety be the first priority.
 

mickeytee

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Yes, lack of earth. It's hard to say exactly what is Happening without closer inspection, but the not sure what a 32A breaker(not a 15A rcd as original stated) is doing in there, probably should be 10A max, as it seems it plugs into a 10A gpo, but depending on what is plugged into it, could draw more than 10A. The breaker appears to be switching neutral( but cannot say for sure from those images). Which is unsafe. The point is I felt an obligation to say something, and I am aware alot of DIY goes on, and safety be the first priority.
Thanks burrster point taken, do you have any reccomendations in regards to earthing out the heating element itself (given it only has a 2 pole live/neutral on the element with no third grounding terminal)?


Cheers mate much appreciated
 

burrster

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Thanks burrster point taken, do you have any reccomendations in regards to earthing out the heating element itself (given it only has a 2 pole live/neutral on the element with no third grounding terminal)?


Cheers mate much appreciated
In all honesty, I'm not keen to give advice on a public forum, given how many people read it, and the interpret it to suit themselves. That said, you have bolted an electric element to a metal 'body' and not earth it. If that element breaks down mid use your setup now has the potential to be live, and when you touch it, the potential to harm you, or worse. So first things first, connect all required earth's in your control box, and then get you vessel earthed some how. This in turn earths the outer casing of the element as it is bolted to the vessel. Also if what I've noted is true regarding the breaker, replace it with a 10A and have it operate on the active side. Getting a qualified electrician to sort this out for you is the best way to stay safe, as it cannot be done on an internet forum, via advice, only in person, by the qualified person.
 

Truman42

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Tidy up complete. Updates to be posted once pump arrives! HERMS build shouldn't be too far around the corner utilising more budget pots...

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Looks good mate, i just did the same thing to my guten and used thats ame project box you did. I added an LCD screen and I can switch between the Guten controls or the CBPi controls.
Take a look here.
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/craftbeerpi-brew-controller.90757/page-10#post-1541952

Please dont take this the wrong way but those SSRs are the fake ones and will possibly fail with only 3v3 coming from the Pis GPIO pins. I brought an Inkbird SSR but still use a Darlington array setup to power my SSR with 5v. But you can actually go up to 12 v.
 

mickeytee

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Looks good mate, i just did the same thing to my guten and used thats ame project box you did. I added an LCD screen and I can switch between the Guten controls or the CBPi controls.
Take a look here.
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/craftbeerpi-brew-controller.90757/page-10#post-1541952

Please dont take this the wrong way but those SSRs are the fake ones and will possibly fail with only 3v3 coming from the Pis GPIO pins. I brought an Inkbird SSR but still use a Darlington array setup to power my SSR with 5v. But you can actually go up to 12 v.
You've done a bloody nice job mate! I just love the versatility of the RPi! Looks like we have used the same size jaycar box! Pity they dont make one a smidge bigger...

Yeah the no "Made in Taiwan" label on my SSR's gave it away. Will keep using them til they die and will do a bit more research. I haven't even been brewing much as I am in the process of moving house and fermentation temp control is a pain at the moment but I love the tinkering side of things!!
 

Truman42

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You've done a bloody nice job mate! I just love the versatility of the RPi! Looks like we have used the same size jaycar box! Pity they dont make one a smidge bigger...

Yeah the no "Made in Taiwan" label on my SSR's gave it away. Will keep using them til they die and will do a bit more research. I haven't even been brewing much as I am in the process of moving house and fermentation temp control is a pain at the moment but I love the tinkering side of things!!
Yeah thats the problem with that box its too small. Ive got everything crammed in there but Im inly using 1 SSr so well done to get 2 in there..lol. Yeah Im a bit off a tinker too. Also built myself a brewpi temp controller that I use with Fermentrack.
 

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