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Very cool 😎

I think you've pretty much got it down. I had a back up siphon just in case the pump got blocked but that was doing a big west coast

I always thought dead space was what was left over after being completely drained from the valve. I filled the kettle a little over the valve and drained it until it stopped. I poured the rest into a measuring cup. I have a diptube pick up now that leaves little behind. I will make a video later...

That is an awesome sightglass!

After looking at the parameters and interface, it seems they have a little way to go as far as user interface goes. Let us know how you get on with it, seems like a nice bit of kit

So looks like after filling it to the top and tuning it, it seems to work alright. Turns off 5 degrees freedom units before the set mark and just lets it rise to where it needs to be (within half a degree F). I tried putting in settings I found on the information super highway initially but the...

Got a video up of the PID setup

Oh right. I find mash temp being overshot often times for me was caused by the element kicking on and off. Insulating the mash tun, running lower wattage (less duty), and recirculating fairly- not too quick- keeps it steady. If you've gotten over the shiny stainless, wrap it in cardboard and/or...

Yes. The position of the sensor causes some discrepancy as the water directly above the heating element reads slightly higher. Try running the pump or stirring during strike and your temps will match the controller. I would recommend getting a temperature pen or something because the Guten isn't...

This is what I should have gotten as it does the same thing my ssvr does. It wasn't until I ordered I realized they had that other stuff!

Actually tbh I have tried to intentionally break it by running it non stop during a boil in numerous brews. To my dismay it keeps going with no evidence of internal scoring (from heated plastic)

Didn't see but there is a serial number: 201609062 The current pump is a mag drive type, just smaller baby version of a chugger. It's a reliable design which I don't see failing anytime soon (under normal usage) and seems quite capable provided you don't send chunks through it

Hey! Managed to get rid of that restrictive unserviceable ball valve with a shiny ss one. Turns out a 15mm Snaplid Clip fits the hex part of the ss ball valve perfectly to support it. Drilled a hole and ran soft washers both sides and a nut w/ a washer. The bottom I replaced with a heavier duty...

I ripped out the old controller and box for a PID, SSR, and SSVR. No reason really. The original controller works just fine. Just felt the need to rip it apart. The PID is a Inkbird brand and the SSR/SSVR is from Auber. I'll post up the schematic after I get it working good. The elements...

Nice. Did you use Beersmith or any type of program to figure out your volumes?

Extended one lead to the switch. May have to redo another lead coming from element to switch since it seems a bit stretched from turning the kettle (to line up with where the malt pipe used to be). Check out my Instagram I have a video of it on there running. Waiting for an SSVR, rheostat, and...

I've been messing around

Next go around I'm going to drain from whirl pool port. Check out this cold break from last session. 12g/L of pellet hops already in this:

Well looks like I had another part fail on me. I was having problems with the control unit shutting off mid boil or for any length of time after any build up of burnt malt. Found the thermo cut off switch attached to the kettle at fault. Bypassed it just to make sure. Picked one up from a dealer...

I thought about doing it this way and it would probably work if you fashioned a copper/ss pipe so it would run down and around and attached it to the recirculation pipe with silicon. I just happened to have a drill and a valve handy from my brewery back home. It wasn't going to cost me anymore...